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[B.B]

Hi guys, have been around boats all my life and helped my Father build a 68' prawn trawler in the late 70's and have been fishing on our boats in the Gulf Of Carpentaria and refitting them ( jack of all trades master of none)up untill midd 09 when we sold our last boat, I have made a few models over the years while at sea ,but this is the first build in 7-8 yrs. Not that fast, started this build at the start of June, the motor and electrics arrived from Cornwall Model boats 2day ,I can see why every one installs or pre fits the running gear before the deck gos on. With the glue (Selleys Super Glue)what glue do you guys use, hopfully I am on my last one  now at 62 tubes, I wasn't game to ask Bunnings if they would sell it in the box as they would think I was a habitual glue sniffer , nearly forgot ,yes I have put 2 coats of Fibreglass resin inside , none on outside just oil base enamels.......

[derekwarner]

BB.. all sort of as expected.......brilliant building skills.....& good to see our OZ spirit accepted 
I have a personal dislike for superglue .......[1986 new SUPER glue from USA locks the eye of Australian naval defence supervisor] 
Polyurethane glues have been my choice over conventional PVA  [white glue].........
Keep the build images flowing.....you are doing a great job ......   Derek[/color]

[B.B]

Hi there Derick I presume you can get from Bunnings? I never use PVA glue as its not what you call waterproof. Will put some more photos of the build up, first photo getting an even inside line around the raise deck cover strip,and for my decking pitch seams I using a plastic cover off a folder, just have to make sure you sand both sides well for the glue to stick, then starting on the raise deck area, and fitting the last decking filler before skimming off the plastic strips, then a view of the raise deck with a light coat of estapol (when I say light coat I like to thin the first coat of estapol or varnish with turps, sinks in and drys fast for a base especially when using undercoats etc )next photos are of the main deck area, and then start of the false deck area at the stern as to be able to get to the steering gear, and decking the false deck, the last photo showing bits n pieces for the start of the wheel house frame........will send photos in couple of post.

[B.B]

2nd lot of photos

[missyd]

FANTASTIC work!!!! I wish I could build my models as clean and highquality as you can!

[Peter Fitness]

I use ZAP superglue (cyanoacrylate or CA), in both the thin and thick forms. It's available from most model shops or can be bought on-line. Exterior grade PVA is fine too, but I always coat the inside of the hull with resin to waterproof it, and often the outside too. I have never had a problem with water affecting the wood but, when you think about it, unlike full sized boats, our models are only in the water for a very short time.


Peter.

[old shrimper]

FANTASTIC work!!!! I wish I could build my models as clean and highquality as you can!

you aren't the only one, you should see the rest of his collection 

[B.B]

Thanks there Missyd,  hi Peter is the ZAP super glue you use pretty much the same as what I'm using ?, the cheapest place I,ve been able to purchase it is at Bunnings in a double pack at $3.78.
Well here's some more photos, the first is work or play area, this is a good example of why you don't throw any thing away,well most things, my 2 work benchs are the old solar panels we took off the house last year ,one sitting on an old burnt out deep freezer we had on one of the boats and a prawn washer sitting under the other one, then starting to fit the wheelhouse 2gether, then the wheelhouse's back awning going together, then the hull with it's first of 3 coats of primer over the thinned out coat of estapol, then cutting out the side awnings, I miss my band saw,I use 1.5mm ply for all my superstructures etc, haven't got into the plastic card or what ever its called yet, then the hull and the wheelhouse, making it so as when it is lifted off also the trawling A frame will be attached coming off all 2gether to be able to get to the battery storage area directly under the wheelhouse, then a photo of the brine box this will have a sorting tray lid on top of this, this will also lift off so as to be able to get to the motor and shaft coupling etc.
The last photo shows the style of the A frame gantry for trawling with the boats in the early days had as they were only towing 1 large net, ,note the wheelhouse's side awning, I made a mistake, didn't take enough notice of the shape of this from the photo I had to go by, so I had to splice another piece into it to obtain the correct shape , as they say measure 2wice cut once, its pretty right ?......

[B.B]

Next 5 photos

[hammer]

If your workshop was in England the model would be blown away & the floor flooded. Love it. Geoff

[Peter Fitness]

Brian, the glue I use is this. I used to get it from Tower Hobbies, but lately I buy it locally (The North Coast Hobby Centre, in Lismore) as the freight from the USA has become too expensive. I keep it in the fridge, as it goes hard after a while if you don't, especially in the warmer weather.


Peter.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCX50&P=ML
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCX42&P=ML

[B.B]

Hi Geoff sounds like you are or have had some extreme weather, its been great here around the 26 deg C now about 29 will start to heat up a bit here now. Hi peter gees thats a lot better than what I've been forking out for it ,oh well live and learn.
Well here go's some more photo's to bore you with first one cutting out the life rings ( still miss my band saw) , then skimming down the thickness of the ply for the bucket holder frame, next is the bucket holder,life rings and carly raft less their ropes, then undercoating the trawl winch, navlight box's, fairleads etc. Starting to undercoat the inside of the bulwarks (can you guess the colour) ,there was a large percentage of Brunswick Heads boats painted Orange , our boats were white and grey then later white and blue, then a few more pieces going under the brush, and the hull getting another  undercoat on her bottom, and the last is of an oil feeder pipe soldered into the stern tube, the threaded valve will have a cap and air breather attached, I used an old shrouder valve out of an old FDC unit off the boat and removed the centre out of it ........           

[B.B]

remainder of these photo's.

[hammer]

One thing that annoys me with planked decks. Modellers read about 3 planks between joints on a frame, ok but then they use planks all the same length.   This results in a diagonal pattern across the deck, not real looking to me. I am glad you know the proper way yours look great. Geoff 

[B.B]

Hi Geoff, yeah you never see parallel joints on decking I don't think Survey would allow it like, on hull planking on the real deals the joints have to be staggered quiet a few feet apart, but I must admit it is tempting to use just one run of decking without cutting a perfect length of plank up.

[B.B]

Hi again, some more photo's,first shot is of the back bone of the rudder, next stern tube with it's oil feeder and breather,next photo of the rudder sides (skimmed one side of the ply for both sides) then the nearly finished rudder, still has a s.s shaft to be placed in the bottom of rudder it will swivel in a copper pipe that has been placed in the heel. Next hand rails soldered in position, prior to being cleaned up and the round copper flanges for the feet and after they are soldered on, and the last shot of the stern tube fitted and secured in position....

[B.B]

remainder of photos

[old shrimper]

hi BB
you may wont to put a guard over the end of the stuffing box to stop grease /oil flying round the nice buildges
cheers

[B.B]

Oh well Bob, it will only throw out in one direction (reverse) at this stage till I can get you to fine tune my RC .....

[B.B]

Hi, back again,showing it's overhead rigging attached to the A frame now attached to the w house awning( as it will all lift off 2gether), shot of the w house and bits n pieces.
Start of the boat's stand, bits n pieces for the stand, the base I use a chopping board (new one), cut and shape the sides. the 2 pieces that look like over size paddle pop sticks that the Doctor would enjoy sticking down your through while you said Arrrrrh will have the models's name on these, then the model stand less the name tags, then painting the outside edge of the deck's cover strip ( no , not using orange Vegemite), then the w house with most of it's fittings on it and it's windows installed, next the battery holder for the 12 V battery, then showing where the battery holder lives under the w house , positioned in the beafiest section of the boat roughly  1/3 from the bow, and the last photo with her bottom painted, catch you later.......

[B.B]

remainder of this session.

[mark w]

Very cool. It gets better and better 


Mark

[B.B]

Thanks  Mark, glad you like it.......

[hama]

Absolutly fantastic work!! Thanks for showing!
Hama

[B.B]

Hi back again,thanks Hama, well decided to knock up a set of 7' x3' trawl boards the size she use to tow (5 1/4" x 2 1/4" ) made from ply,limewood,copper & brass, showing all the copper straps drilled and cut out, then attaching the back pulling points, next shot showing 1 board completed the other with it's fixed spider (pulling point) & wear shoe to be fitted, next the finished items, then the trawl boards painted with the made up light shades and the nav lights made from copper and brass ready to be painted.
Next shot showing the hull, starting to install the go go gear, next the battery box with the motor base (motor MFA 919D   540 type 6:1 red) and with the rudder servo frame, next showing the underside of these items, should be strong enough, and the last photo of the rudder servo and arms installed.......