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[Lt. Raen]

Hi there
    As promised I am finally going to start a build log for the ST Cervia. This is my first scratch built scale model
So I'm sure there will be many trials and tribulations along the way 
progress has and will continue to be slow as I am trying to ensure that I get things right the first time.

Firstly a special thanks to brianB6 for giving access to the plans for this vessel, its much appreciated

Secondly thanks to Bluebird for his wonderful build log and constant assistance provided up until this point,
would have given up before i ever started without the support.

OK and on with the build:

At this point in time I have almost finished sketching all the frames and the keel onto plywood, however i am still
waiting on a propshaft before i cut the keel and the last few frames, hopefully i get the shaft next week.
I have a tamiya 540j motor that i will be gearing down using the mfa Olympus 2.3:1 belt drive. I need a universal
coupling for this, so have to find out the thread size on the belt drive, i suspect its m5 but I'm sure a trip to the
hardware store with drive in hand will give me a definitive answer on that one.
The frames and keel are being drawn up on 6mm marine ply, and I will be planking her in limewood.

Anyway, I was trying to keep this short so I might just throw up some photos of where I am at:
1

The french curve set is a real life saver for copying curves...
2

3

4

5

6

Photo 6 shows the motor mount I have designed for the belt drive system

My major problem at the moment is working out how to get the correct deck camber, I was thinking along the lines of:
7


But do not know whether to stick with a 2mm height at the centre for the length of the vessel and vary the radius of the
camber or keep the radius the same but vary the height? any suggestions on this point?

I know its not much, but any hints and tips, as well as constructive criticism will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Tim

[brianB6]

Two things:-1  I use a very old and basic 540 motor with a 50 mm 3 blade plastic prop and "Colina" almost planes at full speed. (my main problem is getting her to go slow as I am still using a wire wound 40 ohm resistance type controller)
2 Fortunatly there is not much deck, since it needs to curve up at the ends and down at the sides, so what ever way you curve it, it is going to be a problem, as with many tugs.   Probably best to have a dry run at fitting the deck and altering the camber to suit.

[Raen]

So finally something to update on this build, only 12 months behind schedule 

I will post some photos on the weekend when hopefully the weather is a little nicer, however I think i might nearly be up to laying my first plank.

However, I received a propshaft today, at the moment it is 150mm long which is going to be too long. I want to shorten it but am unsure as to how to remove the bronze bushing and refit it after the tube is cut to the correct length.

Any ideas on how to do this?

Thankyou for reading,

Tim

[Norseman]

Hi Tim

I'll tag along with your build and hope to pickup a few tips.

Dave

[Stavros]

Tim it is very easy to do cut the shaft to length, file the end square, use a round fie inside the shaft,to get te old bronze bush out use a nail or a parralel punch if you have one and simply drift the old bush out,fitting it into the shaft is easy,place the bush on the shaft and LIGHTLY tap it into place with the other end of the shaft on the flat of the vice and it will go in easily

Dave

[Raen]

simply drift the old bush out,fitting it into the shaft is easy,

So i have cut the prop tube to the desired length but am having issues removing the bush. I have tried pushing the bush out of the tube with a variety of devices but it hasn't moved at all. can you please clarify what you mean by "drift" the bush out?

Thanks once again,

Tim

[essex2visuvesi]

a drift is made of something softer then the item being drifted.
In this case you would need a length of ally rod small enough to go inside the prop tube but not too smal as to go though the bush.
Insert into prop tube untill it is pressing against the bush then tap with a hammer

[Raen]

Success the aluminium tube did the trick as well as a fair bit of force. In the end I had to file the prop tube around the bush to free it up a bit but it looks nice in the new shortened prop tube. 

Thanks for your help,
I should be posting some pics tomorrow.

Tim

[Raen]

Ok so I finally remembered to take a few pics of my progress. As you will be able to see I havent made a huge amount, just been focussing on getting the frames right so lots of sanding and checking against the plans.
Also recieved the rest of the running gear from ACTION Electronics and Float a Boat so really need to get cracking on the hull now. 

I am also going to try to get thumbnails to display via photobucket so hopefully this works:

[Raen]

Some progress has been made, all the frames just need touching up with some sand paper and they will be ready to be fixed to the building board. The second last frame still needs some cut outs for running gear and the prop shaft needs to be fixed to the keel.







Thanks for reading,

Tim

[Raen]

Sorry for the lack of updates but there hasnt been much to show, mainly just sanding the frames to try and get them just right. 

I have a question regarding the prop tube, I want to secure this in such a way that if I ever needed to in the future I could remove it in case something goes wrong.
Is this possible or is gluing it in completely the only real way to secure it?

Thankyou,

Tim

[John W E]

hi ya

yes, there is a way - it involves using a piece of brass tubing which is the exact fit of the outside diameter of your prop tube - gluing that into the hull first and then sliding the prop tube through the tube which has been glued into the hull and then soldering the prop tube to the brass tube that is fastened into the hull.

So, if it ever requires removal of the prop tube - you just unsolder it from the brass tube.

But, should I say - very rarely prop tubes give any problems - unless they may have been fitted wrongly in the first instance.  The trick is to ensure that the propshaft spins freely in the tube before fitting it and that there are no bends or buckles in the shaft then proceed to fit it - ensuring that no glue gets into the tube or onto the prop shaft and then lubricate the prop shaft using the many varied methods of lubricants available - the choice is yours - and it is well discussed on this forum    and it should run trouble free for years.

If you use the bog standard prop tube and prop shaft where you have the bronze bushes either end; any problems with wear with these they could easily be knocked out and replaced with new ones.

Lets have more pics of you build

aye
john

[Raen]

Hi John, thanks for the quick reply I knew there would be a way to do it I just couldn't think of one. However after reading your post I realise that I probably am just being a bit paranoid so will just glue it in like normal. 

And here are a couple of photos of my recent progress:
         

At the moment the prop tube is not glued in and the shaft clearly needs shortening, however, I am happy that the belt drive and prop shaft do line up quite nicely.
In the event that a motor change is needed after the ship is completed the entire shelf that the belt drive sits on can be removed. The aluminium closer to the bow is going to be used to supper the battery which will be held down using some velcro strip.

Tomorrow I have decided to construct the ACTION electronic components I have as I want to work out where they are all going to fit.
I also quite enjoy soldering pcb boards quite alot. 

Tim

[Raen]

Hello Mayhemers,


An update!


Perhaps this build will break records for the slowest project ever?


After spending many months locked away under the house half planked the Cervia has finally come out of hiding this year and the planking has been completed, the holes and mistakes bogged up and a layer of fiberglass and resin added to the exterior of the hull. This being my first real attempt at fiberglass has led to some interesting events (such as smoking plastic containers  ) and the overall quality of the fiberglass is a little questionable. I shall be completing a final skim coat of resin to fill in a couple of small imperfections before sanding her down and releasing the hull from the building board. This will be a momentous occasion that I am sure my better half has been convinced will never come.


Unfortunately I only get the weekends to work on my project so I do not expect progress to be quick however, progress is progress and it is a wonderful feeling to progress on this. In fact the other half now thinks she will want a Springer to accompany the Cervia when she hits the water (as long as its not a 5 year long project).


Being so close to needing a deck for this hull I have been looking into possible options for timber to use and have come across a ready supply of thin Basswood ply for a reasonable price.


So my first question of my fellow Mayhemers is whether Basswood ply (or even birch ply) makes a suitable decking material and what thickness do you recommend (0.6mm, 1.5mm or 2.5mm)?. should the structure of the wheel house be made of the same thickness material or slightly thinner? and finally how does one seal a deck made from basswood ply assuming it is a suitable material.


I shall upload some photos of the progress in the near future so you can see my terrible workmanship  .


Anyway thanks for taking the time,


Tim

[Brian60]

Sorry to dissapoint on the slowest build - check out Alistair L and his ULCC build - begun in 2009

But I'm looking forward to seeing some update photo's of your Cervia.

[Raen]

Haha thanks Brian, still annoying that it has taken so long but life has found ways to interfere in boat building but I am determined for her to see water before Christmas.


As promised here are some photos of the build in progress.


Overall i am quite happy with how it is coming together despite my skills not always producing the best results however I have found ways to work around these and ultimately its looking like the hull will come out quite nicely. definitely not perfect but it sure will be unique. 

IMG_20151204_082545 by Timothy Budd, on Flickr
IMG_20151204_082536 by Timothy Budd, on Flickr
IMG_20151204_082528 by Timothy Budd, on Flickr
IMG_20160814_161207 by Timothy Budd, on Flickr
IMG_20160814_161157 by Timothy Budd, on Flickr
IMG_20160814_161149 by Timothy Budd, on Flickr