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[DJW]

Hi Ray, thanks for that.  I'm getting some of the easier upholstery replaced as I figure out how best to work with the materials. Working up to the seats, the Amati originals are similarly overweight and will allow a good saving, but they're going to be a challenge to get right.  I do have the benefit of seeing how others on the forum have approached the Aquarama upholstery (UKMike) and will see how I get on.


Few more grams coming off the boat today, but not exactly what I'd been aiming for...


Decided the fenders have to be replaced, so first task is getting them off without damaging the hull:





Then some surgery with a couple of planes and sanding blocks...





Hard lesson learnt.  Measure twice, cut (or in this case glue and varnish 10 times) once.


Regards to all.
David.

[Mark T]

Hi David - I saw your last post and I though just sleep on it and really think about whether the job needs doing or not.  That was such a.difficult decision for you to make especially due to the finish on the hull. 


What a great decision     So much work and effort has gone into this build and you may have looked back at a later date and wished you had done it anyway.  Great work and patience 

[DJW]

Hi Mark

Yes, the work has to be done. Mike sent me this pic which shows the waterline in relation to the fender strips and where the waterline meets the bow.

Looks very good when done correctly.
Best regards
David.

[Stuw]

Oh. Well recovered - I think I might have shed a tear / kicked the cat after all that work!!

[DJW]

Afternoon All


Not much in the way progress update...  I've taken delivery of some 10mm Chromed brass tube to make new exhausts, but not made em yet...  I've ordered some half round (4mm x 2mm x 300mm) brass to make up some more convincing rubbing strips, but its not arrived yet...


I've started to think about the waterline.  At the moment I have a spray can of Plastikote white primer, and another spray can of Plastikote (off) white gloss.  A gloss red plastikote spray can, and a pot of same red... Some low tack frog tape, some tamiya 10mm masking tape, some 3mm red trim tape and a load of thin plastic sheet to protect the hull.  I'm planning to spray the whole underside of the hull white, with a red pinstripe around the waterline.  I have a laser level to give me the line, and have marked up the hull at bow and stern.


I'd like to match the proportions and precision of the picture a few posts up. I think where the waterline crosses the chine, toward the bow will be the main challenge as the red pinstripe will have to change shape to give the illusion of still being a line when viewed from the side.


Question is, how best to do it...


1. Spray the white coats, then use red pinstripe tape.  Sharp lines / edges, but not good at the chines...
2. Instead of the pinstripe tape, mask and spray / brush paint the red.  Better at the chines maybe.
3. Spray the white primer, then spray a red line larger (wider) than required, then use some tamiya flexi tape to cover the red I want to keep, and spray the white gloss...


Or another approach.  Any thoughts..?


Best regards to all.
David.

[Mark T]

Hi David


Just my thoughts for you.


Spraying the white colour is the easy bit it's the pin stripe thats the pain. To do the pin stripe I would firstly paint the white and then leave it for a couple of weeks to cure.


I then use 3M pin striping tape and lay this exactly where I want the pin stripe to be.  The 3M tape is plastic and stretches very easily and you don't want that to happen to lay it where you want it carefully.


Once I'm happy with the position I run another strip of this pin striping masking tape either side of the one that I want.  Then remove the middle tape and after masking the whole thing up you can spray the line.


This is the way that I do it but there are loads of different ways to do this - good luck!

[DJW]

Hi Mark


Excellent plan.  I can see that working well.


I'll look for some 3M pinstriping tape the right width, and get on with the main white coats in the meantime.


Thanks..!
David.

[Mark T]

Hi David


This has worked well for me on a couple of occasions - but its seriously fiddly and I can't emphasise enough how important it is to not stretch the tape.  3M tape is by far the best for this job but either way you will get a bit of a lip of paint either side of the tape.  I've always blended this in using quite a lot of clear top coat but I'm not sure how that will work with the varnish that you are using.  I guess its a case of try it off the boat first and see if you are happy with it


Mark

[DJW]

Hi Mark


Ok, understood, and I'll test each step on a test piece before the hull.


Can I check with you. Is this the tape you're referring to..?



Thanks
David.

[Mark T]

Yes mate this is the best stuff for what you want to do.  Here’s a tip - don’t lay the roll on anything dirty or dusty as the whole of the side of the roll will become contaminated. Use the roll and then put it away to keep it clean. Good luck you’ll be fine 

[SteamboatPhil]

A good tip Mark, thank you

[DJW]

Agreed, thanks Mark. I'll get some on order.

[DJW]

Evening All


Started on the waterline and painting of the underwater section of the hull.


Started at the transom, the line measured up from the exhausts, then a laser to get the line. And then masking tape to create the edge. I'm using yellow low tack frog tape for this stage.


Marking the laser line with tape.











Then applying the tape line





And remove the small markers, you can see how far I was off with the stern fender stips... I've decided to add these back later...








And then I cleaned the hull with white spirit, added some protection to the rest of the hull... and sprayed white primer...





Finish on the primer is looking good so far. I'll inspect tomorrow when it's cured overnight.





On a separate note...  the flag in the background is from the 200th anniversary of the battle of trafalgar in 1805. I was lucky enough to get a 'gold' flag, that allowed me to be part of the pleasure boat fleet that dipped our ensigns as we did a sail past of the Queen who was aboard HMS Endurance in the solent...  Back in the day...


Regards to all.
David.

[DJW]

Adding a few more thin coats of primer, I've used some filler to fully smooth where I had to remove the fenders. Really pleased with the finish it's giving and looking forward to getting a real gloss coat on.

[Mark T]

Very clean job David it looks great just get that masking tape off ASAP whilst the paint is still wet.  The edge will crack otherwise

[DJW]

Hey Mark, OK, so I need to get the gloss on sooner rather than later, then the tape off, is that what you're saying..?
Thanks
David.

[Mark T]

Hi David - I always spray and then give it 10 - 15 mins and then get the tape off.  If I need to repaint or lacquer I'll reapply fresh tape.  Its a real pain but if you let paint dry with the tape still on the edge will usually crack as you peel the tape off.  Always take the tape off whilst the paint is still wet.  It is possible to get away with it if the paint dries but thats luck not judgement.

[DJW]

OK...  Well I'll try getting it off in the morning and see what happens, it's in my outside office / workshop and I can't get to it  right now. I'll have to make good this time but noted for future coats.


Thanks for the input, it's appreciated...
Last boat I built was abut 40 years ago, a multi racer with a Webra 61, not a piece of wood in sight...  so this Aquarama is a bit of a learning curve.

[Mark T]

Hi mate and don't worry it's just one of those things.  I've been lucky enough to do my fair share of car bodywork and spraying with the pro's.  They always remove any tape whilst everything is still tacky.  It just peels of nicely and if your really good you can smooth down overlaps with your finger.  I reckon that you'll be ok with the primer but top coat dries much harder.  Good luck I'm sure it'll be ok    - let us know how you get on.

[Capt Podge]

Another little tip - when removing, peel the masking tape back against itself, less chance of paint lifting that way. 


Ray.

[DJW]

Thanks both..!  Next exciting episode tomorrow... 

[DJW]

Ok. Several spray coats of white gloss, and the tape removed before it cures.


Some minor snagging but mainly a clean line. As suggested by MarkT I'll now leave for a week or so before masking up for the red line.








Pleased with the result so far. 

[Stuw]

It’s looking great.

[DJW]

Thanks for that Stuw.


While that white cures I'm reworking the exhausts, originally I made out of Aluminium, I thought they really need to be chrome.


So ordered some 10mm OD chromed brass pipe. Its a bit heavy duty (8mm ID) so I've run a 9mm drill up the inside to thin the walls to 0.5mm, then shaped to the stern 'rake':





I'll make up the second, then they need a water inlet pipe and the the exposed end needs a red finish on the inside...


The brass strip in the above picture is the 4mm x 2mm half round that arrived yesterday.  I think its going to be perfect for the rubbing strip.  Needs shaping, drilling and chroming. I'm thinking I might need to make a jig to get a drill to go straight through the middle, repeatedly...)





Best regards to all
David.

[DJW]

Quick update. Both exhausts are now cut and machined. The flanges are from the Amati kit, just need a little shaping to fit against the stern. I'll be using 2mm screws to secure when they're ready.