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[Mark T]

Hi Both thanks for the comments  - I wasn't sure whether it would work and to be honest they were very fragile until glued on.  It was one of those punch in the air moments when it actually did work.  I'll be happier when they have a coat of varnish that has soaked into the grain.  I'm going to try and get that done this weekend.

[Mark T]

I've now fitted the doors and the boiler house shutters.  As suspected I had fitted the hinges on the doors entirely wrong and I just could not get them to work.  So rather than remake the doors they are just glued on.  It's a real shame due to the amount of work that went into the doors and the apertures but hey .......some you win, some you lose.  The shutters open and close though so not all is lost.














I've also made the wheel house rail.  The stantions had to be slightly bent downwards and one of them snapped on me.  As I have no replacements I had to repair it which took longer than making the rail itself.  It came out ok but does look slightly different to the others.


Work in progress





The finished job











The rail does extend further toward the stern above the deck.  So at the ends I've soldered a couple of sleeves that this extension can slide into when I get around to it.  I now need to varnish the wheel house inside and outside.  Then fit the doors (these hinges do work), fit the instruments and then finally fix the wheel house in place.


Mark 

[Mark T]

Hi All


Another update on my Anteo.  I've now varnished the wheelhouse inside and out and fitted the doors that I had previously made.  I'm glad to say that they went straight on with no bother and open and close too 











I've also fitted the nice little spotlight on the wheel house roof





Also the instrument panels inside the wheel house - sorry about the bad picture





And finally the wheel house was glued in place permanently 














Thats just about all of the big parts built on this tug now apart from the mast being made and the funnel being finished.  So I'm going to start on the smaller details now and I'm looking forward to it too


Mark 

[KNO3]

Very nice. It's useful not to glue cabs in place though, but to make some sort of device to hold it down. You might need access inside later on (for repairs, adding something etc). One can use screws or little latches, or even a few of those strong Neodymium magnets.

[Mark T]

Hi All


I've made a start on the details of the build and I've started with what the plans say "water inlets"?  They look just like hatches to me but I'm sure that someone on here will know what they are.  The parts in the kit supplied were a plastic tube and plywood top see below








I think these would be great it you were painting the model but as I'm not I had to remake these parts.  I used boxwood for the top and a 28mm hardwood dowel for the base.  I also used a piece of 12mm ramen dowel for the very top of the hatch.  I thought it was a bit like making miniature toilet seats 





Next was drilling the 3 holes in the very top part.  A 3.2mm hole through the centre and then 2  - 0.8mm parallel holes through the sides





I placed some pieces of brass rod through the top parts when I glued them together to ensure that I had the correct alignment.  These were removed once the glue had set fully





Next the rear hinges were fitted and again I just used a small piece of brass to get good alignment





And the end result looks like this complete with the hatch lock fitted











Four units completed 





So that's one job finished and they should look better once varnished.  I'm currently experimenting how to get rope to fit nicely around the life savers which is proving interesting 


Cheers Mark 

[JimG]

Fillers for fresh water tanks? Fresh water needed for topping up boilers and for crew. The tug might not have distillation equipment  for fresh water.
Jim

[Mark T]

Fillers for fresh water tanks? Fresh water needed for topping up boilers and for crew. The tug might not have distillation equipment  for fresh water.
Jim

Hi Jim - yes of course!  That makes perfect sense to me 


Onto the lifesavers - I've tried a few techniques to get the rope around the edges.  I've tried tape, small cable ties and small diameter rope.  None of them worked very well and just didn't look right.  I've found the best way is to whip them on using cotton.  Its very fiddly and time consuming but I think that they look ok.  I've finished the cotton off with a few drops of cyano just to keep it in place.








What do you think?  One is done so another 5 to complete.  I'll do a bit at a time in between other jobs


Mark

[KNO3]

They look nice. You could write the ship's name on them too.

[Mark T]

They look nice. You could write the ship's name on them too.

Thanks KNO3 that's a really nice idea I think I'll look into that.  I'm sure that I've heard of a company that makes transfers for models I'll have to try and find them out.

[DBS88]

Fillers for fresh water tanks? Fresh water needed for topping up boilers and for crew. The tug might not have distillation equipment  for fresh water.
Jim

I believe some tugs had large water tanks fitted that enabled them to top up other vessels with fresh water supplies whilst in the harbour as part of their general duties, in addition to the pushing and pulling of vessels to manoeuvre them into position

[derekwarner]

This is absolutely correct DBS88.....


It is documented that our early Australian Naval vessels, when at anchor in Sydney harbour with shutdown/reduced steam capacity for [electrical] power and ancillaries only, and as such condensate plants associated with limited steam generation onboard dictated large quantities of additional clean water were required to be transported by Tug, or Water Tender


In 1913, our RAN acquired a 390 ton Tug Ripple and she served as a Water Tender to RAN vessels berthed in Sydney Harbour up until and during WWII


Mark

I went back to some old build threads to try & establish a displacement for the Anteo, and noticed a question from a 2015 Anteo build as to 'why are there so many water hatches on deck level?'.......well DBS88 has certainly answered this

Derek

[Mark T]

Thanks for the info lads that’s really interesting 

[B.B]

Hi Mark T , you can always learn something new , like the life ring idea  , The model is a credit to you.Cheers Brian

[Mark T]

Hi Brian thanks for the nice comment I'm getting there slowly but surely 


I've got quite a bit done so I'll put this up as two posts as its probably too many pictures just for one.  Thanks for the suggestions regarding the life savers as they are finished now complete with the name of the vessel.  In the end I used 2mm vinyl lettering from BECC which is very fiddly but they do look good.





Next I made the fire prevention water valves - there are 4 of them and they had to be identical.  They are made of 5mm x 5mm boxwood and 2mm brass rod and when fitted to the structure they sit away from the sides only to be held by the pipework.








And for those that are interested I made these on a simple jig to make the job somewhat easier








Next I made the cable rollers that are fixed to the edges of the superstructure.  I shouldn't have had to make these but the brass fittings supplied with the kit all snapped when I bent them     So I started making the bases first out of 0.5mm x 6mm brass strip





I then made the rollers out of 6mm brass rather than wooden dowel.  I don't have a lathe so I drilled the bearing holes on my mill.





And finally fitted the rollers using 2mm brass rod





I've got a few jobs to do now but I'll get some more pictures up later today


Cheers Mark 

[Mark T]

Got done a bit quicker than I thought 


Ok so the next job was to drill the holes to mount the fire valves.  I used the same template that I made them on for the hole alignment








Here with the valves, rollers and water inlets fitted and varnished too














Now hopefully you will all know that I do like to share my disasters too     My best one ever and I even have a picture to prove it.  When I mounted the port side valve I drilled the holes upside down.  Even though my jig clearly says "DECK" at the bottom.  Here you go have a laugh with me 





I filled the holes with some 2mm dowel so I've got 3 white dots on that side of the boiler house now - Oh well these things happen and to add to it, when I applied some varnish over the repair I had a reaction which has marred the finish.  I guess I must have left something on the surface.  Not to worry if I can't live with it I'll sort it out at a later date.


I've now made a start on the boiler house inlets.  I've swapped the suggested wooden dowel again for 12mm brass tube as I want these to actually work.








And to get them to fit onto the 6mm tubes that are already on the boiler house I glued in some 10mm dowel and then drilled out a 6mm hole





This is what they look like at the moment - not too shabby








So that's where I am at the moment.  The next jobs are to finish and paint the vents, make and paint the main towing hook and then I think I'll sort out the funnel.  I want to completely finish the superstructure before I move onto the last jobs on the hull.


Thanks for hanging on in there with me - Mark 

[Taranis]

So easy to hang in Mark    A feast for the eyes 

[Mark T]

So easy to hang in Mark    A feast for the eyes 

Thanks Andy     I'm very aware that I am Mayhems sloooowwweeesttt builder     Just a lack of time being away all week

[Taranis]

Quality comes first
Don’t rush it you’ll only start another 

[KBIO]

Hello!
Very clean work! 
Can be a reference for many of us.
Thanks for sharing.
Regards.

[david48]

Hi Mark
 Good to see  the build ........I wish I was getting on as well with radio ham studies.
Really good to see. Well done .
David

[KNO3]

Beautiful work again! And the life rings look perfect with the neatly lettered name on them.

[Mark T]

Thanks for all of the comments - David good luck with the HAM radio I'm sure you will crack it 


I've made a start on the funnel which has two white metal rings which need to be attached.  So I drilled out the mounting holes





And then drilled out the funnel and bolted the rings on using 1.6mm stainless steel bolts.  There has to be a gap between the ring and funnel so that the rigging can be fitted later





Both rings installed





And the funnel back on the superstructure.  I can't do anymore on this part until next week as I'm waiting on some brass to be delivered.





Next I assembled and painted the main towing hook.  It was nice to do a simple job for a change 








I then finished of the boiler house vents.  I know that they are supposed to be white with the inside being painted red.  But I thought that this would look really out of this place on this tug.  So I went for a copper colour instead which I think has turned out ok.








I blacked out the inside of the vent just before permanently fitting them on











So far so good 





So my next jobs are to finish the funnel and get it painted.  The lower half will be the same copper colour as the vents and the top being black.  I'm using heat resistant paint just in case!  Then I've got 5 ladders to make and install so loads to do


Mark 

[Taranis]

Which museum is she going in    fantastic

[KNO3]

The copper colour on the vents fits your wooden superstructures very well.

[Mark T]

Which museum is she going in    fantastic

    Honestly Andy I can't wait to get this steamed up and on the water! 

[/size]

The copper colour on the vents fits your wooden superstructures very well.

Thanks KNO3 it was one of those things where I just had to go with what I thought was best