Topic: My Krick Victoria - MkII (Read 107136 times)

muleears · « **Reply #100 on:** September 08, 2012, 05:52:50 pm »

As usual thanks for the advice gents, good advice all. Now another question. I'm getting ready to begin planking the engine room floor. Can I take a little artistic license here and do something different? For example, can I plank it horizontally (across the beam) instead of lengthwise? Or, better yet, can I do two diagonals meeting in the middle? Or mixing in some wood of different shades? What say you all? Thanks again, I know I will get some great suggestions!

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #101 on:** September 08, 2012, 06:14:59 pm »

Hi Cal, personally, I don't think horizontal planking would look good at all. Diagonally from the center line would look better, with a king plank down the middle to work from, alternate planks of contrasting timber would also look nice. Accurate work would be the order of the day to get it looking right.
Keep up the good work,
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #102 on:** September 13, 2012, 09:31:44 pm »

I took your advice Nick, what do you think? This is unsanded and unfinished.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #103 on:** September 13, 2012, 10:27:05 pm »

Very nice, I think you have the balance just right, alternate planks may have looked a bit too 'stripey', 5 and 1 looks just right, wish I could get my woodwork as neat as that....
Thanks for the photo,
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #104 on:** September 14, 2012, 08:49:05 pm »

What about stain for the floor? Do most of you leave it the natural color or add some color of some sort? And what about 'weathering' or 'antiquing' of the deck and floor area? Anyone have any suggestions or pointers?

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #105 on:** September 14, 2012, 08:56:36 pm »

Hi Cal, you have to be very careful with weathering and antiquing, It is very easy to over do it. Personally, I leave as is after varnishing and let it age naturally. Whatever you do, try it on some scrap first until you get the result you are looking for. Job's coming along nicely, have you got the engine sorted yet?
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #106 on:** September 15, 2012, 01:00:24 pm »

Why didn't somebody tell me

I left one of the mahogany strips out when I finished the deck

Well, I'll cover it with a crate or something because I can't fix it...

Well Nick... as I think I mentioned before, the engine/boiler/fuel tank/condenser setup has me somewhat intimidated. I thought I would get the floor in then see how everything fit. I know I need to get the major parts located and worry about plumbing them later. I haven't found a mounting plate yet either. I have a source for brass sheets but I don't have the tools to turn the edges up satisfactorily. I may seek out a metal fabricator locally and see what they can do.

Today I plan on planking the forward portion of the floor. This time I hope to put ALL the mahogany in the right place

..... Also, should I plank over the 'knockout" for the motor or just plank around it?

The area inside the red box is the motor knockout.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #107 on:** September 15, 2012, 03:44:59 pm »

Hi Cal, , Originally, I planked the whole engine room floor and then had to cut out the knockout patr as the engine didn,t line up with the shaft, and therefore had to be mounted on the slant, so a careful bit of thinking and pre planning is needed. I sugest placing the deck in the hull and sitting the engine in position, you will then get an idea if it will line up ok. I think I posted some pictures of the engine mounting process in one of my threads, or I could have put them here on yours.
Keep at it mate, it will soon be done..
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #108 on:** September 15, 2012, 04:01:26 pm »

Think and plan.... Hah! My entire life would be different if I thought and planned! That is good advice though, I'll test fit the floor in and see if I can get the engine and prop shaft to line up somewhat close. Wish me luck.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #109 on:** September 15, 2012, 04:22:26 pm »

Best of British luck old chap.... and remember the 6 P's, Prior Planning Prevents P**s Poor Performance

muleears · « **Reply #110 on:** September 15, 2012, 04:39:04 pm »

Well, here is a ROUGH approximation of what I'm up against. Very tight fit. I think using the same universal joint you did will save me at least an inch. Any advantage to turning the boiler around? Suggestions are welcome!

muleears · « **Reply #111 on:** September 15, 2012, 05:30:31 pm »

A few more pics with the bulkhead in. Also a pic with a 15" X 3.5" aluminum door push as a tray. I could get a brass door push the same size and it would look much better. (If it will work)

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #112 on:** September 15, 2012, 05:58:50 pm »

Hi Cal, you need to get everything further back, that coupling looks very long, you could also shorten the shaft a bit ( I took about half an inch off mine) have a think about making a disk and pin coupling, saves loads of space and looks much better. If you have too much weight forward, you run the risk of your boat being bows heavy. Try and get everything as compact as possible and as far back as you can and all will be ok.
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #113 on:** September 16, 2012, 01:17:24 pm »

Here are some pics with everything in the boat (except the condenser). I think I have it moved back as far as I can without moving the shaft (stuffing box). I have it all resting on my aluminum door push, it seems to fit rather well. I will use a brass one but this is a trial run, so to speak. Do I have enough clearance between everything? I know I want the fuel tank near the burner, but how close is too close? I will try your disk and pin method for a coupling. I'll order my Meccano wheels today. Will they fit the crank and prop shafts? Do they have set screws? Thanks again for all the help.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #114 on:** September 16, 2012, 03:26:47 pm »

Hi Cal, the meccano wheels come with 2x 5/32 whitworth grubscrews, you may have to pass a 3/16 drill through the bore to make it fit the shaft, I cant quite remember, I know there there isn't much in it.
Lookin good so far,
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #115 on:** September 17, 2012, 05:54:46 pm »

I just sent an email to Meccano about the parts I need for the Victoria. Paypal was acting up so they told me to send them an email and they will send me a Paypal invoice direct. Very nice of them.

If the Meccano bits don't work I think I"ll try this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#flexible-shaft-couplings/=jbzqmv It appears that it would work. It might not look original but....

I'll post a pic later tonite but I'm beginning to think my door push plate may work as a engine/boiler/gas tank tray. I've figured out how to mount the engine, now I just need to fab a way to align the two shafts. I'm thinking of a bend in the plate between the boiler and the engine which will allow the downward angle I need.

When (and how) did you mount the parts 67 and 68 (I think thats the numbers)? The two parts above and below the propshaft outside of the hull. Did you inlet them so the shaft 'sunk in' or did you just sandwich it between the two and use a filler to smooth it off?

Thanks as always.

Cal

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #116 on:** September 17, 2012, 06:28:11 pm »

Hi Ca, lfit parts 68 and 70, one above and one below the shaft, then add parts 72 (found on sheet 5, 2mm ply) one either side, the shaft will then be encased, no need for filler except to fair in where the skeg meets the hull. Some interesting couplings on the Mcmaster site
Regards,
Nick

muleears · « **Reply #117 on:** September 20, 2012, 12:39:13 am »

A few more pics of the proposed engine, boiler, gas tank setup. I may have to move it all forward a little more than shown, depending on how much space my coupling takes up. Remember the aluminum plate is just my template, if it works it will be replaced by a brass plate of the same dimensions. I'm placing this based on the location of the prop shown on the plans, if there is any play allowed there I may have some more room. I plan, as Nick suggested, to shorten the prop shaft, but not until I'm sure of the length. I'm also wondering if I am allowing enough clearance between each, especially the gas tank and boiler. In the meantime, I have finished planking the engine room floor and have several coats of poly on it. My door push/engine mounting plate will not have a lip around the edge, will this be a condensation problem? The angle that the two shafts meet at appears to be about 15*, if I can get this down to below 10* will that be sufficient?

Lots of questions, I know, but I don't want to commit to something that won't work. THANKS as always.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #118 on:** September 20, 2012, 12:53:32 am »

Hi Cal, looking good, gas tank is ok near the burner, the radiant heat will help the gas vaporize in cold weather. A lip around the bed plate will help contain any mess ( oil, Oily water etc ) so you are alright on that score.Try and get the alignment of the shafts as straight as possible, it will cut down on noise and vibration and make for a neater job.
Looking forward to seeing the finished job,
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #119 on:** September 20, 2012, 04:25:01 pm »

Plumbing question... What size fittings do I use with 5/32 tubing? These blasted pipe, fitting and thread sizes still confuse me. I want to use 5/32 throughout (if I can) so what size fittings do I need to order?

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #120 on:** September 20, 2012, 06:30:17 pm »

Hi Cal,The threads on your boiler are 1/4 x 40 tpi These are ME (Model Engineer) threads. The pipe work threads on your PMR engine are in MPT ( Modelers Pipe Thread ) they are the same as the UK ME threads but are slightly tapered so your PMR fittings will have this thread. They do sell adapters, so assuming you have the same basic setup as my PMR engine, you will need an adapter to connect 1/4 x 40 ME to 3/16 MPT and some 1/4 x 40 ME nuts and nipples for 5/32 pipe. If you have trouble getting 1/4 x 40 ME pipe fittings, I have included a link to the chap I get mine from. Here.s a photo of the way my engine is set up.
Give me a shout if you have any problems and I will do my best to advise,
Regards,
Nick

http://www.steamfittings.co.uk/asp/index.asp

muleears · « **Reply #121 on:** September 20, 2012, 11:19:03 pm »

A couple pics of what I can put together so far. The T and the lubricator are both from PM Research, so they have compatible threads. I have a bunch of 5/32 brass and copper tubing with which to plumb this but none of it is threaded. Won't I need a die to thread all my piping? Shouldn't it be a 3/16-40? Or do I have my terminology wrong? I should be able to plumb most of my setup with what I have. Won't I only need the adapter to connect my 5/32 tubing to the boiler?

The burner for my boiler already has tubing soldered to it but it is smaller, I believe 1/8". The gas tank is a Macsteam also, so I assume it has the same thread as the boiler?

Below are two views of the lubricator and where it will be mounted.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #122 on:** September 21, 2012, 12:12:34 am »

Hi Cal, to connect your boiler stop valve to the T on the engine, you will need an adapter, from PMR to suit the thread in the T on one side and 1/4 x 40 on the other, ( Ask PMR, that's where I got mine from), 2 x 1/4 x 40 pipe nuts and 2 x 5/32 pipe ferrules. follow the links for examples of what you are looking for.

http://www.steamfittings.co.uk/asp/d-no.asp?ProductID=99&Process=

http://www.steamfittings.co.uk/asp/d-no.asp?ProductID=101&Process=1

Bend your copper pipe to suit and slip a nut over each end ( make sure they are the right way round ) then silver solder a ferrule on to each end of the pipe and you are done. The chap at PMR knows Maccsteam boilers, so he will probably have everything you need, it's worth a phone call. It is a bit tricky trying to explain as your American fittings are slightly different to ours. I will take some pictures tomorrow to make things a bit clearer.
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #123 on:** September 21, 2012, 05:52:31 am »

Some pics of the "alternative" universal joint that arrived in the mail yesterday from Mcmaster-Carr. Interesting, its stiffer than I thought it would be. It should be easily able to take the stresses of our application. Just thought I'd post this for all to see close up.

Cost was $13.00 + shipping, less than $20 total with shipping (within US).

derekwarner · « **Reply #124 on:** September 21, 2012, 06:39:41 am »

Cal....I have seen these engines in a maroon color and a dark green & they look fine, however it is hard to beat gloss black & gold hightlights as you have displayed

..... especially if you combine the same scheme for your boiler, gas tank & de-oiler etc ....Derek

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Author Topic: My Krick Victoria - MkII (Read 107136 times)