Topic: Beginners Build of the Yorkshireman Tug (Read 18826 times)

MikeA · « **Reply #25 on:** October 18, 2011, 04:00:03 pm »

stronger links wouldnt hurt i suppose but then some ppl like to overkill on strength just in case. i think if there are any strength issuses it will be flex in the dog leg

Boughtonfields · « **Reply #26 on:** October 22, 2011, 05:08:47 pm »

Not done that much recently to the Yorkshireman as I've been very busy with work.

Have been looking at mounting the electrics and again need to draw on your expertise...

The action electronics power board has a plug on it to power the receiver.
So, I'm thinking I can just use one pwr switch to turn everything on/off.
However, when I turn on the radio transmitter, it takes a second or two before it 'connects' to the receiver.
So I wondered if it would be safer/wiser to switch the receiver seperately from all the power electronics?

What do you guys do? one switch for everything? or receiver switched seperately?

Also not been able to find anything much stronger than what is already fitted for the rudder linkage, so might just reinforce the dog legs and leave it at that.

DickyD · « **Reply #27 on:** October 22, 2011, 05:21:41 pm »

Mine have one switch for all and all the power off the main battery.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #28 on:** October 22, 2011, 08:52:41 pm »

Quote from: Boughtonfields on October 22, 2011, 05:08:47 pm

However, when I turn on the radio transmitter, it takes a second or two before it 'connects' to the receiver.
So I wondered if it would be safer/wiser to switch the receiver seperately from all the power electronics?

What do you guys do? one switch for everything? or receiver switched seperately?

I only use one switch (as Dicky says) as this is normal. The R/X will search for the transmitter and takes around a few seconds from when it's switched on anyway.

cheers

ken

tt1 · « **Reply #29 on:** October 22, 2011, 11:33:01 pm »

Like the motor mounts, good idea

Enjoyable build, looking forward to future installments.
Rgards, Tony.

Boughtonfields · « **Reply #30 on:** October 23, 2011, 09:46:38 am »

Thanks for the info, one switch it'll be then - will certainly make the wiring easier!

The 25amp cable has arrived (nice ebay bargin!) so I'll see if I can join it all together...

Boughtonfields · « **Reply #31 on:** October 23, 2011, 09:50:28 am »

Thanks Tony,

Really just developed from me wanting a secure box for the battery
(had a couple of accidents with batteries in the past!)
Once the box was in, where the motors went was obvious!

tt1 · « **Reply #32 on:** October 23, 2011, 01:21:24 pm »

I've used a 25amp double pole 3 way switch, on/off/on for my Shamrock, £2.99 from classic cars. One set of terminals used for a fly lead for battery charging in situ, saves a lot of disturbance.

Boughtonfields · « **Reply #33 on:** October 31, 2011, 05:43:16 pm »

Hello All,
Been looking at the wiring of the pwr board, esc, etc this week.
Must admit, the hull looked big when I started, but it's filling up fast with 'stuff'.

The Action electronics all seem to work ok, but the main motors speed control seems a bit 'all or nothing'
With just a little forward (or reverse) throttle, the motors run quite fast.
Measured volts across one motor and the volts go from zero to 6volts with only a tiny movement of the stick.
More stick movement does then give a nice gradual increase in volts (and motor speed)

I'm using the Action P94 in mode 3
Is this initial 'jump' straight to 6 volts normal, or have I missed something in the setup?

ACTion · « **Reply #34 on:** November 01, 2011, 08:46:14 am »

The P94 you had is no different from any other and does not require any setting up to adjust the starting speed/acceleration curve. If you have a computer radio then make sure that both channels used are set up to 100% servo movement and have no mixing, exponential or differential movement programmed in.
DM

Boughtonfields · « **Reply #35 on:** November 01, 2011, 09:46:14 pm »

Ok, Thanks for that.
I'd read the instructions several times so didn't think there was anything else to set.

I've had a look at the radio (an Optic 6) and can't find anything to account for the problem.
However, there are lots of settings to play with - most of which I don't really understand!

Does anyone have an Optic 6 with a similar setup so we could compare settings?

Boughtonfields · « **Reply #36 on:** November 02, 2011, 08:44:32 pm »

My head is hurting trying to make sense of all the radio's settings, so I think I'll put that one on the back burner for now!

The model had it's first 'sea trial' this evening (ok - I put it in the bath!)

Was very pleased at the complete lack of leaks considering the number of holes I've drilled in it!
One thing was immediately obvious - she's seriously underweight!
I thought it would be fine with the battery in it, but it'll need a lot of weight front and back.

I'll have to mark the waterline properly and then add some weight (back in the bath)
I guess lead is the obvious choice, but wondered what you guys would recommend?

MikeA · « **Reply #37 on:** November 02, 2011, 08:50:40 pm »

I Used fish tank gravel. cheap as chips it was! I was going to use the old fish tank gravel but the smell was a bit realistic

you could use bottles of water

Norseman · « **Reply #38 on:** November 02, 2011, 09:55:47 pm »

Maybe you could make some of the ballast work for you - batteries I mean

Norseman

Boughtonfields · « **Reply #39 on:** November 06, 2011, 03:44:09 pm »

I see why you suggest extra batteries...

I've marked the water-line and set sail in the bath again to get an idea of the ballast I need.
Sufice to say I'm a little suprised!

Balancing various bits of lead, big spanners, tins of grease etc in the bow & stern, it looks like I'm going to need something like 2.5kg in the bow and around 2kg in the stern!

This sounds like an awful lot of weight - does nearly 5kg of ballast sound normal for this tug?
(that's almost two more batteries!)

Norseman · « **Reply #40 on:** November 07, 2011, 04:21:31 am »

You need an answer from someone who has done it before my friend - I haven't and it was just an idea I had because I think tugs like power

Regards Dave

crzydoyle11 · « **Reply #41 on:** November 13, 2011, 02:31:44 pm »

hey there Boughtonfields, looking at your last post on the York. I am also building the York, when I was adding ballast to the strain\rear of boat I also added what seem to be allot of ballast I am from the USA not to up on kg. but in US scale I add about 2.5 Ibis so I am guessing by your post I would say that is right, After all we have to get the Tug to set on the water line. Also we do not put a 1968 Buick inside on the boat; LOL.. we should be good with the wight need to make the tug site right in the water..
Keep the photo's coming along love to see her done..

one more thing TIP AS FEAR AS ballast go's if you can I put the ballast need it in the middle boat if you can. I only stay this because when I was looking at a earlier build on the York a man Had a video of it in the water, and when he made turns on the boat it look like it was almost in the water. Come to find out he added his ballast on the sides and also may have to much steerage on the rudders so be-carfull on that as well.. good luck keep the good work up there shipmate..

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #42 on:** November 13, 2011, 03:15:04 pm »

Quote from: Boughtonfields on November 06, 2011, 03:44:09 pm

I see why you suggest extra batteries...

This sounds like an awful lot of weight - does nearly 5kg of ballast sound normal for this tug?
(that's almost two more batteries!)

Hi there,

That is quite a nominal weight, so don't worry. Sometimes I have to use three 7amp/Hr batteries to get her down to the marks. These are quite heavy.

The more 'stuff' you fit in the boat, the less batteries are needed. Smoke generators full of water can also be heavy.

ken

Boughtonfields · « **Reply #43 on:** November 13, 2011, 05:49:35 pm »

Thanks for the help & encouragement guys!

Been a bit quiet on the build lately as it turns out I have the wrong motors

Thanks to Dave from Action Electronics, who has been a huge help, I've ordered the correct ones.

Once here I'll get them in and the tug roughly ballasted and I'll then be able to make some more progress.

On the ballast front, I found some divers ballast at the boot fair.
It's lead balls approx 2mm dia - so I'll be able to get quite a bit of weight in a small space & keep it low down.

Might not get much more done this year as November is very busy then I'm off to Oz for 2 months!
All the same, I'll keep you posted...

MikeA · « **Reply #44 on:** November 13, 2011, 06:05:57 pm »

as your your first are you enjoying it? have you got the bug yet?

Boughtonfields · « **Reply #45 on:** November 13, 2011, 09:23:04 pm »

Most definately enjoying it (so far!)

I guess I'm a little bit frightened of getting somthing wrong now, that I can't undo later.
So, I'm a bit obsessed with making sure the bit I'm on is absolutely right, before I move on.
I'm sure this slows the build down and it'll take me 10 times longer than it should.
But I shan't worry about speed and just take my time,

You know what they say - Can't rush a good job....

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Author Topic: Beginners Build of the Yorkshireman Tug (Read 18826 times)

MikeA

Boughtonfields

Boughtonfields

Boughtonfields

Boughtonfields

ACTion

Boughtonfields

Boughtonfields

MikeA

Boughtonfields

crzydoyle11

Boughtonfields

MikeA

Boughtonfields