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[Robin smith]

I am not the brightest sparkler in the box when it comes to electronics etc and would appreciatte some advice. I am in the final stages of completing my submarine and need to sort electrics etc. Bit of advice needed.


The complete kit came with a LTR6 Pitch and depth controller and a TAES static depth controller. My question is do I need both as they appear to do the same thing?


With regards to the piston tanks there is a micro switch which is operated by a brass plunger cam.It shows wiring to the switches POTI 1 and 2. There are 3 wires which need soldering to this. I cannot seem to orientate myself as to which goes where. There is red, orange and brown.Orange is ok as it goes to the centre location. With the switch uppermost and with the plunger facing down so that the soldered positions are uppermost where does the red and brown wires go? 


Found the kit good instructions bit iffy. One of the worst things is getting the forward techrack to lock in position. Still not sorted and working on this. Have checked all dimensions and fine. Also had problems lining up the prop shafts and have resorted to flexi couplings. The skid which mounts the rear of the prop shaft needs bending and cutting to do this. Not a good design needs making in two bits really. Heavy bit of metal which requires so much heat to get solder to flow.


Thanks for any help. 

[Dr.Schmidt]

The pitch controller adjusts the level and depth when the boat moves by adjusting the tilt of the dive planes. When yout boat is not moving, the dive planes have no effect, so the static depth controler kicks in. The static controller usually is switched of when it detects current to the drive motors.

[TomHugill]

The engel static depth controller is pretty pointless and I've found it more trouble than it's worth! I would disconnect and not worry about it.

[thegrimreaper]

photo of the slider switch for you


hope it helps


Mark

[Robin smith]

fantastic Mark thank you for the picture thunk I got it right anyway more by luck.


Would you disconnect the TAES?


Regards


Robin

[thegrimreaper]

If you have the motor connected to the main board as in the Engel diagram then no if you have not done that then yes as you will find you can hover the sub quite well with just the sliders to control fine depth I have two of the TAES boards here in a box of spares never used them heard the way they work can do damage to the relays due to them banging away trying to keep static depth by drawing in and pumping out tiny amounts of water into the tanks,also as Tom says disconnect the pressure switch as well as this will cause more problems if you dive more than 1.8 Mtrs. the tanks will automatically empty when you reach this depth.


Regards Mark.