Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[hama]

Hi, I,m currently building a 1/18th scale fairy huntsman to which i,m planking my own teak deck with jellitong corking. can anyone recomend what type of varnish to use or is it better to use teak oil.

[aslo44]

Hi seadog, I'm renovating the same boat at the moment but I used Mahogany instead of Teak (but I think it looks ok)
and I opted for teak oil. I put a couple of coats on as soon as I planked and it's helped to protect the deck during
spraying the hull and stuff. I put some photo's on my post "help and advice needed for huntsman 47" hope this helps you
there are a few doing these boats at the moment so have a look through and you'll get some good advice. Alan

[biggus ditchus]

I cant tell you if its good advice but I can tell you what I did with decking on mine, I used strips of basswood and then stained them with Colron Wood Dye and then yacht varnish applied with a cloth (I started with a brush but didnt like finish, so sanded back a bit and tried cloth).  Happy with results but I have been told its best to use decking that has finish you want rather than staining it to get look you want.

This is mine (photo taken while varnish wet which is why it looks shiny eve though Im using satin finish)

[Watchleader]

Hi Solentseadog.

If you're after the classic high gloss finish, use Rustins Plastic Coating. 
It's a two part mix. It's dries glass hard and and with 3 or so coats rubbed down between with 0000grade steel wool and then brasso the last coat after, you will get a mirror shine on a glass clear finish that is hard wearing, waterproof and it's even heatproof. It's used on floors so will last as long as the boat does. 

Make sure you're happy with the wood appearance before coating as everything will be seen through this surface. 

I am planning a Huntsman 31 as my winter project.

John

[HS93 (RIP)]

Hi Solentseadog.

If you're after the classic high gloss finish, use Rustins Plastic Coating. 
It's a two part mix. It's dries glass hard and and with 3 or so coats rubbed down between with 0000grade steel wool and then brasso the last coat after, you will get a mirror shine on a glass clear finish that is hard wearing, waterproof and it's even heatproof. It's used on floors so will last as long as the boat does. 

Make sure you're happy with the wood appearance before coating as everything will be seen through this surface. 

I am planning a Huntsman 31 as my winter project.

John

I didn't think they made a exterior grade of that product , also I have never seen a Huntsman with gloss decks to that degree I use http://www.ronseal.co.uk/products/outdoor-varnish its a matt silk product and I apply with a lint free cloth or kitchen roll I give it several coats and it gives a realistic look,have a look at Paul RED181 s boat he uses the same on his http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=21584.0

Peter

[tigertiger]

I don't think an exterior grade is essential for me as my boats spend most of the time out of the water, and indoors.
 

[Craig Dickson]

Hi folks

When it comes to planking I think it is critical to point out that the key aspect is to get those planks glued firmly and flat upon the deck surface. Such that there are no gaps between the joints. And such that the surface prior to any finish is as close to perfect as you can get. Aim to rub your finger tips over the bare wood and get no feeling that it is actually planked.

If you achieve that, the rest of the procedure is much easier to complete for a near to perfect finish.

In respect of Teak, it is a naturally well oiled timber thus I suggest it lends itself to an oiled finish.
Teak oil is one option as mentioned. However there are a multitude of alternative oil finishes on the market.

Consider Danish Oil? This tends to darken timber but has the benefit of leaving a satin finish and dries relatively quickly and hard without being sticky.

Finishing Oil is an alternative for a glossy finish and without darkening the natural colour of light timbers.
From my experience in wood turning, oil finishes for me have proved to be my favourite because they are tough and durable. The secret is to ensure in a marine application that the grain of the selected timber is sufficiently well sealed with multiple coats of oil to ensure a smooth and waterproof finish cutting back between coats after they have hardened.

Cheers
Craig

[Craig Dickson]

Just on the finishing oil product:

This photo shows it applied on a bowl that I turned (ok double bowl between supporting spindles).

The white wood is Sycamore, spindles Purpleheart. Purpleheart has quite an open grain. Finishing oil after a few coats sealed it to leave a nice clean glossy finish:



Cheers
Craig

[hama]

 ok2Hey thanks guys for all the tips, i think i,m going with the dainish oil as after talking to a guy who actually owns a 1968 full size boat here on the Isle of Wight, of which kindly let me on board , got some great ideas too. The natural teak deck is just left to weather but after playing around with diferent varnishes and oils the oils look more natural

[hama]

Just thought i would upload some opics to show where i am at the moment

[pugwash]

Very Nice. I like the way the planking is done in angles rather than curved round - very effective look.

Geoff

[aslo44]

I also like the planking it's something diferent. Just make sure twater can't ingress where you've made the joints
and that will look good for a long time to come. Alan

[chombo]

Hi seadog, i am building a huntsman as well. Ii like your segmented front deck it looks really
different wot did you use in between the planks, great job.

chombo

[hama]

Hi I used thin strips of Jelitong as it is very straght grained and easy to cut on my bandsaw. I,m very please with the outcome but it was a little fiddly