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[Capt Podge]

During this process, each support, both old and new, was numbered.
Now, the old ones were gathered up and bagged, just in case any are needed for templates in case of loss or damage to the new ones.
 
 

[Capt Podge]

The new ones have been transferred back to the old deck, for safe keeping, then taken inside until needed.
 
The next step was to make channels on the underside of the main deck for the "flush deck" to land on.
These were glued in place and the original underdeck frame test fitted between the channels - fits like a glove thankfully.
 
Then needed to work out how to fit the flush deck piece to the underframe...
So, the channels were carefully measured and the results transferred to the underside of the deck piece.
 
Because the under frame has a sheer, to conform to the main deck, it was then necessary to use clamps to hold it all in place until the glue hardened off.
 
 

[Capt Podge]

After a couple of hours the clamps were removed and the deck piece started to come away from the frame.
 
More glue was applied and this time the unit was positioned the right way up and loads of weights added.
 
 

[Capt Podge]

This was then left overnight to dry off.
 
Now the deck piece complete with frame was tried for fit. After some minor fettling it sits in place nicely. (forgot to photograph this before the next operation).
 
Another problem, which had been pointed out earlier, became apparent - the rear portion of the underdeck frame was catching on the rudder operating rod.
 
So, by mounting the ball and socket, on the tiller arm, upside down, we have a clearance of 4mm.
My thanks to JimG for that idea.
 
Now all the running gear was taken out and a start made on painting the wooden parts within the hull.
The first coat of primer has been applied and the hull brought indoors to dry.
 
Couple of photo's....
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
 

[carlmt]

Glad you managed to sort the leaky shafts in the end Ray - bloody frustrating when it happens at the time though!!! 
 
Otherwise, tidy bit of work here  .  Nice to see Neddy coming back to standard.

[Capt Podge]

Thank you Carl, hope I can do the model justice in the end.
 
While the paint is drying I'm rubbing down the bulwarks to prepare them as templates.
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Capt Podge]

Small update....
 
The 2nd coat of primer, followed by 2 coats of Humbrol matt white were applied.
 
In between coats the access hatch has been cut from the deck piece and the old bulwarks cleaned up ready to be used as templates.
 
 

[Capt Podge]

The bow and stern fendering has also been cleaned up and will be reused.
The fendering is actually an old toothed belt from a car engine - this was turned toothside out - quite difficult to get it to go opposite to it's original shape all those years ago but, since removal from the model, it has retained the inside out shape - that's a blessing in disguise!
 
 

[Capt Podge]

On / off toggle switch made up and installed on the foredeck.
 
All running gear reinstalled and tested - all ok.
 
Main deck glued on, using 30 min epoxy, then taped up and left to dry for 24hrs.
 
 

[Capt Podge]

This evenings session was spent removing all the tape and doing a little bit of sanding where the deck was showing above the hull top.
Then the 2 anchor hawse holes on the foredeck where drill out and that's where we are now.
 
Note: I've had to spend a number of hours getting my laptop up and running again due to hacker attacks. I've been telling myself for months now -"do a back up, do a back up" - nope, didn't bother and now I've lost every single document and photo that were saved to the harddrive - blinking infuriating
 
....ok, lesson learned.
 
Here's a photo of the boat to date.
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
 

[Capt Podge]

Another small update now...
 
The pieces of old bulwarks were used as templates and drawn onto cereal packet card, then tracings made, ready for transfer to 2mm birch ply.
 
 

[Capt Podge]

Parts were traced onto the ply then cut out near the lines (remembered to change the Stanley knife blade this time). Managed to cut out the bow section ready for sanding. At this point it became apparent that shaky hand stanley knife is not a good combination to have.
 
So, decided it was time to put a new blade in the bandsaw. Been meaning to do this for over a year, now it became a "must-do".
 
With the new blade installed, the remaining parts were cut out, again cutting about 1.5 - 2mm outside the marked lines and all were sanded down to the marks.
Pilot holes were then drilled in the bulwarks as markers for the brass eyelets which accommodate the ropes for the tyre fenders.
There a 6 "jointing" or backing boards to be attached, between 2 bulwark supports each, so these were tackled first.
Once these were glued on, the bulwark for the Port quarter was dry fitted and clamped in place while minor adjustments were made to a few of the supports.
Once happy, the supports were glued into position then the bulwark was epoxied and clamped until glue hardened off.
The bulwark wasn't an exact fit and so will require fettling later.
 
Incidentally, the birch ply (2mm) which was acquired through Cornwall Model Boats, has excellent plyability and requires no soaking / steaming etc, just gentle manipulation and curves nicely around the supports.
 
The long section of bulwark for the Port side was then fitted in much the same way as the Port quarter but using 30 min epoxy for the extra time needed to get it into position. The clamps will be left in place overnight.
 
Looking at the model from a distance, I can see that some of the supports on the Stbd side are too far inboard so will have to be moved out over.
Guess my marking out wasn't very accurate. 
 
Anyway, here's a couple of photo's....
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[chipchase]

your making a grand job Ray

[Capt Podge]

your making a grand job Ray

Cheers Brian - I'll send you a PM sometime tomorrow.....
 
Back to the build then:-
 
The bulwark supports on the Stbd side have been relocated and glued on, followed by the Stbd quarter and side pieces. While the glue was drying out the excess glue on the Port side was cleaned up. Never one for skimping on adhesives, most of my work, be it boats, D-I-Y or whatever, always needs extra work to clear up.
 
Finally, the bow piece has been fitted...
 
 

[Capt Podge]

A bit of filling and sanding was then required to finish the job off.
 
 

[Capt Podge]

The 5 hawse holes in the bulwarks were drilled/filed to size and shape then the original rims epoxied in place - glad I didn't need to remake those...
 
Then 48 holes were opened up to take the eyelets, for the ropes, for the rubber tyre fenders along the sides of the hull.
The eyelets were a tight push fit but each was secured with a drop of cyano - "just in case".
 
 

[Capt Podge]

Next the stern rubber fendering was epoxy glued in place - same for the bow - then left overnight to harden off.
 
 

[Capt Podge]

Finally, the capping rail was trial fitted - this is simply a length of rubber outer sheathing from an electrical cable, sliced along it's length.
This stuff retains it's original shape and therefore grips the tops of the bulwarks. It's not glued on at present but will be tacked into place every few inches.
As can be seen in the photo it wasn't quite long enough to meet at the after end, so a piece of tubing was pressed into service and will blend in when the hull gets sprayed.
 
So, until we are blessed with good weather, that's all that can be done with the hull.
 
Now to sort out the deck fittings and superstructure.....
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[radiojoe]

Still following this one Ray, looking good, I like the use of every day items to fill in for bits on the boat, the fender around my pilot boat is upvc window gasket, nice work Ray. 

[Fastfaz]

     I like the idea of using cable sheathing was it rubber or plastic and what diameter was it, how did you cut it straight? Keep up the good work.
      Cheers,
            Faz.
       

[Capt Podge]

Still following this one Ray, looking good, I like the use of every day items to fill in for bits on the boat, the fender around my pilot boat is upvc window gasket, nice work Ray. 

Thanks Joe. I used a broken belt from a tumble drier as fendering on my Pilot Boat (Layla).
 

     I like the idea of using cable sheathing was it rubber or plastic and what diameter was it, how did you cut it straight? Keep up the good work.
      Cheers,
            Faz.
       

Hi Faz, the cable sheathing is some sort of rubber. Not sure of the diameter, I have however, managed to find some feint marking on it: TA HSING 2.5C - 2v
 
Hope this is of some help to you - there might be someone on here who can decipher that marking?
 
For the cutting of it, I must confess I tried to cut it straight but it kept twisting. So it ended up in a very curvy line. Patience was required and I did end up with one continuous cut - just not straight. When pushed over the bulwarks it was just a matter of untwisting a bit at a time.
 
Hope this makes sense.
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Brian60]

Easy to cut in straight line with the right technique!

Screw on end to the bench, pull taught but not stretched, screw the other end down. Then using a straight edge on the cable, make your cut, Simples!

[Martin (Admin)]

Easier said than done Brian!   

[Capt Podge]

Brian's idea sounds logical however, it's the wires within the cable that tend to take the blade off the desired cutting line, this being due to the fact that the inner core is never laid in straight lines.
 
Another way perhaps, would be to make a small incision at one end, peel the sheathing back, put that end in a vice then use pliers to peel away the remainder, cutting as you go.
I'll try that sometime....
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Brian60]

The art of my technique is not to cut right through to the base wires or they will deflect the blade, keep the cut shallow just brushing them. Only 3 core cable is twisted inside the outer sheath, two core is not.

depending on how long a length you need, you can as podge says, clamp one end of the inner wires in a vice (make sure it is securely bolted to something heavy! Then instead of peeling it back over itself, just pull the outer sheath from the other end, slowly but with pressure, it will stretch, before it tears apart. leave it, then go to the other end and wiggle the sheath towards the unclamped end. Several repeats of this and you should get the outer sheath of the inner wires.

I have done both in the past and both work, the latter takes a lot to time and effort though and is not always successful