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[Capt Podge]

Hi All


I'm a bit chuffed this afternoon - the rail is finished and I'm a bit made up the way its turned out.  This is one happy builder 


Cheers Mark

... and very much deserved for the huge amount of effort you've put into it.
Agree that you should protect your build thus far Mark.


Regards,
Ray.

[Mark T]

Thanks very much Ray - and your right I am going to protect it first     I've been looking through the instructions and plans for the first time in ages.  I don't normally get this much done so quickly but being furloughed does have its benefits 


So next I need to make the scupper plates and alter the brass port holes for the hull a bit and then then fun starts!  I can airbrush the metal plates a bit to try and dull them out.  I don't know how that will go but you've got to try.  Then a coat of matt poly and then onto the superstructures and I've a lovely piece of boxwood to make that out of 


Oh and I've messaged Simon at the propshop as the one supplied in the kit doesn't even have the hole in the middle 

[Capt Podge]

Oh and I've messaged Simon at the propshop as the one supplied in the kit doesn't even have the hole in the middle 

 


How did that manage to get past inspection 
Just as well you didn't need it urgently.


Regards,
Ray.

[Mark T]

Well I never did manage to get the resin on today as I realised that there are a few small parts that need coating too.  So I had a go at making these instead so that I don't have to keep on mixing resin to often.


I started with the anchor windlass and looking at the plans it does not sit tightly to the forecastle deck.  Its levelled out on a couple of small feet so I sorted that out first





Then I made the other small wooden parts that make up the windlass.  Its small stuff being 4x4mm so I used hardwood to try and keep the edges sharp. I also made the shaft support




















And whilst I've been typing this out I've just realised I've put the feet on the wrong side of the base     Ha ha I'll sort that out tomorrow 


I also made the bow bollard which is made out of 12mm ramin dowel.  I wanted to change this to boxwood but I don't have a lathe so ramin it is!  I did make a 15mm mahogany cap for it though on the mill and I think its come out ok.  It also has a 4mm brass rod running through it.











So tomorrow I'll sort out my little error and also get the resin on too


Cheers Mark 

[Mark T]

Hi All


Just a quick up date of where I am - I've been spending loads and loads of time sanding the entire hull down top and bottom getting it ready for its final coat (ever I hope)


I've also been working on the anchor windlass - I started by giving the base a coat of dark grey and then a wash of black





I then discovered that the windlass friction brake was not tapped out to accept the tightening mechanism to I ran a 2m tap down it





And then I lost all of my photo's     So here it is finished     I've never really tried ageing things before so this is my first attempt.  The windlass itself is really nicely cast and I'm sure that with a bit of thought it could be made to work.  I'm happy with it and its better than all of the detail being lost with it just being gloss black














Then I had to dull down the brass/copper/aluminium band on the hull.  Again I've never done this before so I did my best and I think it looks ok.  Its no where near as good as some of the very experienced builders on here do but its my attempt.  It also got 4 coats of matt polyurethane from the keel up to the edge of the main rail.  So that is the final coat on the bottom of the hull unless it gets damaged.











I reckon that its going to take a good week to fully cure but thats ok I've plenty to be getting on with.  The plan now is to get on with the superstructure whilst this is drying     Once it is dry I'll flip it over and probably spray the the rest of the hull.  Then fit the anchors, anchor windlass, anchor chains, mooring bollards and the bow bollard.  I'm pretty sure that I also need to make part of the deck removable for the motor but I need the superstructure built to see where the cuts will be.


Mark 

[Capt Podge]

You've done well to get the windlass sorted Dave, I'm guessing you've done a fair bit of dry brushing to achieve the 'used' look on it.


Regarding the hull, you must have a load of patience to be able to achieve such stunning results - well impressed 


Regards,
Ray.

[Mark T]

Hi Ray - To be honest I'm never in a rush to get finished so time is always on my side.  I've been very grateful for the last fews weeks though as its nice to get onto the superstructure


As for the windlass the only dry brushing was on the wooden base and I only gave that a quick going at.  What I did was put all of the brass parts into a sealed container with a few drops of vinegar and salt and left them for 24hours.  They come out all sorts of colours and I brushed them with a small wire brush until I was happy with their colours.  The parts were still to bright once I assembled them, so I gave them a quick blast of very thin black wash to dull them down using an airbrush.  It took about 30 minutes - thats it. Once dry they had a coat of the same matt polyurethane that I used on the hull.

[Capt Podge]

Well, I have to say that the techniques you have employed have given a good result.
The markings on the gypsies are just what I would have expected using drybrush work, so well done Mark. 


Regards,
Ray.

[carlfmiller]

Mark, I have to smile when I see you say that other more experienced builders might do a better job. I find it hard to believe there are better builders-- the work you do is unrivaled. I love the little windless, it looks terrific!  Your Anteo thread is very entertaining and instructive. (and inspiring)


Carl

[Taranis]

Mark, I have to smile when I see you say that other more experienced builders might do a better job. I find it hard to believe there are better builders-- the work you do is unrivaled. I love the little windless, it looks terrific!  Your Anteo thread is very entertaining and instructive. (and inspiring)


Carl

Plus 1

Amazing work

[Mark T]

Lads all I can say is that I think we have some amazing builders on this forum and they all inspire me to try harder - but thank you 


Today I made a start on the superstructure which has two levels.  The top level is wood clad so that makes things easier for me but the lower level is supposed to be painted white so I need to swap the plywood for solid boxwood so that I could varnish it.  Now I knew that I had made a mistake when I installed the deck beams so I thought it best to check the fit first.  I'm glad that I did as I was a mile off.  Here's a picture of the scribed line of my deck and it does not match the kit at all.  A simple fix but it had to be right as everything else follows and I can throw away the original parts.





After sorting out the correct shape of the lower superstructure I transferred this to some 3mm thick boxwood which I could then fettle to fit as best I could once cut out.





The apertures were cut on the mill and I've decided to leave the corners rounded as I prefer this look.





And then I ran the sides through a thickness sander just to tidy them up.  They are thicker than the standard ply - but I think this may help with the heat build up from the boiler





Now I know that I've made myself a load of work as I have to remake everything on the lower level but thats fine.  I want all of the doors, vent covers etc to be slightly open to get as much air to the burner as possible


And as a bit of light relief I made the mooring bollards for the forecastle deck








So what I'm waiting for is the hull to fully dry as I want to glue the superstructure together in situ as I want it to be straight and level as the rest follows upwards 


Thanks for looking - Mark 

[Mark T]

Its been a great day today as the postman delivered this piece of 60mm loveliness from the prop shop





And a few photo's to drool over - seriously I don't think you can buy a nicer propeller and the service is fantastic














Enough of that     The scupper plates are now finished and ready to install once the deck has been sprayed with matt polyurethane





And the reason for my delay in posting anything is because I've been having problems with the superstructure due to my own incompetence.  I'm remaking all of the lower sections out of boxwood and thought that it would be a good idea to laminate them to the original plywood pieces.  A great idea except the original pieces are all warped and this has carried onto the laminations.  I'm working my way through this problem but its slowed me down.  Its my fault and I really should have checked.  A few pictures but they need sorting out as I've had to unglue much of my work.











Its an easy mistake but it can be sorted     I also forgot to drill out the holes for the portholes in the lower superstructure!  So here we go - 14mm holes through 3mm hardwood.  I'm sure that most of you know this technique but just in case there are some new builders who don't know here's how.  The problem with big holes is tear out when the drill goes through.  It rips out the back of the hole splitting the wood so the solution is to use a sacrificial piece.  All you need to do is very tightly clamp a scrap piece if wood behind the hole that you are trying to drill.  You end up with a nice clean hole in your piece and the scrap takes all of the tear out.





My portholes from the inside which are nice and clean





The scrap tear out - sorry if you do this already I just thought it may help someone





Hopefully I'll have what looks like a wheel house early next week I just need to get things straight


Mark 

[rhavrane]

Bonjour Mark,

   Your masterpiece deserved this beautiful propeller from Simon (Protean Design now  )

[Capt Podge]

Well, it's a beautiful prop for a beautiful boat


As for the drilling holes - I've always had that problem but, not any more!


Thank you so much for posting your mini master class 


Regards,
Ray.

[Mark T]

Hi Raphael and Ray - On my last build I used Raboasesh (I can never ever spell this ) props and they are nice...........but this one is on a different level entirely.  Its lovely......a fantastic piece of engineering.  It was £28 which at the time I thought this had better be good and it is.  I won't go anywhere else ever again.


Glad I could help you Ray     I've made so many mistakes making panels on the wheel house you wouldn't believe     I just need to slow down and start measuring again........properly 

[southsteyne2]

Hi Mark looks fantastic and thanks for the tip on portholes
CheersJohn

[Mark T]

Thanks John and very glad I could help 


The superstructure is coming on ok - I like using engineers blocks when trying to make things square and so far its working





This is where I'm at now and its starting to look nice.  It is so strong at the rear I reckon I could stand on it no problem     Its not yet sanded down as thats still a way off




















And so now for the big question - did I get my calculations (estimates) right regarding the position of the boiler.  So first of all I popped the boiler into the hull.  I had to remove the motor as it would not quite go under the beam on the centre section of deck.  I'm not worried about this as this piece of deck is going to be removable








I'm very very pleased with that 








The pressure relief valve is right underneath one of the bulkheads.  Which actually is quite handy as I can make an escape pipe should the valve blow and use this bulkhead to firmly attach it too.  Maybe even have the exhaust just in front of the funnel - I'm not sure yet





So all in all things are still on track.  A couple of other things that I discovered are; the joint for the whistle on the side of the funnel will need to be moved as the models funnel won't fit over it centrally. I also need to extend the aperture for the boiler forward 5mm as the gas tank just won't quite slip in. 


I've decided to leave all of this fettling until the boat is finished as its not really going to knock it about very much.  So the plan now is to carry on with the superstructure and also get some polyurethane sprayed onto the deck


Mark 

[Taranis]

That's just crazy beautiful. Playing around with her must be like Christmas every day

[rhavrane]

Bonjour Mark,


Have you also already planned the fixing of the servos and their adjustment ?


Oups ! Why dis I ask this, the answer is obviously yes !


And do not forget the whistle 

[Mark T]

Thanks lads you are going to give me a big head 


I'm really enjoying this build and I'm now at last at that stage where I'm starting to see my efforts all coming together 


Today I've mainly been masking up ..........but the deck and a few of the smaller parts have had a coat of poly.  I've also been building up towards the wheel house which is quite a pretty thing; well it will be when done!!!


I've also ordered a short piece of thin walled aluminium tube 2" diameter for a £5 as the funnel in the kit is plastic.  I can't see that lasting long with the heat from the boiler.  I also need to think about how I'm going to get enough air in the hull for the burner.  I'm thinking about removing the wheel house floor and replacing it with metal mesh.  And also leaving all of the portholes open and the windows with no glass.  More things to think about.


Thanks again 

[bfgstew]

I also need to think about how I'm going to get enough air in the hull for the burner.  I'm thinking about removing the wheel house floor and replacing it with metal mesh.

How about a smallish 5vdc PC cooling fan to give a decent air flow in?

Looking good Mark.......👍👍👍👍👍

[rhavrane]

Bonjour bfgstew,
Based on my experience, a fan, especially from a PC does not bring enough air to the torch. I would kindly suggest you to do like suggested by Mark, all the portholes opened and no glass to the windows if possible. On my crawler steam transformed, we have added eyelets on the deck with colander iron as glass, also painted in deck color to partially conceal them. Afterwards, the result is everyone's taste :
       https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF0wzhtRIwE

[Mark T]

Hi Stew - Actually that IS what I was going to do originally as I really like this idea     


I was going to put it underneath the engine cover with the hatches open........but the problem is space for the batteries.  I'm struggling to get the receiver batteries in so I'm going to have to go with Raphael's idea and just have as many openings as possible.  If the burner struggles I'll have to think again!

[Mark T]

Bonjour bfgstew,
Based on my experience, a fan, especially from a PC does not bring enough air to the torch. I would kindly suggest you to do like suggested by Mark, all the portholes opened and no glass to the windows if possible. On my crawler steam transformed, we have added eyelets on the deck with colander iron as glass, also painted in deck color to partially conceal them. Afterwards, the result is everyone's taste :
       https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF0wzhtRIwE

Raphael that is such a lovely boat and it goes very well too 

[rhavrane]

Bonjour Mark,
Based on the Anteo I know, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrKd4jzpl30 I think/hope you won't have air problems, the hull is wide, deep and the openings of the superstructure large.