Topic: MDF or Ply........ Foamex sheet?! (Read 22186 times)

pcresser · « **on:** March 25, 2015, 04:53:23 pm »

Hello, whats the best for making the frames of a boat mdf or ply.
Paul.

Charlie · « **Reply #1 on:** March 25, 2015, 04:54:46 pm »

Shipmate60 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 25, 2015, 05:02:32 pm »

Ply

Bob

Netleyned · « **Reply #3 on:** March 25, 2015, 05:15:31 pm »

Marine ply
MDF is like a sponge in a marine environment.
Make sure the ply you buy is WPBP
That's waterproof boilproof.
Give it a couple of coats of varnish or epoxy also

Ned

roycv · « **Reply #4 on:** March 25, 2015, 05:23:48 pm »

Hi I will join in the choice of ply. Whenever I make a model boat mainly from wood I only use the best materials.

The reason is how long do you want the model to last?

It is possibly and in my case certainly, that the models will out last you.
I great pity to have them rotting from bits out of site because you are a "cheap skate".

regards Roy

Plastic - RIP · « **Reply #5 on:** March 25, 2015, 05:32:50 pm »

Foamex sheet - wateproof, UV-stable, easy to cut, put it together with Polypipe glue.

Wood is way too much hassle.

inertia · « **Reply #6 on:** March 25, 2015, 05:41:46 pm »

MDF is just about OK for a boat stand, as long as you give it several coats of thinned polyurethane varnish to soak into the fibres and set up hard. BTW the dust from cutting or machining or sanding it is apparently carcinogenic, so either wear a decent mask or don't book your holidays too far in advance. Other ways of encouraging fatal diseases are available.

Plastic
Is that Medium Density Foamex or WaterProof + BoilProof Marine Foamex?

DM

Plastic - RIP · « **Reply #7 on:** March 25, 2015, 06:25:12 pm »

Quote from: Inertia on March 25, 2015, 05:41:46 pm

Plastic
Is that Medium Density Foamex or WaterProof + BoilProof Marine Foamex?

DM

Didn't know there was more than one type. I use the 8'x4' sheets that sign-makers use in 1mm, 3mm & 5mm thicknesses.

sparkey · « **Reply #8 on:** March 25, 2015, 07:08:58 pm »

Wood every time,use good quality materials and treat the wood with good vanish and paint and the boat will last a life time,besides working with wood is very enjoyable and tactile which I don't get with plastic materials but some of us modellers use anything to hand and have great results who am I to judge,there again I am as old as the ark and used to my old ways,Ray.

html · « **Reply #9 on:** March 25, 2015, 09:32:32 pm »

Always waterproof ply, less prone to twisting and warping. Also less precautions required when cutting a lot of it, can also be lighter than MDF. I do not think they use MDF on full size boat frames, why use it on a model?

david48 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 25, 2015, 11:14:19 pm »

I had a quarter sheet of 10 mm MDF and it was in the shed and it got slightly damp at one end it has swelled to over 15mm thick ,so by now you will have the message that MDF is no good .
Use good quality modeling ply then when it is cut it will have no holes or cracks in the laminate build up . Sorry I can not give links to suppliers but someone on here will put you in the right direction
David

inertia · « **Reply #11 on:** March 25, 2015, 11:20:55 pm »

These guys have never fallen short of excellent in either quality or service http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/Birch-Plywood.html
DM

tigertiger · « **Reply #12 on:** March 26, 2015, 01:58:41 am »

Quote from: plastic on March 25, 2015, 06:25:12 pm

Didn't know there was more than one type. I use the 8'x4' sheets that sign-makers use in 1mm, 3mm & 5mm thicknesses.

Plastic,
What thickness do you use for frames? Is 5mm sufficient?
I am thinking of both rigidity and glueing area here.

As this is an alternative construction material, and possible different methods of construction, could you do a build thread please?
Or some other thread at least showing some models or the model making?

I am sure some of the member would be interested to see this.

pcresser · « **Reply #13 on:** March 26, 2015, 07:05:37 am »

Hi everyone, thanks for all the replies and advice.
Many thanks,
Paul.

Plastic - RIP · « **Reply #14 on:** March 26, 2015, 07:27:36 am »

Quote from: tigertiger on March 26, 2015, 01:58:41 am

Plastic,
What thickness do you use for frames? Is 5mm sufficient?
I am thinking of both rigidity and glueing area here.

Wherever extra strength or a larger gluing area is needed I just slap another layer on. The glue dries in seconds so you can build incredibly quickly. You can change your mind and just chop material away or glue some back in no time. I use more glue or waterproof PVA to seal any exposed foam edges to make a paintable surface.
This board cuts easily with a Stanley knife or with scissors.

I've attached a pic of a 1/200 Titanic I did a couple of years ago.

Arrow5 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 26, 2015, 08:56:00 am »

Tell us more Plastic. I`m interested in the material and can see it as a useful addition to keep our costs down. Bonus would include less prepping for paint , less sanding, smooth surface etc etc.

Plastic - RIP · « **Reply #16 on:** March 26, 2015, 09:36:39 am »

It's a great material - I last paid £30 for 8'x4' 3mm sheet. It has no grain, it's slightly flexible and plumber's PVC glue sticks it together. You can also use the glue as a filler for small gaps.

It weighs nothing - the whole Titanic hull was less than 1kg (it is double skinned & double bottomed to be very rigid and have lots of watertight compartments. I've attached another earlier pic showing the structure.

*This all came about when I was given the 1/200 Taschen card model Titanic (it comes as a book as a waterline model to build) and I wondered how difficult it would be to build it into a working model.

The model essentially forms a simple 2d pattern for me to replicate in Foamex (deducting the material thicknesses where appropriate) and I had to to invent the below waterline part of the hull using traditional techniques.

I was going to use Plasticard for the model but it worked out too expensive so this material was next on the list. I totally recommend it.

Arrow5 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 26, 2015, 10:02:14 am »

Thanks Plastic. Modern methods and materials not to say electronics and motors are slower to be adopted in the model boat world than in other forms of modelling. Any more of your builds to show us ? Titanic looks good. Scaling-up card models are as good if not better than plans IMO.

tigertiger · « **Reply #18 on:** March 26, 2015, 10:55:34 am »

Quote from: plastic on March 26, 2015, 09:36:39 am

... and have lots of watertight compartments...

Not like the original then

grasshopper · « **Reply #19 on:** March 26, 2015, 02:55:20 pm »

Isn't foam board a preferred material for our friend Krishna to make the proliferation of boats that he does?

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #20 on:** March 26, 2015, 03:02:30 pm »

Topic renamed!

U-33 · « **Reply #21 on:** March 26, 2015, 03:07:51 pm »

Isn't there a little kit of a Fairey Swordsman available made from Foamex? I'm sure I've seen one somewhere...on eBay, I think? About £30ish.

NoNuFink · « **Reply #22 on:** March 26, 2015, 04:15:47 pm »

@plastic
Have you got a link to a local source of foamex? (I'm in the same part of the world as you)
It's not something I've come across before.

NNF

Arrow5 · « **Reply #23 on:** March 26, 2015, 04:34:21 pm »

I I think Krishna uses a paper and foam type of "foamboard" . We have to be careful about terminology here.

Netleyned · « **Reply #24 on:** March 26, 2015, 04:39:01 pm »

Quote from: U-33 on March 26, 2015, 03:07:51 pm

Isn't there a little kit of a Fairey Swordsman available made from Foamex? I'm sure I've seen one somewhere...on eBay, I think? About £30ish.

Yeah
Speedline methinks
Ned

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Author Topic: MDF or Ply........ Foamex sheet?! (Read 22186 times)

inertia

inertia