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[broger]

Hi All
I thought you might like to see how I’m getting on with building the Alaska Steam Launch.
I was the one who resurrected Miranda and didn’t have clue how to start but with kind help of the forum I got the hull finished.
But I’m afraid that building a boat from someone else’s plans and a boat that has been made
beautifully by others, left me thinking that I wanted to do build something that had not been done before.
So I picked the Steam launch Alaska. You can see her from this website
http://www.thames-steamers.co.uk/
I lived in Windsor for 51 years and have seen her steaming along and thought what a beautiful boat.
So having contacted the owner I found out that he had four sheets of plans with the basic dimensions on, unfortunately he did not wish to post them to me in Wiltshire in case they got lost
So I arranged with a company close to the Alaska office to have them copied. That was a mistake as I got 4 photos of the plans at a cost of £50.00.
They did however give us an understanding of the shape and dimensions.
Now I say us because of the wonderful work done by Greg Simpson (gondolier88).
I sent him a copy of the pictures and he produced the shape in Delftship. Without this I would not have got off the ground.
I then used a program called 2d design and with a DFX output from Delftship I could produce the lines for the Ribs.

 



From this I was able to produce the ribs in cardboard to test the shape.



Now I should explain at this point that I am very privileged to have a part time job as a technician at a technical college that has a laser. This enabled me to cut out a perfect rib.
Some may say that this is cheating but you still have to have the skill to use it.
So after getting it right in cardboard I made all the ribs out of MDF, they'e going to be junked after so did not wish to waste good wood.
 



I'll show you how the planking and the keel went later

[Misty]

Fantastic looking boat, can you give us a clue to the scale and what steam plant you will be using?
David

[broger]

Thank you David
It's 1/12 so it's 60" long
I’d like to put the D10 in because it’s the best look alike of the original but with Stuart in disarray I'm ether going to built it bespoke or get it from America.

[broger]

The next part of the job was to make the keel, this had a problem in that using 3/8" mahogany I would have to drill a 6mm through 14” . The solution you can see in the picture below





I used two pieces of 3/16 mahogany and ran a 6mm bullnose cutter along the length.
Fitted the outer housing for the shaft and glued the two halves together.  Job done.



Now for the planking. This was done with 1/8 x 1/2 mahogany.




















That’s me up to know, I’ve drawn the inside ribs just need to cut them out and fit.

[Patternmaker]

Looking good Alan.

Mick

[kno3]

The hull looks super. How did you manage to build it so fast?
By the way, what did you do to prevent the wooden strips to stick to the ribs you've built the hull on?

[broger]

Thank you Mick.
Thank you kno3
The hull took about 3 weeks over Christmas and only because I had it in the dining room, very understanding wife that knows I hate the cold!
MDF has a fibrous edge and allows it to release easy if you happen to get glue in between. If you look close you can see black lines where some
of the ribs became attached but easily released.
I shall be painting it after its sanded down and coated with resin.  

[Misty]

Working in the Dining Room what a wonderful idea. I am sure if you formed a new political party you would be Primeminister at the next election.

You have my vote.

regards
David

[Patternmaker]

Alan, as a suggestion why not varnish above the water line as your stealer planks are below, it would be a shame to
paint that nice mahogany.

Mick

[broger]

Thank you Misty
You made us laugh
The one saving grace is that the table is glass and can't get scratched
It was also covered with a very thick plastic Cloth.
and was comming up for Christmas 

Hi Mick
Yes your right but I'm making a scale model and it has to be painted as per the original
I'm just glad you think I made a good enough job of it. thanks.

[ooyah/2]

Thank you David
It's 1/12 so it's 60" long
I’d like to put the D10 in because it’s the best look alike of the original but with Stuart in disarray I'm ether going to built it bespoke or get it from America.

Alan,
What do you mean by "bespoke " or get one from "America "
George.

[broger]

Hi George
sorry I mean design and make one myself that looks like the origanal, or fabricate one from Stuart plans.
but as it happens I've decided to get the 2v-10m from tinypower
It looks very much like the Stuart D10 but it's cheaper and available.

http://www.tinypower.com/store.php?crn=56&rn=318&action=show_detail

Alaska's engine



You can see the resemblance

[ooyah/2]

Thanks Alan,
I didn't know of this engine maker but twin engine looks good, no guessing where the design came from.
Can you say what the final cost will be including shipping costs?
Do we have to pay an import tax from U.S.A. ?
it can't be far off the Stuart prices for a D10, if you can find a set of castings at present.

It will be of interest to know.
George.

[Misty]

When I used to import from the US I used Dollars for Pounds as a yardstick this usually covered shipping and customs charges. It might pay you to contact Martin Baylis of MHB fame he is developing a new 2 cylinder engine which is supposed to be more realistic than the old PB2.
regards
David

[broger]

Hi George
I'd just like to say how good two saltires look fluttering in the breeze, my dad was from Ardrie & coatbridge (coatbrig)
I'm not sure about import but the cost of the casting, which include the reversing gear, is £239 + £49.00 postage
Yes it's a bit more money but I didn't want to wait for Stuart to get there act together and I think it look lovely in bronze.

Hi David, I'm sure your right but I've bitten the bullet and put in my order.
I don't know if any one else has experience of the engine?

Alan

[broger]

My way of getting the sides flat and parallel




Fitted a few ribs to allow me to sand the hull down and get it painted (sorry mike)

[gondolier88]

She's looking lovely now you've started to fair it, are you sticking with those frames or are you going to make some mahogany ones?

Greg

[logoman]

that's a beauty of a hull you've built. 

[Norseman]

Hi

I've been following your build - you've created a very nice hull for a lovely subject.
I'm interested in how you will form the canopy (but I'm happy to just wait and see )

Dave

[broger]

Hi Greg
I was going to as you won't see them, are you going to tell me something ?   

Thank you logoman, thats kind of you.

Hi Dave
Not sure myself yet, I tend to plan as I build.
I will have a better Idea when I get to sail in her Thurday week.
She is going into dry dock for a couple of weeks and the owner has invited me on.
it will be the first time and I'll spend most of it measuring and taking pictures.

She is going to be in the queens flotilla.

[gondolier88]

No, not to worry, just a little bit of a shame to put plywood into such a beautiful mahogany hull, but if your'e happy and sure no-ones going to see them then ply it is!

It will be interesting to see what fabric you use for the canopy- there may be a tea towel going missing in a kitchen somewhere near you...!

Greg

[broger]

Thanks Greg,
we have a big school canteen !
I know what you mean about the ply but the mahogany split across the grain and I didn't trust it.
All the other wood will be the same as Alaska, not sure what it is yet but it's lighter.
I Decided to put the ribs in whole but they will all be cut later
You can see from the top view that there is double skin for the walkway all the way round
I hope your wife and new baby are well

Alan

[gondolier88]

Alan,

They're both doing great thanks, not had much sleep the past couple of nights so if you've got any spare send some in the post will you.

P. Freebody's did the new upperworks on Alaska, and they tend to use Teak for most fitting out, sometimes replaced by Honduras Mahogany where cost is of a greater consideration.

Alaska certainly looks like she has teak uperworks. Close grain red cedar is a good scale representation of teak, and a damn sight cheaper too.

Greg

[broger]

Brilliant info Greg
Thanks

[broger]

O.K. you get to me, the ply will go and either oak or teak for the ribs
What helped was this article in the classic boat magazine from 1992
Ply would not do it justice.

http://www.peterfreebody.com/downloads/Classic_Boat_Issue50_1992.pdf

I'd like to get an air brush for painting the hull
Could anyone recommend one?