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[radiojoe]

I do like these extra touches of detailing it doesn't matter if it can hardly be seen you know it's there and you've enjoyed doing it,
Great stuff.   

[longshanks]

Thank you to all who have been keeping an eye on this project 

Well it's the turn of the aft fuel compartment today, again only visible through a 9mm diameter circular hatch situated right above the ladder.
 Components






Three of the five fuel tanks, again access problems mean I can only model part of the compartment but it won't show . . .
The pipes furthest from the ladder are for venting and sounding the tanks. The other set is for filling.



My method of constructing the ladder






The finished product









As a point of interest these boats carried 5000 gallons in two compartments, the cost of filling them up in todays money would be £27,236 for which you would get approx 400 miles at 30 knots !!!
Think I might start the superstructure next while I ponder what if anything I'm going to do with the engineroom.
 Whilst I'm thinking about it does anyone have any pics / plans of the charthouse? There were local mods carried out I know. The plans I have show only one door from the charthouse onto the stbd deck, the pic at the top clearly shows a door on the port side
 
Oh and here's one I prepared earlier

Note to self ! When using the hot air gun to speed up the paint drying.
A) Keep it further away.
B)Keep it moving
 
 
Thanks for looking in
 
Kev

[ballastanksian]

Oh well, at least you recovered the situation and probably made it better the second time around? Brilliant to see how much fuel was sloshing around in these machines. 5000 gallons!

[longshanks]

Time for an update.
 I needed to make a stand to hold the hull whilst working on it. Added complication that it needed to hold the hull with the waterline horizontal and level across the boat. This is due to the fact that many of the lines are parrallel or perpendicular to the water line.






Then on to the engineroom trunk cabin, formed out of plastic card
I asked sometime ago about small clamps with mixed results. Bought these on ebay, about £2 for 50, brilliant! They can be bent , shortened etc.




Thanks for looking in
Hope you all have a good New Year
 
Cheers Kev
 

[longshanks]

Forming the chartroom/bridge sides today. . .
It occured to me that perhaps everyone dosen't know how to scribe into the deck sheer, I fit kitchens for a living so its something I'm doing all the time cos builders can't build level or upright
So at the risk of boring you I thought I take some pics of my progress.
 
The first thing to do is level the top edge, this should be parrallel with the waterline. the way I do this is to se the boat up level i.e. in its stand. Then eye across the top to another level surface. In my case to a shelf across the workshop. In this case 1.5mm thick card at the back end was perfect.



Now using a piece of card the same thicknes pushed down onto the deck, a line can be drawn along the top.
 



You will finish up with a line like this

Having reduced the side to the line you may find your level but have to fine tune the line or indeed just lower the side. In this instance I would use a thin piece of card or a thick pencil.



Dont forget to check across the boat as well
 
You can see the shelf in the background.
 
The finished piece



Don't despair if your result are not perfect, mant craft had a plate 4/6" high around the bottom edge to secure the superstructure.
In this case both sides were the same, nice one Christian
 So ends todays lesson lol, hope someone found it useful


longshanks

 

[Rottweiler]

Nice one Kev!
 Looks an easy way of doing it,thanks.
Now the big question is....will it float lol.
Happy New Year to you and Jen.
Mick F

[RAAArtyGunner]

Nice one Kev!
 Looks an easy way of doing it,thanks.
Now the big question is....will it float lol.
Happy New Year to you and Jen.
Mick F

Only if the levels are right 

[longshanks]

No chance of it floating level or not 


It's the little things in life that can give the most pleasure 
Working sliding chartroom windows





Now if someone can tell me where I can get 0.3 + 0.4 mm drill bits with points on I'll be able to fit the brass handle.

Thanks for looking in, Happy New Year one and all.
 

Kev

[dougal99]

Now if someone can tell me where I can get 0.3 + 0.4 mm drill bits with points on I'll be able to fit the brass handle.

I got mine from Squires Tools, no problems. There site is down for maintenance at the moment. Tel: 01243 842424


HTH

[ballastanksian]

Amen to that. Definitly give Squires a call. They do pretty much anything and if they had the contact details, they might even stock those interesting clamps.

Looking Good Mr Longshanks, keep up the good and detailed work.

[Rottweiler]

Kevin,
I have sent you a pm regarding the fine drills?
Mick F

[longshanks]

Here we go on an update to keep the interest going, yours and mine :winkgrin:

I've been working on the chartroom interior, a mixture of knowledge/guess work/gizmology . . . .


The hole nearest the camera is for access to the lower deck


Battle lanterns known as torches to most of us




The daybed / settee goes under the chart table hence the short back rest


Steps to bridge offered up, more work required




Thanks for looking your comments welcome

Kev

[radiojoe]

Beautiful detailing Kev watching with interest.

[ballastanksian]

Yes, it is coming along great! Do not worry about the gizmology as fittings and equipment was upgraded and replaced all the time.

In the book about the Royal Sovereign class battleships, When the Sovereign was being handed over as the 'Archangelsk' the Soviet Zampolit/Commanding officers was angry because the crew had removed some equipment in the Bridge (evidenced by the holes in the walls) and they wanted to know why the British were witholding technology from them? They would not be told that the ships were updated regularly and that there would always be gaps and holes left from the old kit being removed!

[Rottweiler]

ah but when the archangelisk was handed back they didnt remove the rats and fleas either!


Mick F

[ballastanksian]

Or a 15 inch shell that they had left to rust into one of the tubes after a misfire!

[Rottweiler]

Have you read this one Ballastanksian?
Mick F

Sorry Kevin,didnt mean to hijack your thread.

[longshanks]

Superstructure taking shape now
















Thanks for looking

longshanks

[ballastanksian]

Those interiors realy make the model so far!

Will start new thread about the R class battleships to return your thread to the right path.

[longshanks]

Well here goes todays (part) offering. I've been mucking about with the search light tower just abaft the bridge. Not only is it all angles and curves but it needs to be hollow as inside is the ford hatch to engineroom.

Seems to be going to plan . . . .








Right way up with the original on the plan above


Just got to persuade the curve bit to go where I want it 

Thanks for looking in

longshanks

[ballastanksian]

Two possible ways to reduce the angst and swear words when curving the bit are:

1, cut the bit off and replace it with a piece of wide tube from a variety of free sources such as tops on aerosols or similar (assuming the curved bit isn't too tall).

2, cut the bit off and replace with strips of plastic with their edges chamferred to conform to the curve and then sand smooth. If the inside can be seen then use a round ended sanding tool to smooth this off.

These processes remove the risk if breaking it or heat damage caused when using a hot air gun or hot water to soften the bit prior to bending it.

A third idea, better for making rings or similar, is to laminate thin layers of styrene sheet until you have the right thickness of plastic. Just beware of using too much cement or the sheet softens too much.

[longshanks]

Thanks for those ideas 

[steve pickstock]

Forming the chartroom/bridge sides today. . .
It occured to me that perhaps everyone dosen't know how to scribe into the deck sheer, I fit kitchens for a living so its something I'm doing all the time cos builders can't build level or upright
So at the risk of boring you I thought I take some pics of my progress.
 
The first thing to do is level the top edge, this should be parrallel with the waterline. the way I do this is to se the boat up level i.e. in its stand. Then eye across the top to another level surface. In my case to a shelf across the workshop. In this case 1.5mm thick card at the back end was perfect.



Now using a piece of card the same thicknes pushed down onto the deck, a line can be drawn along the top.
 



You will finish up with a line like this

Having reduced the side to the line you may find your level but have to fine tune the line or indeed just lower the side. In this instance I would use a thin piece of card or a thick pencil.



Dont forget to check across the boat as well
 
You can see the shelf in the background.
 
The finished piece



Don't despair if your result are not perfect, mant craft had a plate 4/6" high around the bottom edge to secure the superstructure.
In this case both sides were the same, nice one Christian
 So ends todays lesson lol, hope someone found it useful


longshanks

God bless you and keep you sir, and may angels guide you to your rest tonight. Many thanks for this. I received one of these hulls for Christmas - mine will be a sailing model, and this will be extremely useful, thanks.

[longshanks]

Hi Steve,
You are most welcome, I’m happy that even if I have only been able to help one person it’s been worth the effort.
Feel free to PM if you need any assistance, even if the blog is withdrawn. I wish you luck with your endeavours.

I must admit to being a little disappointed in the feedback, possibly due to the fact that
A    It’s not R/C, impossible considering what I’m trying to do
B   The purists hate the fact that I’m using plastic for which I make no apologies. It will give me the finish required at this scale. It’s easier and more practical to work with. I am using components as small 0.28 x 0.56mm, not realistically possible in wood.

Just my opinion
longshanks

[steve pickstock]

I have often found the feedback on these things is often less than you would expect.

Do you have a link to where you got your clamps from?