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[Capt Podge]

Thank you Ian - the camera is a Nikon L840 £159.99
 
I've only tried a few shots - family pets, couple of stills - getting the hang of the various settings before I start using it for the boats
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Ianlind]

G'day Ray,


Not familiar with that Nikon, but I use a number of Nikon DSLR's and only last week just got a new Sigma 150 - 500 Telephoto lens, auto focus, and what a lifechanger that is. The lens alone weighs just under 2KG, so carrying a camera around has just reached a new level! Main reason for this new aquisition was for wildlife and bird photography, but is super versatile for other types as well. Not quite something that fits in your pocket though!


Keep up the great modelling as well!


Ian

[Capt Podge]

I've not given up on this one guys and girls - just got a new laptop to go with the new camera and trying to get into the swing of windows 8.1 and then I'll be ok for updating - apologies to all interested parties

Regards,

Ray.

[Capt Podge]

This is just a test photo to ensure all is well before attempting any further updates.
Been having compatibility issues with laptop / camera
 

test_pic.jpg
 
Hopefully all ok now...
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Capt Podge]

I wasn't happy with the job I'd done on the capping rail so rubbed it all down and started again.
 

caprail.jpg
 
This time it was given a slightly lighter coat of stain - happy with that so on we go...
 
Back to the wheelhouse. All wood trim has been glued into position, slight camber created for the wheelhouse roof. Now ready for staining.
 

woodtrim.jpg
 
Main wheelhouse given 2 coats of the teak satin woodstain - left to dry off overnight - the bridge wings were tackled next. Using the originals which should match up ok once they've been stained.
 

whstained.jpg
 

old_wings.jpg
 
The wings and the remainder of the deck fittings were sanded back, the wooden bits stained along with the bridge wings, and the bits and pieces of the winch put back together.
 
The majority of the deck fittings now ready...
 

fittings.jpg
 
The original wheelhouse "glass" has been salvaged and cleaned up then glued in using Formula 560 canopy glue.
 
Some minor sanding was required to get the wings to fit nicely to the wheelhouse and they were then epoxied into place.
 
Once the glue had cured the wheelhouse was dry fitted to the deck to measure up for the supports for the wings. These were cut from a length of copper-coated mild steel rod and rubbed down with wet 'n dry, used dry, to remove the coating.
 
Holes were then drilled and wing supports push-fitted to ensure correct height prior to gluing.
 
So, the wheelhouse was epoxied to the deck and the supports cyanoed in place.
 
Other fittings glued on: Fish hold cover, ice hold cover, 2 warp guides, accommodation skylight, winch and gear housing.
 

glued_fittings.jpg
 
...and here's a little shot looking down from the bridge


skippers_view.jpg
 
Regards,
 
Ray.

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Very Tidy.   

That's a nice job you're making of her.

Cheers

ken

[Capt Podge]

Thanks Kenny,

I'll try to get a bit more done this evening and update if time permits.

Regards,

Ray.

[Capt Podge]

...continuing
 
Port and Stbd Nav lights glued to the wheelhouse roof, also glued on the radar - the roof won't be glued on until a skipper has been found and placed at the ships wheel.
 
Crew companion way painted, portholes c/w "glass" glued in, door handles / hinges made and installed.
 
The 2 gallows have been painted up and glued into position. Once again I utilised the Citadel Paints and this dries quite quickly, being water based acrylic.
 
Grab rails made for the bridge access ladders.
 
Stanchions and rails for atop the wheelhouse net storage have been repaired and just need painting up before fixing in place.
 
Finally, for this session, the galley stove chimney has been painted and glued in position.
 
Here's a few photos:-
 

stbd.jpg
 

gallows.jpg


port.jpg
 
Regards,
 
Ray.

[Capt Podge]

Another little update - and about time too...
 
In that last photo you can see plans pinned to the wall but, they are from a previous model (TON12), I just left them there for a bit of decoration
 
I don't have the plans for this model - I'm just copying bits and pieces from my other ELKE.
 
...so on we go.
 
The rails / stanchions for the "spare net storage" were painted and glued into place.

 
netstore.jpg
 
Early on in this build I decided to make the foremast removable. Found an old windchime hollow metal tube which, cut to size, makes an ideal "underdeck" tabernacle, which ensures the mast goes back into correct position every time and helps keep it upright.
 

tabernacle.jpg
 
The downside to this is having to find a way to install the for'd gallas (gallows) supporting bar which needs to be secured to the mast.
The same thing applies to the after gallas supports as they attach to the side of the superstructure which, of course, is removable for access to the model innards.
 
So, a hole was drilled part way into the side of the mast and a shallow bend made, on the end of the bar, at the mast insert. Another angled bend was induced at the gallas end of the bar and this just tucks under the gallas frame and sits inside the warp guide, thereby making it easily removable after sailing.
 

for'd_gallas.jpg
 
The after gallas were tackled in the same manner except that both bars are removable.
 

after_gallas.jpg
 
I'll post another update later tonight - Dad's Taxi going out again
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Capt Podge]

A few more little bits have been done:-
 
The fairleads have been epoxied to the capping rail.
Cruciform bollards added around the maindeck.
Anchor windlass painted up, chain wound on and attached to the anchor. Epoxy used to attach windlass to deck. Cyano to secure the anchor chain.
 
Lifebelts mounted on bridge wings.
Lamp platforms set onto foremast, new one made for sternlight on after mast.
 
Both masts drilled and metal loops set into them, ready for rigging up.
 
Both masts have been painted with white tops then staining to the remainder.
 
A quantity of rigging thread has been treated by pulling it through saddle soap, twisting it as it is pulled through, this ensures a good covering and gives some protection against water.
This also helps prevent "hairy rigging".
 
Emergency radio batteries box glued to the wheelhouse roof.
 
All navigation lamps currently undergoing paint job.
 
The sail booms have been stripped back and restained, then cyano used to attach to masts.
 
Made a "Y" shaped bracket for the foremast boom rest. This will be attached to the front of the wheelhouse during my next workshop session.
 
Here's a couple of photos:
 

windlass.jpg
 

fordmast_painted.jpg
 
I really must make an effort to recruit a crew for the boat - she's getting close to completion now.
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
 

[nivapilot]

Damned fine work sir..
The Nikon L840....beautiful camera.....and what a zoom it has on it.
Loving the build so far and cannot wait to see her sailing.

[Capt Podge]

Damned fine work sir..
The Nikon L840....beautiful camera.....and what a zoom it has on it.
Loving the build so far and cannot wait to see her sailing.

Yep, the camera is a good 'un, the user still needs to develop technical ability with it though .
 
Thank you for your kind comments, another update later today
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Capt Podge]

Done a fair amount since my last update - even managed to take a few photos - so here goes:-
 
The sails, in furled mode, were attached and the running rigging started.
 

sailson.jpg
 
...and another of the mast mounted...
 

sailmounted.jpg
 
Quite pleased with that so went on to the standing rigging - here's the result...
 

rigged.jpg
 
...and the mast, as previously stated, can be removed, as a unit and rigged up again at the lakeside.
 
Rigged up the after mast in the same way and it can also be removed intact.
 

aftrigged.jpg
 
The last bit of rigging tackled was the 2 x fore to aft wires between the crosstrees of the masts. This was achieved using split-pins and rigging cord.
 
The crew was recruited from Wilko, in the form of a bunch of firemen (£1.50 for ten of them), so these were put "under the knife", painted up and cyanoed to the boat.
 
A couple of small nets were made up and glued in place.
 
The running gear was given a final test then into the bath she went for ballasting - just needed a small amount of lead up for'd - she sits spot on the water line.
 

ballast.jpg
 
She will be given her sea / acceptance trials later today at the lake - weather permitting
 
Note: There was no rowing boat in with the wreckage so I'll be making one this coming week so, for the purpose of this log, the model is done and dusted.
 
Here's a couple more photographs.
 

above.jpg
 

portside.jpg
 
Thank you to one and all for the interest shown and the helpful comments
 
I'll try to get a couple of photo's of her on the water and post them up.
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[essex2visuvesi]

I'll be watching this one as I have one of these to build

[radiojoe]

Cracking job there Ray, she does look authentic and will look great sailing, a good chance to practice with that new camera, some nice close up's now.

[Capt Podge]

Thanks Joe - I now know how difficult it is to control the boat and the camera at the same time
 
Still, I did manage to get a few shots away - hope they reproduce ok on here:-
 

portside.jpg
 

stbdbow.jpg
 

portbow.jpg
 

bows.jpg
 
 
...she sailed beautifully
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
 

[spooksgone]

Well done Captain. She looks a real treat on the water What thread did you use for the rigging? Well worth your time and effort. Thanks for sharing. Phil

[radiojoe]

Ray she looks magnificent, with nothing in the back ground to compere her with it could be the real thing.

[Capt Podge]

what thread did you use for the rigging? Well worth your time and effort. Thanks for sharing. Phil

Thanks Phil - The majority of the rigging is commercially supplied, just used different sizes for the running rigging and the standing rigging.
The short lengths which hold the booms down are shirring elastic, makes life easier for getting the tension right .
 
Also, used "invisible" thread to tie off the standing rigging to the bottle-screws. The method here is, once the tension is right, use a small bulldog clip to hold it in place, tie the doubled up portion with 1 knot as close as possible to the bottle-screw, leaving a trailing end of the thread. Then run cyano into the doubled up portion and while the glue is still wet, wind the excess invisible thread around and up the joint. Then just let the cyano go off before trimming any loose ends.
 
Phew ! - a bit long winded but I think you'll understand.
 
 

Ray she looks magnificent, with nothing in the back ground to compere her with it could be the real thing.

Thanks again Joe - next time I'll collar somebody to operate the boat for me
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.