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[DJW]

Meant to add.  LOA 86cm, beam 26cm.

[Taranis]

Fantastic info thank you for taking the time to share 
Interesting about the etched brass set as CMB said it’s not included
We’ll see tomorrow 


I plan on Raboesch sealed prop tubes. Your motor choice seems appropriate    I want to avoid water cooling myself

[DJW]

No problem. And re cooling, the motors seem to be running cool in testing, its the ESCs that are getting warm.


And 'we'll see tomorrow...' does that mean you've ordered one..?


 

[Taranis]

Yes arrives by UPS tomorrow and blog already started 
I found on my Shannon that my Turnigy marine ESC's did not need water cooling because the motors were only pulling half their rated continuous current.

[DJW]

Morning All


Planning to get first layer of planking over the transom, a little confused over the suggested approach in the Amati instructions, they seem at odds with a few of the other builds I've seen and with my version of common sense too...


Amati suggest (in this order) shape and glue the two mahogany profiles, then glue the two lower panels, then fill in with 'excess lime strips':








I'd have thought the mahogany profiles go on last, after the first and second layer of planking. I don't see the point of the lower panels as they're thin (1mm) compared to the lime planks (1.5mm), so when the mahogany layer is planked there will be a 'step' in the planking.


So I think its a case of lime plank the whole transom, bin the lower panels, and then shape / add the mahogany profiles after the mahogany planking. Or have I missed something...?  (@UKMike, any comments..?)


Best regards
David.

[Taranis]

https://youtu.be/V9KEszfwZ_w. 6 mins onwards




and https://youtu.be/dQF2lsaXASE

[DJW]

Morning Andy


Yes, that makes more sense re the planking.


Not that it makes much difference to the planking issue, but there are some differences on that transom, I'm not sure, that may be the earlier version of the kit, I think you and I have the current version.  Compare the lower section.


My transom looks like this:





Compared to:





Hope DHL get their act together today...


Best regards
David.

[Taranis]

I always take instructions with a pinch of salt. Common sense prevails 


UPS are the culprit

[ukmike]

Hello David.


Look at my build Page 5, Pict.0005 and Page 6 Pict. 0002. That's the way to do it and you will arrive at at Page 13 Pict CMG 0499 if that's the result that you are looking


for.


Don't bin anything, go by your first picture and disregard the second one, which is confusing, typical Amati.


Mike.

[Taranis]

Kit arrived
Just trying to check through the parts
The aftermarket etched set is the old parts comprising of two sheets
The one included in the kit now has all the same parts apart from F-09 is omitted ?


Question
Did your windscreen frame have a protective film on it
Mine has small scratches on port and starboard outer faces, is this normal ? Will they polish out?
Everything in the cockpit parts box was a jumble

[DJW]

Hi Andy


Pleased to hear you now have something to clutter up that impressive work bench...



OK, that makes sense re the etched parts. I have one physical etched plate, shown as two separate plates on the plans... And F-09 is not there.


My windscreen frame does not have any protection, but is not damaged either, it was in the general parts box so maybe I was just lucky...  I guess its either try to polish out scratches, or request  replacement part.  (On the up side, you won't be needing it for a while...    [size=78%]  )[/size]


And yes the seats and cockpit parts box was not in a good shape on arrival, nothing was in place. But I checked and there was no damage and nothing missing.


Best regards
David.

[DJW]

Hi Mike


Thanks for that reference to your build log, I should have checked before ranting...


So, nothing binned, and build progressing.   


Pics to follow when something to show.


Thanks and regards
David.

[DJW]

OK, stern has given me some issues.


Something looked odd, so I started measuring.


How about this, the two side pieces:





When viewed from above, are not the same thickness:





I've not noticed before, it looks like they're just different thickness ply, under a magnifying light the ply layers /construction is different.  When I use a vernier I get just over 8mm for the port, and just under 6mm for the starboard pieces. A lot of the Amati kit is laser cut, and pieces still 'in' the wood panel, then scalpel to ease them out.  I do recall these pieces were loose. They're just stuck to the flat transom frame panel, they only fit one way around, I can't see how I could have built in a 2mm difference...


@Andy, would be interested to hear if your pieces are same thickness..?


Anyway, some reshaping now done, port side has been taken down to match starboard, and the build makes progress.  Decided to use the lower panels in the end, if they shape correctly during sanding then fine.  If not, well plan b remains planking all the way down.











Hoping to get the planks trimmed up later today.

[Taranis]

I'm actually just assembling this jigsaw now. My parts came out of the same lasered sheet and I confirm are the correct thickness to fit the ribs.
I will be posting pictures of my order of assembly later today 


Meanwhile another question. The rear seat base panel that is removable! if assembled with the four parts the upright where your heels would be and seat base are not at 90 degrees. All the pictures indicate that it is?

[Taranis]

other question

[Taranis]

OK having just recapped the instructions I can see where you went wrong. That is I would say very unlucky like my frame 4 
Each side is made of TWO parts of different thickness. I believe you assembled two thin pieces and two thick pieces rather than one of each.

[DJW]

Doh...  And I think you're right...


 

[DJW]

And that motor cover assembly should be at that slightly odd angle.


I have seen it trimmed to 90° on other build logs.  To be regretted later.

[DJW]

OK, last update for this week.


Stern now planked, sanded and flush with the lower panels:








Inside of the lime planks now has a thinned layer of resin, that's going to have time over the weekend to fully cure, then next week onto sanding...








Great weekend to all..!

[VIC]

Hi i have just started building the Riva anyone able to guide me with location of
Drilling hole for water cooling  tubing electrics etc, how do you set the centres reply would be appreciated. Vic.

[DJW]

Morning Vic


Great to hear you also have the Aquarama in build. Would be great to see some pictures.


There's a message and pictures in post #76 and #88 of this thread that shows where I'm placing the prop / water pickup and rudder. But please not I'm placing props quite a long way forward compared to standard layout. If you're thinking of the internal drilling, that's there to save weight, and in some cases allow cable/ pipe routing. The large weight saving holes were just drilled where I can see they're going to be hidden, and won't weaken the structure. Then I've just 'dry installed' the various internal hardware to figure out where the cables / tubes need to run, and ideally will be hidden. It's easier to do this before planking.


Hope that helps. Feel free to PM me if you'd like any more info.

[Taranis]

For Vic This video (part of a series of 33 so far) One mans efforts
This episode shows his water cooling
https://youtu.be/5gQOpEUulj4


The dimension between propeller centre lines is 87mm as show on your plans

[DJW]

Morning All


Some small diversion from the main build, I know Mike has taken steps to seal the two stern hatches due to the boat producing quite a bit of spray, so have been looking at that on my build too.  Work in progress:





Also looking at the cabin upholstery, the patch of cream faux leather that comes with the kit is quite small.  I plan to rebuild the seats and cockpit / sundeck padding so have bought a square metre of thin faux leather from Amazon (£7.00) so I make sure everything is made from same material.  Also the cabin floor is work in progress. Amati provide it as normal ply, with instructions to Mahogany stain it... I tried a couple of stains, it came out purple both times. So I used 0.5mm mahogany planks, then sealed and varnished, most of it will be hidden, but we'll all know its there..!! :





And the sound system...  I'm not 100% sure about this. It's adding back weight, but I'm try hard to save in other areas. Part of the real Aquarama experience is the two V8s... So I'm playing with the Mtroniks V8 sound unit, it's marketed for vehicles, but is waterproof, as is the speaker and comes in two versions, one with gear, and a more boat friendly version, without gears.  It has a startup sound, then a proportional V8 sound, and it has a volume control so as not to frighten the ducks.  I've added a tube to the speaker to make the sound deeper, and then when its in the front cabin structure the reverb (or whatever that effect is) makes the sound quite deep and V8 like.  And the speaker weighs 30 grams.  I'm going to build in support for it, but make it removable without using a hammer.








Back to work...

[Taranis]

I think I will be using yet another ESS Dual for this. This one was a freebie due to an eBay seller shipping error

[DJW]

Busy with some work in the real world, but here's a view of the hull picking up the chine line:





But for the Aquarama its sanding, sanding, and some more sanding...
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And tomorrow, there'll be some more sanding...