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[TurboCam92]

Hello all! Here's my first post about my first REAL attempt at a model R/C ship conversion. The first conversion I did was a "Frankenstein job" I did with my 1/225 scale USS Oregon. All I really did was take the guts of a Helion Lagos Sport and put it into the model. Although it is very overpowered, I caught the bug and wanted to do another model right. I initially wanted to convert the Italeri PT-109, but was persuaded by the employee of a local hobby store to embark on the journey that has been my Fletcher build. Being the unintentional masochist I tend to be, I decided to convert the Melvin to the O'Bannon as best I could (with my limited model making experience). I still plan to convert the Italeri PT-109 (and perhaps another, more ambitious project), but for now it's just me and the O'Bannon.

I'll post the Flickr albums (and perhaps some "greatest hits" pics) for both projects soon.

[TurboCam92]

Here's my "Frankensteined" Oregon:https://flickr.com/photos/138706781@N06/sets/72157663718734056
Progress on the O'Bannon thus far: https://flickr.com/photos/138706781@N06/sets/72157663640728431

I do have a few questions however.
1- Why is the motor provided by Lindberg not suitable for R/C?
2- Do most people go with two or one motor? I hear using the Lindberg gearbox is a trap, should I want to go with one (which I'm somewhat leaning towards).
3- What size would brass props be? I can't seem to track it down.

[Plastic - RIP]

Nice build!

There was a brilliant conversion at Alexandra Palace last weekend - here's a picture of the re-worked bridge structure:

I used 2x 280 motors, 2mm propshafts and twin brass rudders in my conversion.

[TurboCam92]

I used 2x 280 motors, 2mm propshafts and twin brass rudders in my conversion.

Did you upgrade to brass props as well? Also, my concern with going with two motors is giving it too much speed and making it unstable. In videos I've seen, they seem to want to capsize when they pick up a bit of speed.

[Plastic - RIP]

I used plastic propellers and a 6V car-style racing pack for power as low as possible in the hull - the motors were siliconed to the bottom - keep all mass as low as possible..

The 2 brass rudders are oversized so they act as stabilizers in a turn - they counteract the mass of the superstructure so as it tries to lean, they make an opposing force. I didn't have any problems with stability.

<<<<< My Avatar pic is my Melvin on the lake.

The main problem I found was they stern squatting deeper into the water as the propellers force the water out from under it - in a turn, there's no freeboard on the inside edge so it can take on water through the deck edge. I fitted a foam seal and extra bulkheads inside to control any water that could get inside.

The deck is in cut into 2 parts so the front is fixed and sealed and the whole bow section is filled with polystyrene beads (from an old beanbag) with some PVA added so it forms itself into the shape of the bow and it's a floatation block if the worst happens.

[TurboCam92]

Huzzah! That's exactly the kind of stuff I was looking for. The big thread by glendavis1971 is where I've taken most of my cues, but I wasn't able to see why everyone did what they did. This helps a lot. 

[Stan]

HI Plastic picture of my Deans Marine model. Scale 1/96 the model is powered by 2 385 motors running on 6 volts. Scale 40mm props fitted and a speed controller on each motor. I have 3 models which form a group at 1/96 scale. I have enclosed along with the Fletcher a picture of my carrier again 1/96 scale. Pictures by kind permission R Simpson.

[ballastanksian]

You are doing some lovely work Cameron. The Oregon is a beauty and the Flethcer is becoming one. It is heart rending to have to take a saw to work you have already done, but I think it is worth it in the end, you just have to convince yourself it is the right decision.


I bought 20mm props for my destroyer based on the Blue devil hull (See HMS Ready in this room) and will use a mixer unit with separate speed controller for the third shaft (three shafts on an M class!) .This will give differential steering and a few admittedly basic manoevres such as propellor steering etc.

Keep up the good work and I look forward to yet more interesting piccies and reportage to read along with all the other cool stuff happening on this forum.

[Plastic - RIP]

Here's a video still of my Melvin in a tight left turn - you can see how low the stern is and how she stays quite upright. (video shot from a camera on the bridge of my Revell Flower)

.

[TurboCam92]

Thank you all for the kind words and pointers. It's not exactly "spraypaint weather" here, so most work would be painting 1/125 figures to man the ship. Now that I have the advice, I'm sure installation of a power plant will happen.

[TurboCam92]

Due to a small FUBAR a while back (in which I accidentally amputated the rangefinders from the original Lindberg piece, mistaking them for a spar attaching the piece to the plastic framing), I decided a replacement was warranted.
https://flic.kr/p/DoVp6N

Shapeways provided me with the new, more accurate gun director. The radar mount is the etched brass that was on the Lindberg piece, transplanted to the new one.
https://flic.kr/p/CB7shc

I was also able to nab some more accurate torpedo directors from the same Shapeways vendor.
https://flic.kr/p/CAZFMU
https://flic.kr/p/DwcugN

[ballastanksian]

Crikey she took some battle damage! The new fittings will improve her lots, lovely director.

[TurboCam92]

I finished all of the gun director (etc.) improvements, and she's looking a bit more snazzy.
https://flic.kr/p/E7DabM
https://flic.kr/p/DEwx3C

However, I noticed another problem with the state of the boat. In photos, the O'Bannon had railings around the platform on her rear stack, whereas the Lindberg had a platform with bulwarks. I decided to remedy this as well.
https://flic.kr/p/DN7D3V
Initially I cut away the bulwarks and drilled in some indentations to the platform for the railing posts. For the posts themselves, I snipped up one of the Lindberg prop shafts (as I did with the railing around the gun director).
https://flic.kr/p/CYS2zJ
https://flic.kr/p/CYSfaJ
For the railing itself, I used some surplus etched brass.
https://flic.kr/p/DEwohS
Thankfully, I still had the spotlight from the fore stack that I removed. They were attached after fabrication was complete.
https://flic.kr/p/DEwq47
I think I replicated it fairly well.
https://flic.kr/p/Dy9XLV