Topic: SEABEX ONE scratch build (Read 133790 times)

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #125 on:** May 31, 2015, 11:11:08 am »

The soldering went well Brian. I used multicore decent stuff from my past career. The secret is to warm to tube just up from the proposed join and apply the solder and watch it run in ok. The times I had my other hand opposite the flame is no odds to nobody. Scheesh, it's warm.

I will take some pictures for you Neil. The secret , as I'm sure you are aware, is to stop the drill from bending and to apply 'gentle pressure' in a vertical direction. I was getting away without snapping for quite a time until confidence and 'rush to finish' time took over.

I have finished the 'Tower of radio aerials' so all that remains is to sit in sunshine quietly fettling the excess solder and lumpy bits. It looks quite amateurish at the moment, but assured it will come out all right.

Thanks to all for the private emails on my subject. It's great to see such interest and have all this help. I don't think I could have done at all alone and am grateful for all the tips.

Pictures later.

ken

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #126 on:** May 31, 2015, 09:44:55 pm »

Here's a picture of my jig Neil. It consists of a block of wood with a groove cut sideways, the exact fit for a 2mm brass tube. Above it is an aluminium jig which is drilled with 3 of size 0.7mm holes. It's softer than steel and wears out with constant drilling through it, so new set of holes has to be made after about 20 uses.

In operation the tube is fed in from the right to stop against a pin so that the three holes can be drilled exactly spaced apart. The bar is then cut to length and the process repeated. The stanchions are then twisted on the sanding belt to make a tapered end to fit into the deck with ease.

Today I completed the frame for the radio masts and drilled and fitted it to the deck for a trial run before painting.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #127 on:** May 31, 2015, 09:51:19 pm »

Some more pictures

Brian60 · « **Reply #128 on:** June 01, 2015, 01:40:39 pm »

Looking good Ken.

newbe7 · « **Reply #129 on:** June 01, 2015, 01:57:09 pm »

Just finished looking at the build so far Great build.
Rick

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #130 on:** June 01, 2015, 07:53:45 pm »

Thank you fella's..

Isn't it always nice to get to the end. That one was a challenge and we still have the wiring for the lights to do.

According to my take on the drawings and pictures, the deck is covered with 'duck boards'. About 60 of em !!

I have broken open my packet of 2000 match sticks and started gluing them into little squares. Boring but quite a restful way to spend the day. tehe

ken

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #131 on:** June 02, 2015, 10:30:06 am »

While steadfastly gluing hundreds of match sticks together my thoughts turned to the crane winches.

I shall need two drum type winches that have to be VERY small. I had previously made some from servos for the Gry Maritha and, although they work very well, they could be smaller this time. I did examine a micro servo but the gubbins is very small !! I am now at the scale of 1:72 which means some of my construction looks giant when fitted to the ship.

Is there any source of manufacture out there producing these units please, that you know of. ?

ken

Brian60 · « **Reply #132 on:** June 02, 2015, 11:47:05 am »

Ken it is usual practice on this type of craft that there is a steel plate deck at the stern for when anchor handling duties pull an anchor on deck. Then the rest of the deck is sectioned off. It would be a steel subdeck and then thick wooden planking, usually 8-10 inches width 4-6 inches thick and 8-10ft in length, think of a smaller railway sleeper. Its to take the everyday wear and tear of dragging equipment about, its easier to replace a drop in board than have to repair steel decking. Check out my build it has a 140 boards!

Miniature motors don't come any smaller than these......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-6mm-x-4-8mm-2-Wire-DC3V-2000RPM-Miniature-Electric-Vibration-Motor-5-Pcs-/121276227950?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c3ca0616e

Just prise off the bob weight and you are good to go.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #133 on:** June 02, 2015, 09:25:23 pm »

Thanks for the motor info Brian. Two things against these are that it's 2000 rpm and only 3 volts. I need a 12 volt (maybe 6 volts at a push) that rotates at 40 rpm.

Here is my matchstick factory.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #134 on:** June 02, 2015, 09:30:20 pm »

Here we are at 100 pallets of 14 match sticks each. All sanded smooth with clean edges. The effect looks similar to your Brian.

I have laid them out in the formation shown on my reference pictures.
The colour has yet to be decided, and then they will be spaced out along the deck. I don't know yet whether to put a runner between the pallets or leave a gap.

cos918 · « **Reply #135 on:** June 02, 2015, 10:26:46 pm »

Hi Ken
40 rpm motor gear box

john

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1Pcs-DC-6V-40-10-RPM-High-Torque-Electric-Speed-Reduce-Gearbox-Gear-Box-Motor-/321747328219?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4ae9a29cdb

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #136 on:** June 02, 2015, 10:30:01 pm »

Give that man a drink on me. Thanks John, it looks just part. Worth a gamble.

Cheers

ken

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #137 on:** June 05, 2015, 11:05:55 am »

Had a bit more fun with matchsticks.

What colour to make the finished product. Wood dye is up to £20 a tin so my wife came up with such a good idea, I thought I'd share it with you.

Tea .................

We brewed some tea in a large container and made it quite strong. The milk and sugar were left out and the brown liquid was left to cool. This was poured into a flat bottomed dish and the 'pallets' were place in the liquid and left overnight.

Well ... to say I'm pleased with the result is an understatement. They came out a wonderful golden brown with only two out of a hundred falling apart. They are now drying out nicely as per the pictures.

Cheers

ken

Brian60 · « **Reply #138 on:** June 05, 2015, 02:51:59 pm »

I used tea for staining the sails on my sailing trawler, but still had to use a red dye. The tea aged the material but they weren't red enough. You can get small tins of Colron wood dye for about a fiver, only a hundred or so mls in th ecan but enough- get a dark one and thin it down even more with white spirit.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #139 on:** June 05, 2015, 07:35:04 pm »

It is a trifle light in colour but I warming to it. I like your idea of thinning out real stain. Maybe I'll add some of this later.

Cheers

ken

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #140 on:** June 15, 2015, 08:11:57 pm »

Today I fibre glassed the Hull.

My thanks to Stavros for his invaluable tips after my first attempt which were so bad I didn't mention it.

Pictures to follow when it's set.

ken

Brian60 · « **Reply #141 on:** June 16, 2015, 10:24:57 am »

Going back to reply 127 by you Ken. Its a lovely piece of superstructure you have put together there, but where did you get the ladder from that is up against the mast array? That's a good length to have if I can get some, I have it in brass and plastic but they are only 50mm lengths and don't look right when joined together.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #142 on:** June 16, 2015, 11:05:01 am »

@ Brian, it came from the model train shop. It's a 00 gauge set and I bought a few as there's ladders all over this boat.

Quite expensive (as per all that gauge stuff !!) if I remember, but does look the part.

Here's some snaps today out in the garden. The surface is a delight.. the epoxy is water clear so, unfortunately, it shows the surface colours underneath, but not to worry, as this will be painted anyway.

I also did the stand !! as it was wood and took very well.

Brian60 · « **Reply #143 on:** June 16, 2015, 07:28:06 pm »

R U going to have a working moonpool? I went this route about 20 years ago on a model. After I had laid the hull up and it looked great, it was only then that I realised the moonpool was internal to the superstructure. So I knew it was there but nobody viewing the model would know it even existed!

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #144 on:** June 16, 2015, 09:59:14 pm »

Yes, I'm going to have it as a feature. Hopefully planning to kit it out. We have platforms in there and maybe a Bathysphere to be lifted by the crane.

I might use one of the spare ladders.

cheers

ken

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #145 on:** June 19, 2015, 08:13:40 pm »

The epoxy has dried nice so it was sanded smoother. We then applied my favourite 'Red Oxide' primer and also sanded it across the tops to iron out smaller defects.

Here it is after a second coat, drying in the sun. One large tin sprayed the whole boat twice.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #146 on:** June 19, 2015, 08:17:54 pm »

While this was drying we got on with the floor pallets. The soaking in the cold tea had originally worked but was not dark enough, so we bought some mid oak wood stain.

The pallets were laid out on the 'silver sprayed' rear deck section as a test run before final cutting and fitting

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #147 on:** June 19, 2015, 08:23:17 pm »

All of the completed sections were then placed on the ship to get an overall picture.

hama · « **Reply #148 on:** June 19, 2015, 09:37:39 pm »

Wow, looking nice!!
Hama

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #149 on:** June 19, 2015, 09:42:28 pm »

Thanks Hama.

I haven't fixed the rear deck down yet because there's a lot to go in, but I couldn't resist placing the parts in order.

ken

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Author Topic: SEABEX ONE scratch build (Read 133790 times)