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[ballastanksian]

My HMS Penelope needs to be built in two halves so I will watch your progress with great attention to detail. It is a bit easier building from scratch as I can draw the frames as given on the plan in one block and mark for things like tubes, rods and the like.

I take it that your sanding was very minimal as I have found that it only takes an extra sweep or two and the edge has gotten a bit bowed. The Destroyer was cut and shut without sanding as the glue took up the irregularities (I used a rawor saw and it did not waver).

I am trying to work out a simple way of fitting your location system, obviously as a suggestion.

[Bob K]

I now have the plywood, and the tubing.  I was worried that a hacksaw might struggle with the 1/16 inch wall thickness of the stainless, but it did cut it OK. 
Whew !  I had visions of having to buy an angle grinder.

Too long

I thought they were rather long when my order for stainless telescopic tubing arrived.  I had ordered 3 m each of 1 inch and 7/8 inch o/d.  These are for the inter-hull support structures.  Well, I duly cut a metre off the one inch tube, then another, but when I came to cutting the third length I found there seemed to be a huge length remaining.  After measuring the “offcut” and the 7/8 dia tube I found they had sent me SIX metres of each.

I called Metals4U to check, and to notify them that their stock levels may be out.  They were very nice about it and said I could keep the extra 3 m of each.

So, anyone else thinking about joining a seven foot ship using stainless telescopic tubing is more than welcome to collect them from me F.O.C.

[Bob K]

Tubes

I now have the stainless steel tubes cut.  Six lengths of 475 mm for the outer one inch tubes, plus three lengths of 900 mm for the inner 7/8 inch tubes.  In the end the lengths were determined by the barbette positions from the plans. Total weight of tubes 4.27 kg, or 14% of final sailing weight.



Bulkheads

Now comes the tricky bit.  The bulkheads.  Getting these spot on, including aligning all holes for tubes, will be absolutely critical.  I need the key inner interfacing bulkheads 18 mm for strength, so I am making four at 9 mm to glue together as pairs.  Getting the profiles for these four is straightforward as with the hull cut in half I can copy the profile direct from the cut hull end and make four the same.

Outboard of these will be two 9 mm ply sections for each half, at approx. 238 mm spacing. 
      See picture of half scale mock up :-



Getting an accurate profile of these outboard bulkheads is the difficulty, as all are different, with the hull tapering slightly and varied inside curves.  Luckily the keel face is flat and horizontal over the distance required so that face is the main datum.  The edges must not only match the varying profile but with the tube holes exactly aligned and a good fit.

First bulkhead dry-fitted for size, to be copied for the other three inner ones.



When I have figured out how to profile the outer four 9 mm bulkheads I intend clamping all six together to drill the one inch holes. Taking into account the hull narrowing and keeping clear of the secondary armament positions.  The two rearmost bulkheads will be 25 mm less in height to suit the lower after main deck.

[dreadnought72]

If you can maintain a 'fit' like that for the others and drill the holes exactly, I don't think you'll have too many issues.

Are you thinking along the lines of a couple of blobs of Araldite on each bulkhead, with the steel rods in place, to tack the bulkheads to the hull, before removing the rods and gf-ing the bulkheads permanently?

I'm enjoying this!

Andy

[Bob K]

Thank you Andy.  Glad you are enjoying this      I am sweating hot conkers.

The initial 'central' bulkheads are relatively straightforward, although I am spending a lot of time getting them right.
It is when I come to the others I am thinking of making piece by piece templates for them, unless someone more experienced out there can give me some pointers.

Providing I can get all the edge profiles correct, and assuming they will be symmetrical side to side, I aim to clamp (or even dowel) all eight together to drill the one inch holes.  Then hopefully I can dry assemble it all together in the hull with the tubes, re-checking it all works, before trying to fix anything in place.  Then (maybe) using a very large amount of Plasticine (and maybe) Duct tape before tacking in place with Araldite as you say.

The short outer tubes will be structurally integral, and will be f/glassed in.  Only the long inner tubes are removable.

It will need to be assembled in the hull so I can keep re-checking all the alignments as I carefully tack it together step by step. 

[ballastanksian]

An idea I had forseeing ths issue with getting the bulkheads spot on in level as well as the tubes paralell was one of two options (beyond super dooper accuracy).

Both depend on in built sloppiness!

1. Make the bulkheads 3mm too small on the hull sides and bottom. Mark the centres of each bulkhead and the pattern of the tubes layout. Clamp them together including a partition  (an oblong of .5mm aluminium sheet or another non absorbant material that cannot be damaged by Car body filler) between the two bulkheads that form the split. Drill the holes. Fit inner and outer tubes through the holes setting the bulkheads up at the right distances apart. Square up and glue tubes in. Remember to keep the thin plate in place when you do this. Test mix some filler to obtain the longest application time available to you. Then apply filler to all your bulkheads, push the hull halves almost together and install structure butting hull halves against the partition making sure they are level in all aspects. Check bulkheads to see that the filler is evenly appplied and apply more where needed and let cure. Tidy up, check hull separation point for any adhesion between the two hull halves and separate the halves before removing the partirion. Tidy edges and rejoin halves.

2. Make your bulkheads as you are, but cut out an oblong in each one sufficiently large that it would accomodate the tubes. Then cut enough oblongs of your bulkhead material to provide each bulkhead with one making them 3mm smaller all round. The partition is needed again to make sure the two inner bulkheads at the split do not stick together. Fit the bulkheads. Measure and drill the holes in the oblongs for the tubes. Set the oblongs up onto the tubes including the partition, square up and glue. Insert the tube arrangement into the hull and fit in place using hardwood shims to set the frame square and then fix in place using filler and ply doublers. Remove partition once everything is set.

My thought is to balance out any innacuracy in bulkhead marking, that could upset the motion of the tubes when inserting/removing them, by making the interaction between tube holder and hull infinitly adjustable. Similar to having adjustable feet on white goods or a camera tripod.

[Bob K]

That was very interesting ballastanksian.  You put a lot of thought into that.  Appreciated.

Bear in mind that woodwork is not my best point of sailing. If I can get all the ply sections to fit the hull exactly, and align the one inch holes properly, that will be my aim.

I think I will first try for accuracy in the bulkheads.  If necessary I can slightly open up the tube holes if I have to with a drum sander on my Dremel.  I like your interface plate idea.  I do not want to stick the two hull halves back together !

[ballastanksian]

Certainly not! That is a great idea (and darned simple!) adjusting the holes. Just make sure those tubes are paralell after all that hard work   

[Bob K]

Sorry guys, but from this point onwards my build thread of HMS Agincourt will have to continue as text only due to the new Ransomware demands of Photobucket.

See my previous posts in which they are now blocking all images from my "free" hosting account unless I immediately pay them an annual subscription of almost one hundred US Dollars.   

[radiojoe]

Bob why do you need Photobucket, just post photos from your PC that's what I do, just make sure they are low resolution. 


Joe.

[Bob K]

Hi Joe.  The only photos I have ever been able to post directly on Mayhem is my Avatars.
My illustrations are between 60 and 100kb, max dimension 640 pixels.
Theoretically they should load, but will not.

[ballastanksian]

Send some to me Bob. I will host them on my Imageshack account until you sort out your issues. I will check how much my account costs as I beleive it to be much less than you have been asked for.

Definitly enquire with Martin how he does it, you may need to find a way to form a photo sizing template to allow your images to upload here. I imagine a Photoshop like program will allow you to do this.

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Bob,  try an experiment.

Start with a very low resolution picture of maybe 5k and if that works, then start increasing the size until it refuses to load.  I will be watching, so I can clear out any detris.  Assuming , of course that you have a reducing program at home.

Hopefully we can resolve this.

Cheers

ken

[Bob K]

Thanks Kenny.  I use Paint Shop Pro 7 which has many advanced features, plus I check the sizes in kb in the directory, and make sure the max size is 640.  They usually come out to around 80kb, depending on levels of sharpening etc.


For some reason the "attachments" section on Mayhem posts never seems to result in a photo being displayed.

[Rob47]

Bo
 yep, just opened my HMS Bristol log and got the same images as you, , yet it says IF you want to upgrade, not you MUST upgrade, just found it in terms and conditions, the old free account does not support 3rd party so just a way to raise money, must find another site




Bob

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

For some reason the "attachments" section on Mayhem posts never seems to result in a photo being displayed

We all use this system with no trouble.  I also use Paintshop pro.  can you try a really small picture this time.

ken

[Capt Podge]

For some reason the "attachments" section on Mayhem posts never seems to result in a photo being displayed.

Hi Bob, I had that problem once - the solution was thus: Use the browse facility (after clicking on Attachments), select the image, press "enter" on your keyboard.

That should work ok - don't click on "Post" as that will only post your text.

Hope this helps, just try a random image and see if that works...

Regards,

Ray.

[radiojoe]

Hi Bob if you check my photos on Brocklesby you'll see they are around 30 to 80 kb and 800 x 600,  I have no fancy soft wear to achieve this, I just highlight all the photos I want to post from the picture folder on my PC, then right click on them, a drop menu opens and I choose "send to" " mail recipient", a box opens offering to reduce resolution for e-mail, open the drop box and choose 800 x 600 and click ok then the e-mail opens with the photos added as attachments then I send the e-mail to myself, it comes straight back with the photos resized, I save these to a separate folder named Mayhem pics and they are ready to post on my build log,  it all sounds a bit long winded but it works and it costs nothing. 

Joe.

[derekwarner]

I must agree with Joe here.....'it all sounds a bit long winded but it works and it costs nothing' 

It's not even the zero cost, but you are guaranteed to have your images when you want them and will never be held to ransom by any Client Server

My digital images are typically 1.45mb, I re-size to 1025 x 577 pixels in Win7 which equate to ~~ 250>290mb which is just under our 300mb allowance

Derek

[Paul Swainson]

Just in case no one has mentioned it but most camera have setting to reduce the size of the picture to reduce the amount of space being taken on the SD card.  Look at the setting and see if you can reduce the photo size to 640 x 480,  that will be all you need to upload any pictures with out software to reduce them.  If the do not load ask Admin to check if your PC setting need to be changed to match their system to upload.

[Bob K]

Right now I am looking at text only to continue with this build.  I keep repeating myself but ...

All my images are under 100kb, with a max dimension of 640 pixels.

However, there is a problem in trying to load images in a Post to Mayhem.  The attach works, image paths appear in the dialogue box, but when you try to either Preview or Post all you get is red text warning of no content.
Add some text such as "test", it then it goes through but with no picture.  Been trying this for several days now.
Seems to work for some people, maybe with different browsers / O/S maybe?

Right now I am playing with IMGBox.  Everything uploads neatly, but the only linking facilities appear to be clickable text links or 'send to Facebook' etc.  No images being shown.  I shall persevere.

[Paul Swainson]

Test post for photos from Windows 10 Pro and using Google chrome

[Paul Swainson]

I have loaded a photo direct from PC to your block, what operating system have you, and what Search engine do you use.

[Bob K]

TEST PICTURE 

image loaded as an attachment in Mayhem dialogue box. Correctly sized image shown as linked, and listed as an attachment. 
However, does not show in either Preview or Save. 

Whenever I use the IMG link from Photobucket the same image appears in both Preview and Save
Why ?    Using WIN 10 and IE 11

[radiojoe]

test