Topic: Queen Mary (Read 87470 times)

ballastanksian · « **Reply #150 on:** February 25, 2017, 08:46:43 pm »

Can you mark the centres before fitting the plates Ken? I plated my destroyer today and marked out the positions and centre marked the portholes before gluing the styrene strips on. I didn't do rivets though!

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #151 on:** February 26, 2017, 10:21:05 am »

Hi Ballastanksian. There are plans afoot to mark out the positions of the plates as I have several sizes and shapes to contend with, along with different designs of them. 2 rivets and three rivets in lines, which makes it hard on the eyes to work out. I will be showing this as I go along

Yesterday was one continual punching on them rivets. I think I'm through the hard graft now and need to get some more Evostick ready for 'sticking on' time..

Below are some pictures of the production plant used in the process.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #152 on:** February 26, 2017, 10:27:00 am »

The band saw, set up with protecting sheet of wood cut to blade size. This saves the half mm plastic being torn downwards and gives a smooth cut which is parallel. I used to use a Stanley knife but I've only got ten fingers and already had several warnings.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #153 on:** February 26, 2017, 10:47:23 am »

Here's the punched out pieces. The plastic strips are fed by hand along the length one at a time to the marks.

One strip produces 160 rivet indents. Gets boring and achy after 3 hours and then dinner and back for another 2 hours. 30 strips so far.

BFSMP · « **Reply #154 on:** February 26, 2017, 12:18:12 pm »

Quote from: Tug-Kenny on February 25, 2017, 11:06:20 am

Thanks 'B' , it's all interesting stuff. I only need 6000 more rivets (he says). I'm certainly going to count them when I've finished.

The portholes will have to be drilled when they are affixed to the hull.

ken

Ken,

neil showed me this little gismo that he made some years ago and sent me the pictures to post you.........made of old clock cogs, a bit of brass and a chisel handle.
Save you a whole heap of time. and every rivet evenly spaced.

Jim.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #155 on:** February 26, 2017, 12:30:17 pm »

Thanks Jim,

I tried making one years ago and failed when making my Titanic. I found the results uneven, so abandoned the idea. The tool has the variants of hand movements, so the depth and straightness of the line could not equal the precision of a sturdy fixed machine process.

Looking back, I wished I had made a dual press so that the 'rivets' were always parallel in line. I don't suppose it will show much at this scale anyway when painted.

Cheers

ken

John W E · « **Reply #156 on:** February 26, 2017, 12:58:14 pm »

Hi Ken
have a look at this build of the Spider j by Gareth Jones and see how he achieved putting the rivet indents in the plastic strips.

http://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=98007&p=10

john

Brian60 · « **Reply #157 on:** February 26, 2017, 02:56:08 pm »

Quote from: Tug-Kenny on February 26, 2017, 10:27:00 am

I used to use a Stanley knife but I've only got ten fingers and already had several warnings.

10 fingers

Think you mean 8 fingers and 2 thumbs mate, although in hindsight I think like me, at times you feel like you have all thumbs

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #158 on:** February 26, 2017, 08:34:49 pm »

Thank you for the link John. I went over and had a read. I'm glad I've got the job done now as it was a daunting experience. I had punched 5400 dimples.

Brian ..... stop talking about fingers. It's still throbbing now it's dried out and crusty. argh!!!!!.

I did a count and the rivet total is 5400. That's a lot of punching one at a time. I had to go out, so no work on her today.

ken

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #159 on:** March 01, 2017, 10:06:46 am »

Finished riveting .......... are we ever finished with anything ?

The count is now up to 7000+.

I have fitted most of the strips to the hull now by using Evostick, and it's really stuck them down. I tried removing a strip after a day and broke the plastic, so I feel confident they will stay there during any voyages.

Here's the latest view from last night and I'm planning to remove the sticky tape today and fit a few doors.

Colin Bishop · « **Reply #160 on:** March 01, 2017, 12:18:27 pm »

They do look rather prominent Ken, how big would they be if you scale them up?

Colin

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #161 on:** March 01, 2017, 08:19:33 pm »

They do appear a little large.

Here's a picture of the real ship. I might flatten mine down a bit, but hoping the paints will reduce the illusion a bit more. I don't plan to put as many as the real ship.

ken

ballastanksian · « **Reply #162 on:** March 01, 2017, 10:12:24 pm »

Even putting 1/10th of the real number of rivets on the model by any method would be an epic project. You would have to be in real enthusiasm heaven to attempt it.

From a few feet away, they will look the part and then like most models, from fifty feet away they will disappear into the general Queen Maryish shape sailing on the pond. If there was a simpler way of getting a reasonable percentage of the real number on, then I would say go for it.

TailUK · « **Reply #163 on:** March 02, 2017, 08:46:01 am »

I've considered just putting the vertical rows of rivet on my QM They appear more prominent than the horizontal rows and would be easier to do. I've been experimenting with a laser cut tool and an old embossing press.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #164 on:** March 06, 2017, 10:03:17 am »

I'm still working on 'them rivets'.

I have sanded down the hull (lightly) to reduce their height and it's come out rather well.

The other problem in the illusion stakes was that the strips were not staggered to give the illusion of plating. I ended up with a vertical line of joins. To this end I cut out sections between the joins and fitted new strips to stagger them across the width of the hull. I think it looks better on the eye now.

I have made the side panels from 1mm plastic for the upper deck which involved a few hundred windows being drilled and some square ones being filed out.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #165 on:** March 06, 2017, 09:08:05 pm »

That is an epic window marathon Ken.

Looking good

Peter Fitness · « **Reply #166 on:** March 06, 2017, 09:15:10 pm »

You should now have some sympathy for the riveters who helped to build the real thing, Ken

Peter.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #167 on:** March 06, 2017, 11:10:21 pm »

I've got SPOTS in front of my eyes.

A nice sitting down job without the ear noise, Peter

There are loads of doors as well, coming through the production line.

ken

carlmt · « **Reply #168 on:** March 07, 2017, 09:28:07 am »

Quote from: Tug-Kenny on March 06, 2017, 11:10:21 pm

I've got SPOTS in front of my eyes.

A nice sitting down job without the ear noise, Peter

There are loads of doors as well, coming through the production line.

ken

Are they all the same size / appearance Ken? Take a look at my Norland post......quite happy to bang them out in card on the laser for you if it will save your sanity

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #169 on:** March 07, 2017, 10:09:42 am »

Thanks for the offer Carl. There are 20 doors around 10x4 MM, all cut ready for gluing on, so no problem there. I have to cut inserts into the strip riveting so that they lie flat against the hull in the gaps. Looks good from a distance, so can't wait to cover the lot in black paint. I'm hoping to cover the myriad of faults

Cheers
ken

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #170 on:** March 13, 2017, 03:29:24 pm »

All the rivets and windows have now been produced and we have started gluing the plates onto the hull.

Here is a picture of the doors. Here's some of the 20 doors.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #171 on:** March 13, 2017, 03:32:14 pm »

The stern area side plates were drilled and filed for the long windows and more portholes.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #172 on:** March 13, 2017, 03:34:23 pm »

Took the opportunity of the warm weather and applied another coat of Red Oxide paint.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #173 on:** March 13, 2017, 03:37:47 pm »

Final piece of the window plating jigsaw was the stern section. This was glued into place.

I have made a stand from clear plastic to keep the base off the workshop bench and stopping scratching my paintwork.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #174 on:** March 13, 2017, 08:59:08 pm »

She is becoming an epic build ken! What therapies do you use to get over porthole drilling?

News:

Author Topic: Queen Mary (Read 87470 times)