Topic: Totnes Castle 1884 (Read 31025 times)

hammer · « **on:** November 02, 2017, 11:48:44 am »

I started to build a model of Totnes Castle in 2013. But got side tracked by other projects. I already have 2 paddle steamers 5ft & 6ft, I need a smaller model for the clubs new pond so 10mm = 1ft will be a boat of 850mm. If my method of building has been seen you will know I don't use conventional plans, I draw on the building board & the model, as I go along.
Scraped off all the spots of glue & painted out the marks left on the bench (slipway) from Irene. Marked in the positions of the frames all ready to start.

Tafelspitz · « **Reply #1 on:** November 02, 2017, 01:44:19 pm »

This is going to be interesting

Starspider · « **Reply #2 on:** November 02, 2017, 03:48:32 pm »

Definitely interesting this one

Colin

hammer · « **Reply #3 on:** November 02, 2017, 04:01:55 pm »

It will be interesting for me as well. Sketched out the frames paddler lines are all similar, having built 2 its a good guesstimate. Not too fussy as will be cut from foam, to build an armature. The hull built on this not decided yet tin plate, wood fiberglassed or just fiberglass. Probable not the latter.

derekwarner · « **Reply #4 on:** November 02, 2017, 09:58:01 pm »

Ahah.....we see pictures on this WEB Forum

We also see that the Totnes had two accommodation/seating areas......the aft area is depicted with lavish diamond studded lounges, the fwd area also appears to have a head on the stdb side

Was this vessel subject to the British Class system as used in all forms of transportation?...you know 1st Class down to Steerage Class

So from this...was the fwd accommodation with the head 1st Class?

The paddle shaft axis indicates the wheels will be rather large......

As always .....looking forward to your build

Derek

hammer · « **Reply #5 on:** November 03, 2017, 10:04:02 am »

Thank you Derek, we can always really on you to be watching. Yes probably a class system in 1894 No one noticed at the bottom of the plans. I got the title wrong not 1884 sorry. On the section TDBWL indicates the correct depth of hull, I have increased depth for stability, as the steam plant will be heavy for this size model. As for the wheels they only have floats just in the water. Not visible as there is a elevation not shown here.

hammer · « **Reply #6 on:** November 03, 2017, 03:47:53 pm »

The original idea was for a larger model. I made an engine & boiler, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PsbzyY5hjQ the engine running. Like most engines it runs better one way, sods law its better in revers. Photo of both below. Unfortunately the boiler will not fit in the scale engine room. I will have to make a new boiler measuring 4.5+4.5. I have kept engine room to scale as I hope to fit out the saloons. We shall see, Cost of 4.5 copper tube may decide the issue.
Marked out the sections on 2" thick poly foam insulation. I will need 2 of each as its 85.5mm between sections, keeping silver backing on one side only. All the wooden parts framed up. Found bearings & a selection of gears in the scrap box. If you have seen my build you will know no work weekends. Derek the other elevation not shown before. From this you will see the wheels are not over large.

hammer · « **Reply #7 on:** November 06, 2017, 09:30:35 am »

Looks like Totnes will be on the back burner again. I almost fell down the cellar steps, I managed to save myself. But I dropped my paddle steamer Glen Usk. At 16 years old she could have done with a refit. Now its almost a rebuild. Along with most off the fittings on deck breaking away. The sponson stove in the hull, and some of the timber strips on the boiler slid forward.

derekwarner · « **Reply #8 on:** November 06, 2017, 10:03:28 am »

Goodness...the ship can go in for a refit

.....just as well as the worker is OK

.......keep us posted RGY........

Shall we all chip in a few Bob & bring over a case of Cider for medical assistance?

Your friend..... Derek

Tafelspitz · « **Reply #9 on:** November 06, 2017, 10:34:20 am »

Oh my dog, that sucks

But good thing you are OK, though.

hammer · « **Reply #10 on:** November 06, 2017, 05:07:57 pm »

I can reinsure you Derek I had not had any zider on Sunday. I also fell at the club landing stage as well landed on my wallet so no damage. Having returned to the shop things don't look so bad today. I have managed to get Glen Usk on the slipway beside Totnes Castle. So work can continue in tandem. Started cutting & fixing the foam. I remove all the silver backing except for the actual side in the number section position. I will the sand down to this. The centre cut out just to make it essayer to remove completely after the hull is finished.

hammer · « **Reply #11 on:** November 07, 2017, 03:48:02 pm »

Glen Usk hull 7 boiler sorted, just a bit of paint & the deck fittings remain.
T.C. hull ready for shaping. Experimented with melting solder on a piece of tin, the foam didn't catch fire or melt. So I am making the hull from tin plate, I hope.

hammer · « **Reply #12 on:** November 08, 2017, 11:51:41 am »

No plat today. Just found the big soldering iron, which I will use instead of the burner. Turned the model over, just have to knock off the lumps till I can see the silver backing.

hammer · « **Reply #13 on:** November 09, 2017, 02:29:26 pm »

Cut off most of the excess foam with a knife. Then into the garden, standing up wind, removed the rest with a blacksmith's rasp. total time about 5 minuets. Started on the deck, making my own ply, consisting of 1/16" balsa with hard wood veneer on the bottom & deck planks on the top.

hammer · « **Reply #14 on:** November 10, 2017, 04:46:11 pm »

Ply for the deck veneer on both sides now. I am hoping this will set the shear on the model without fixing. It will be removable as with steam plenty of room & quick access is required.
The marks on the foam are the run of the plates. I don't know if I will be able to complete the hull in tin plate. but that's the plan at the moment.
Derek I know you are watching, the bagatelle on the bench is for grand kids Christmas.

derekwarner · « **Reply #15 on:** November 11, 2017, 01:50:10 am »

Yes of course I always enjoy watching your builds RGY ......not sure what a bagatelle is ??...we don't use the name in Australia

Now a Tin Plate hull

.....this will be amazing....I have attempted a few brass shim constructions [water tanks & the like] & found that very difficult to complete with soft solder without 10BA screws holding the joints together during the soldering process

Some 50+ years ago in Metal Work at High School...we folded tinplate, tinned the adjoining edges, & sweated joints and all with Plumbers 1lb copper soldering irons heated with Coal Gas ring burners

[imagine the H&S pickers looking at that these days].....[just show them a Video.....what great training

]

So I await....we can all learn something new every day...............

Derek

hammer · « **Reply #16 on:** November 11, 2017, 06:22:51 pm »

Derek, Perhaps you would call it a pin ball game. Although there are no lights or bells. As for the tin plate I will be learning also. I will show if it all goes horribly wrong.

Brian60 · « **Reply #17 on:** November 11, 2017, 08:11:53 pm »

Bagatelle, as you can see, made for a table top, much smaller than a true pin ball machine and predates them by decades..

hammer · « **Reply #18 on:** November 14, 2017, 10:17:22 am »

Thanks Brian for educating the colonials. Drawn the plans on the sub deck, no problems there. Started the plating always work from the stern, unfortunately the most difficult part. But if I can manage here should be no problems with the rest. Cleaned off the tin with brake cleaner, before & after shown.
Work will be delayed a little as I have my nurses uniform on again. My wife has just had her 5th opp in 4 years, if I can look after her half as god as she looks after me I will be doing ok.

Brian60 · « **Reply #19 on:** November 14, 2017, 07:06:33 pm »

Freudian slip with God?

I'm waiting to see how well this plating goes - I'm expecting great things from which I can learn

hammer · « **Reply #20 on:** November 15, 2017, 05:19:04 pm »

She is Brian. The patient slept most of yesterday, so managed a little play.
Cut and joined 3 plates, beet to shape on the padding on my stool. Cleaned the edges with sand paper & steel wool. Tinned where they join, big soldering iron is ideal. Seeing as I may have success I will now fit edging around the top to strengthen the edge of the tin.
The reason for tin plate, I have a plan of the Duchess of Fife specifying this method. I was afraid to try before now.

derekwarner · « **Reply #21 on:** November 15, 2017, 11:00:57 pm »

Is this a bag of those plastic tipped Drawing Pins?....so just thinking

....tin the adjoining edges of the tin strips. lay one over the other at the correct spacing or alignment...drill two 1.5 mm diameter holes toward the ends of the overlap....

push one of those plastic tipped pins into each hole...

The pins will be partially supported by the foam..........

Place your left thumb and left forefinger pressing gently on the pinheads, sweat the strips together with the iron in your right hand

Remove the pins...& spot solder over the holes

Don't you came back & tell me you are left handed

Derek

hammer · « **Reply #22 on:** November 16, 2017, 03:28:52 pm »

Almost what I have in mind Derek. I will be using pins but not fancy ones as I only have 2. I will be sorting out some others from the rubbish shown. A small spot or two of polyurethane glue holding the plate after the pins are removed. Soften the solder & push together with a stick. I will be starting again with the garboard strake, an inner. The pair have been cut & taken almost half a can. Six a side plus the keel plate, so will be cutting two more cans. Can use the wife's tin opener now I'm in charge. Last time used a hammer & chisel. I have removed the original plates shown as they will be outer plates later. I will get a complete line ready, then solder all at once. (I HOPE). Not my plate drawing.
Another experiment for me anyway. The deck planks need to bee about 3/16th wide to be scale. I had to paint the sundeck railings black. I painted three strips of offcuts a clamped them, paint stuck them. After sanding, another problem solved.

derekwarner · « **Reply #23 on:** November 17, 2017, 01:05:28 am »

Ahah

...a hull plate expansion Drawing......a lost art........in years to come no one will remember how these were created in the upstairs Lofting Room.......all true & full size

A mate did his Apprenticeship as a Shipwright at the Whyalla Ship Yards in South Australia [a division of Australian Iron & Steel or later BHP] & the bulk of his time was in the Loft

Some 30 years ago, this bloke taught me how to project and make underwater lines from just a few bare profiles.......it's like magic

Navi-CAD software can perform the same result.......but it's just punching numbers without understanding the actual process

Would you like me to post over a packet of plastic headed pins?

Derek

hammer · « **Reply #24 on:** November 17, 2017, 09:29:44 am »

Derek, as generous as ever, I could buy some cheaper than the cost of the post. So thanks I will manage with my rubbish. I will be avoiding leaving pin in when soldering as for sure as eggs is eggs, I would solder them to the plates.

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Author Topic: Totnes Castle 1884 (Read 31025 times)