Topic: HMS Brocklesby semi scratch build (Read 240380 times)

maggie m · « **Reply #200 on:** January 11, 2016, 07:37:07 pm »

Brilliant work, looks like you could walk through and open the doors,

ballastanksian · « **Reply #201 on:** January 11, 2016, 09:04:02 pm »

Excellent and so realistic as the others have said. I like nooks as they seem to concentrate detail.

You are excelling yourself Joe

radiojoe · « **Reply #202 on:** January 14, 2016, 04:31:58 pm »

Thanks guys, the main deck is now bonded on, just in time I remembered to fit the anchor hawsers I like to fit these before the deck so I can epoxy them from inside hull, just now fitted the stiffeners each side of the access hatch, next I'll tidy up round the edge joint and fit the plinth around the access and no doubt I'll have a bit of fine trimming on the main superstructure, I'll fit the hold down magnets after that.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #203 on:** January 14, 2016, 09:07:21 pm »

I like the coaming on the foredeck. I hope you can get your brushes through it to get to all the detail on the bulkhead!

radiojoe · « **Reply #204 on:** January 14, 2016, 09:42:15 pm »

Hi Ian, yes I can pick out the detail on the fore end, which is why I left the two outer walls loose to slid in place later.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #205 on:** January 15, 2016, 09:17:56 pm »

Phew!

radiojoe · « **Reply #206 on:** January 16, 2016, 04:39:33 pm »

Today I got the combings around the access hatch done, I usually like the RC switches on the deck disguised as a vent or something but on this one the main superstructure is easily removable and is quite robust so I've incorporated the switches in the combing, and as I thought the superstructure needed some fine trimming to settle it down on the deck, it had only been prefitted to the deck clamped in place, after this came the fitting of the magnets, after a bit of careful measuring and fiddling I finally got the right, the magnets I have do need to be touching to get maximum hold.

Starspider · « **Reply #207 on:** January 16, 2016, 05:45:23 pm »

Looking very good Joe. Do the magnets hold it all together ok even if it gets choppy.
colin

radiojoe · « **Reply #208 on:** January 16, 2016, 06:05:29 pm »

Hi Colin, yes, provided all the magnets set up right and touching when the structure is hard on the deck they hold really well, I got fifty strong magnets for around £2 including postage, not ALL stuff on e-bay is rubbish.

Starspider · « **Reply #209 on:** January 16, 2016, 06:06:56 pm »

Cheers Joe I shall go eBay hunting
colin

ballastanksian · « **Reply #210 on:** January 16, 2016, 09:59:31 pm »

They seem to have become popular for holding things like that down on model boats, as Stan has done the same on his Schutze.

Looking good Joe:O) Tidy arrangement for the switches.

Unsinkable 2 · « **Reply #211 on:** January 17, 2016, 07:47:28 am »

Looking great Joe....

The magnets are called Neodymium and are super strong. U2

radiojoe · « **Reply #212 on:** January 19, 2016, 03:43:39 pm »

I was making the derricks before I got carried away with bonding the deck on, and had made the forward two, while these are still in my mindset I am now making the aft two this one is the aft stabd , shorter and has a heavier base, the aft port will be next longer and lighter.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #213 on:** January 19, 2016, 08:24:15 pm »

Crikey, so many types of derrick, even on a modernish vessel! Still, it adds to te overall impression of detail.

radiojoe · « **Reply #214 on:** January 22, 2016, 04:24:31 pm »

The derricks are quite fiddly so before I make the last one I thought I would have a go at the RIB for moulding so here's the result it's a little off being symmetrical but I think it's passable the bow canopy is going to be added after casting, likewise with the outboard motors propeller to simplify casting, now to make the moulds.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #215 on:** January 22, 2016, 09:41:56 pm »

For improved casting reliabilty and mould life I would make the outboard separate as well. Perhaps make a dimple on the underside of the motor block and a similar one on the stern board so you can then drill and pin the pieces together accutrately.

Looking good though Joe!

radiojoe · « **Reply #216 on:** January 22, 2016, 09:53:37 pm »

Hi Ian, the outboard is just resting on the rib for the photo, they are now curing in separate molds.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #217 on:** January 22, 2016, 09:55:13 pm »

Good oh. Looking forward to see your first casts.

radiojoe · « **Reply #218 on:** January 23, 2016, 03:55:18 pm »

While waiting for the RHIB moulds to cure I made the aft port derrick, a lighter design than the strb one, next I fashioned the bull ring from a piece of copper pipe, next in line is the anchor winch.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #219 on:** January 23, 2016, 06:15:14 pm »

Sterling work Joe.

Starspider · « **Reply #220 on:** January 23, 2016, 09:24:59 pm »

Nice bit of cranery and copper bashing

radiojoe · « **Reply #221 on:** January 24, 2016, 03:13:09 pm »

Thanks for the comments guys, Got the second RIB cast today, both came out well, the first out board had a bit missing due to air right at the bottom and had to slice on one side to extract easier but the second came out OK, I added the bow aprons, all in all I'm quite pleased with them.

Starspider · « **Reply #222 on:** January 24, 2016, 03:16:43 pm »

Joe very nice castings. A question if I may does the floor/deck normally have such high
strenthening ribs as they would appear to be a trip hazard.
colin

radiojoe · « **Reply #223 on:** January 24, 2016, 04:39:05 pm »

I dare say your right it was the smallest strip I had, painting may soften it a bit.

Netleyned · « **Reply #224 on:** January 24, 2016, 05:02:47 pm »

The Standard RN inflatable back in the 70's
was the Gemini which was not a rib but just a
rubber inflatable with a folding ply and wood strip
Strengthening floor.
They were very good for stubbing toes.

Ned

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Author Topic: HMS Brocklesby semi scratch build (Read 240380 times)