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[Yarpie]

With a multitude of BISMARCK builds going on in this section, I thought it only fair that her Nemesis, HMS RODNEY should get a little feature.

RODNEY was taken off the water late August and has been undergoing refit since. She's a tall old lady, 3 metres, with a pretty large beam. She is currently ten years old. (I've been attracted to that sort for many years, but that IS NOT an accurate description of my wife).

Main focal points of the refit are:

1. Plank the decks. RODNEY (and NELSON) were planked from stempost to stern. However, I am not going to actually plank the decks, but rather scribe their outlines on bare wood. This is a much less expensive and less time consuming procedure, but if done sympathetically, can look impressive.
2. Fit plating to the ships side. RODNEY had a plated hull and the mould that the model came from had not got this important feature. I must stress from the outset that I did not build the model myself, but acquired it a few years ago as HMS NELSON. Hopefully a successful refit will permit me to claim some credit for how it will look. If the refit does not improve the model, well, I bought it from somebody else didn't I, so not my fault guv ??  It is hoped to present RODNEY in her late 1942 configuration, somewhere around 31st October 1942, the date of my birth.

Attached is an image of her last winter, showing the need for some TLC.

Yarpie.

[Perkasaman2]

A couple of news films from Pathe concerning HMS Rodney:

http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=15554

http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=12483

[Yarpie]

As the model splits into two sections for ease of transportation, it seems prudent to start on the forward section first. I feel that this section is not so 'involved' and would present a better learning curve prior to tackling the more complicated aft section.

The image shows some of the damage sustained over two years of pretty regular sailing. The starboard bower anchor has been knocked off and the sheet anchor was never there in the first place. There are no hawse pipes to stow the anchor stocks securely in, just shallow recesses. The gunwhales are showing evidence of collisions (not me Chief .....it's the Corvette drivers wot does it!). The refit will provide rubbing strakes to eliminate this damage in future. And finally, the hurriedly applied paint job will be renewed and improved. The image also shows the cable deck planking painted over in the temporary upper deck camouflage scheme. This only lasted less than six months during 1942. The cable deck only sports two anchor hawse pipes instead of three.

First priority is to remove all of the upper deck fittings, the 16" gun turrets, capstans, winches et al. (Do this carefully and try to retain some of the fittings to use again). Then thoroughly strip all paintwork off hull and upper deck.

Cheers,

Yarpie.

[Yarpie]

Many thanks for the two video links Perkasaman, I hadn't seen either of them before.

Very impressed with the quality of the second one, the bombardment of Alderney.

[Bernd]

iiihh.. HMS Rodney..... Just kidding!

Great model, I especially like the camo on your model!  Please post more pictures!

[Yarpie]

.... as it progresses Bernd, .... as it progresses!

But I would hasten to add, this model refit will in no way be as clinical and accurate as your recreation of the BISMARCK. I shall be using her in 'on the water' pyrotechnic displays, so to rebuild to your excellent standard is not necessary. She also needs to be ready for next year's display season in May, so time is of the essence.

Thank you for your very kind comment.

Yarpie.

[Yarpie]

Hull completely stripped of paint and thoroughly washed down. (I used Nitromors with no ill effect to the fibre glass hull or the plywood decks). Hawsepipes manufactured from 5/16" plastic tubing. Apertures drilled and tubing interference-fitted into the holes. Trimmed to fit. The 'stem' will be completely filled with car body filler to secure the hawsepipes inboard and so that any future accidental damage to the bow section can be easily re-profiled, being a solid lump. Anchors (moulded lead amalgam) dry fitted for effect. (The plating will be located under the anchors and over the existing scuttles {portholes} later).

The cable deck has been brought back to bare wood and awaits the 'planking effect'. The 16" gun platform/forward section aperture stripped to bare wood and a new section of ply surrounds this to complete the upper deck aft of the leading breakwater..

[Yarpie]

Cable deck 'planking' in progress. The red tape marks the end of each plank where it meets the margin plank. It ensures that the ends are 'open' so that they can be 'joggled-in' to the margin plank as is the case on the starboard side. The process seems more tedious than the 100 lines we used to be punished with at school!  As each line is drawn in indelible ink, an accidental curve round a fingertip involves the whole lot being sanded down and started again. The cable deck 'planking' extends up to the first breakwater where a fresh piece of laminate will overlay the existing deck. The rubbing strake (4.8 mm styrene angle) is yet to be positioned around the perimeter of the gunwhales.
A single piece of styrene angle will form the rubbing strake up to the outer extent of the leading breakwater. Aft of that, another piece of styrene angle will lay adjacent to the first, forming a spurnwater beading. A riveted effect is achieved along the length of the rubbing strake by indenting the inner edge with an automatic centre punch, set at the desired pressure of course. The rivets occur at seven per inch so that is a total of 800 rivets each side of the model.

Thanks for looking in.

[Yarpie]

The cable deck with some of its components dry-fitted to evaluate any improvement in looks.

In place, behind the breakwater outline, is the fresh piece of laminate that will form the main deck. This has yet to be 'planked' and stained to suit and the breakwater will disguise the change in contour.

I feel that there is indeed an improvement and that the refit is worth continuing according to plan.

[steve pickstock]

Sweet!

[Bernd]

Hi,

very nice deck illusion! I guess youŽll seal it with a semigloss clear varnish? BTW, are you re-applying the camo once finished with the reconstruction?

Bye!

[unbuiltnautilus]

Hi Yarpie,
The birthdate issue, would not a First World War vessel be more apt??!
Rodney may look a little tatty, but she looks her best in the photo below, taken at Canoe Lake a couple of years ago.  Good luck with the refit.
Alan..

[Yarpie]

Thanks for the comments guys.

Bernd, yes I will be reapplying the camouflage scheme, but it will be more correct. When I threw some paint at it two years ago the effect I achieved was close to her camo pattern but not quite correct. This time it will stand the scrutiny of the most pedantic 'anorak'.  ('Anorak' is a term we use in UK for anybody who studies a subject so deeply as to become a bore).

Alan, thanks for the image, she looks good in silhouette .... hides all the imperfections as you say! But the reference to my birthdate,

ohhhhh! you can be so cutting!! Bet you wouldn't say that to my twin sister Big Bertha.

[Yarpie]

Right, time to start on the tricky bit, the ships side plating and the rubbing strake. The rubbing strake has been 'rivetted' on to the gunwhale. This comprises of 4.8 mm "L" section styrene which has been given a rivetted effect by using an automatic centre punch at small intervals along its length. This creates the illusion of hundreds of rivets. The top row of plating, which butts up to the rubbing strake, is nearing completion whilst the lower row progresses. The top row presents some difficulty where the plating fits over the existing scuttles (portholes). Each hole has to be accurately measured and drilled to fit neatly around the scuttle.

The plating on capital ships is butted up longitudinally, whereas on smaller ships, such as destroyers, there is an overlap at the end of each plate, leading aft.

Below the bower anchor there is a vertical bolster plate, protecting the ships side from damage when hoisting the anchor. The sheet anchor does not have a similar plate as it was used less often.

[Yarpie]

Closeup showing a section of plating offered up to the scuttles to determine whether the holes line up. The plating fits just under the lip of the rubbing strake. Also visible are the guidelines of the lower plating. The plating looks pretty stark against the hull, but will look better once an overall grey primer is applied.

Thanks for looking in and I hope that this 'anorak' isn't boring you too much .......

BTW Alan, good work on your SS OHIO build. Looking very strong and robust. Have you made any headway on how to secure the two destroyers HMS PENN and HMS LEDBURY alongside?

[unbuiltnautilus]

Intrigued by references to Big Bertha, is she single? Attaching destroyers, am considering some sort of '50 pence a go' event at the lakeside, with a nailgun!!

[unicorn]

     

            Big Bertha isn`t she just an unbuilt"Naughty Lass"
                                                         
                                                                                       

[Yarpie]

Very good Unicorn, very good.

[Yarpie]

Plating completed on the starboard side.  Both anchors are now located firmly in their hawsepipes. The angle of both anchors is correct, the angle is shallow. The plating still looks pronounced but allowances have been made so that the final camouflage coat will subdue the whole effect. Just the simple task of the port side to complete.

Thanks for viewing.

[Perkasaman2]

I've 'trawled' another couple of precious 'Pathe' films of this great battleship:

http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=8876

http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=55816

[Yarpie]

Once again Perkasaman, very many thanks for the clips.

Just love the 'very English and very clipped commentary'.

[Yarpie]

View of the forward section, port side, complete with grey primer.  "A", "B" and "X" gun turrets in situ. The plating is still fairly prominent in places on the ships side, but the camouflage pattern will rectify this.  "B" gun turret elevation has been modified, (more later) but the diameter of the barbette is still too small. All three turrets will have their camouflage pattern repainted in alignment with the ships side pattern.

It has taken about two months to get the model to where she is when the image was taken. Longer than anticipated, but some things never change ...... 

Cheers.

Yarpie.

[Yarpie]

There was a distinct 'droop' on RODNEY's "B" turret elevation which needed to be cured.

A quick application of some blue tablets down each spout didn't cure the problem so a mechanical fix had to be applied.

[Yarpie]

'B' 16" gun turret elevation modifications.
To correct the 'droop' it was necessary to determine how it was all constructed. The original model builder could not remember so it was down to trial and error when it came to dismantling the turret.
It transpired that the turret moulding was glued to the baseplate, so the moulding was carefully prised away from the baseplate. Unfortunately part of the baseplate came away with the moulding leaving a large hole.
The barrels were held together with silicone and held down to the baseplates with it as well. Over time the silicone had deteriorated and lifted, letting the three barrels droop.
To overcome the problem, and to bring the elevation of the barrels into line with the other two turrets, a little trestle was made, much the same as the old village stocks. The three barrels would rest on this at their midway point whilst the breech ends of the barrels would be secured firmly to the baseplate. Simple enough. But no, one of the barrels was shorter than the other two so a spacer had to be made for that one in order to keep the barrels horizontally in line.

[Yarpie]

Next task was to align the other barrels fore and aft and at the same elevation as the centre barrel. Meanwhile, the barrels should be in line at the 'business end' with each barrel centralised in the turret cover apertures.

It was simple enough to achieve this and securing the barrels to the platform at the breeches was done by the use of electrical cable clamps. The masonry nail that was supplied with the cable clamps was removed and some well known servo screws inserted instead and screwed to the baseplate. These were then copiously covered in glue and should remain secure.