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[xrad]

Back again with new project. Trying a clinker built River Queen style boat with this 4 in diameter vert boiler and Stuart twin. Lots of detail for open boat project.  Still working on the hull design and type of clenching.

Inside the boiler there is a flame baffle just above the burner. It is made of SS and distributes the heat against the side wall a bit better than no baffle.  Keeps a steady 50psi with the engine turning over very nicely(at least in one direction, the other works but not as smoothly).

the only thing I don't like about the vert boiler is more heeling in the turns.  Will have to be a bit flat and fat in the hull design.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-MyzSaCAiQ

[rhavrane]

Bonjour Xrad,
Nice steam plant indeed, it will be perfect in a clincker hull.
Just a question, the twin Stuart is large and requires a lot of water to have autonomy, I have seen a manual boiler feed pump in your video, do you plan another one coupled to the machine, or electric ?

[Jerry C]

When I built S L Wear I came across the clenching problem. At 1/10 scale it's just not possible to really put in the required rivets and roves. Neither is it necessary as the planking can all be secured with Gorilla type polyurethane foaming glue activated by moisture. Since the 1950s clinker built boats have been glued. For visual effect the rivet heads and roves can be simulated with Indian ink or similar. I didn't bother because if it's not done perfectly it looks tacky. Looking forward to your build posts. Not many clinker boats on here.
Jerry.

[xrad]

Hi Fellas, Glad to see you are still here. 

Approximate steam requirements for engine: .7ci x2(2 sides to fill each revolution) x2(cylinders) x ~1000 rpms=2800 ci of steam

Boiler heated area ~ 100 sq in.

But If I run at 300-400 rpms, with steam throttle just cracked open, the boiler will maintain ~ 55 psi and the engine runs great.  Moderate to full throttle will outpace the boiler.  This is with the boiler on medium flame. With the gas cracked full open, the boiler will do better to keep up with the engine, but still not fully. Also, icing on the gas can.

So best practice is moderate heat, low rpms, and I get at least 20 min run time .

As far as boiler fill, I have a small vertical pump I might use. Definitely will have a hand pump. No electronics. Just old old school.....

 

As far a clenching, I was prepared to glue the planks, real nails for detail, if I can find some 1mm real copper nails and washers...or no washers...don't know yet.  Found some great square nails and washers, but a hair too big...

Might have to make my own from copper wire...tedious, but relaxing.....maybe....

[xrad]

found the nails:

copper pins (real copper) various sizes available:

https://www.cosplaysupplies.com/store.php?search=copper+pins&s=&searchbtn.x=0&searchbtn.y=0

and at between 4-10$ for 500, a bargain compared to model supply prices...

[hammer]

Running the engine free with out any load will consume more steam.   So in the boat, under load the boiler should be able to keep up with demand.