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[das boot]

Am I correct in thinking that one or two post war Gato class subs were modified with more modern conning tower designs, similar to those found on British O and P class boats? More of a sail than a conning  tower? Anyone tell me if I'm right...I'm sure I read about it somewhere.

Cheers,

Rich

[gingyer]

yes your right
they were called the guppy class
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GUPPY

[das boot]

That's the baby...well done, that man.    Thank you for that, much appreciated.

Cheers,

Rich

[das boot]

I've decided to radically change my Revell Gato, and I need to alrer the bow shape as per diagram..



The standard Gato bow section is the lower one, the one I want to achieve is the top one. Any ideas as how I should go about it guys?

Cheers,

Rich

[Leaky]

if any of you have it on DVD/video watch 'ice station zebra' they use a guppy class (the ronquil?) as the nuke 'tigerfish'

[gingyer]

My thoughts
make a plastic fin to come out of the original bow
to the shape required then "back fill" using filler to get the shape required

[das boot]

That's what I was thinking, although I did think about making the new section out of foam, either that blue foam or expanding polysterene, and then giving it coat of resin to harden it up some.

Thanks Gingyer...any more ideas anyone?

Cheers,

Rich

[das boot]

WellI'll be...just found that video earlier. That's me sorted for viewing tonight then...

Cheers Leaky,

Rich

[Shipmate60]

I would go with gingyer on this one, a forward fin with a few cross frames and filled with P38.
The cross frames to help with the sanding to get both sides exact.

Bob

[Sub driver]

Don't forget this is a plastic kit guys,

Certainly use plasticard frames etc for the bow BUT don't use P38 its too hard and won't bind to the plastic....you need to use the correct PLASTIC filler, ie Humbrol or Revel plastic filler as this will bond to the original plastic hull and the new plasticard bow resulting in a flawless join that will withstand the stress without cracking etc etc

Best Regards Sub. 

[das boot]

Thanks guys, plenty there to think about. I think I favour the plasticard frame idea with plenty of filler added and then sanded to shape. Being the bow section I do need plenty of strength in case I ram a submerged shopping trolley or whatever, so I guess it's the filler road for me then. Good thing I live alone, there's going to be plenty of dust about...

Thanks again gents....

Cheers,

Rich

[Colin Bishop]

It may be worth drilling into the side of the hull and cementing some plastic sprue pegs in at 90 degrees to provide a reinforcement and key for the filler. As you say, you need the modification to be strong.

[Subculture]

I'd use millput to shape the bow. Very tough, waterproof, plenty of time to sculpt it to the right shape, and will bind well with the polystyrene hull.

Andy

[das boot]

Thanks for that gentlemen, very kind of you...I'd forgotten about Milliput, good stuff as I recall.

Cheers,

Rich

[number-1]

Hi, check out subpirates.com, theres a revell gato build on there where the guy has built a fantastic sub for his brother
cheers Les

[Subculture]

If you go for milliput, I'd recommend you use the white version. This is finer and easier to work than the other versions.

Andy

[das boot]

If you go for milliput, I'd recommend you use the white version. This is finer and easier to work than the other versions.

Andy

Thanks Andy, didn't get time to go anywhere near a model shop today [dedicated to duty... ::)] but tomorrow will be a different story!

Cheers,

Rich

[Subculture]

Art shops often sell it too. In fact I find they're more likely to sell it than the local model shop, which becomes more like Toys R Us with every passing year.

Andy