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[John W E]

Hey Martin

the boat is looking great - 

aye
john

[DickyD]

Grieves me to agree with John but on this occasion he is right Martin. It doesn't often happen. 

It's looking great. Are you sure its the right way up seeing as you is doon under ?  :-\

[Martin13]

It's looking great. Are you sure its the right way up seeing as you is doon under ?  :-\

Not sure Dicky :-\ Been doon under for so long - its' a change to turn the hull over

Martin doon under

[Martin13]

After measuring and marking out, I drilled the 2 holes into the transom below the shelf to fit the brass tubes for the transom flap control rods. The Brass tubes were then epoxied into place and after set, P38 added for extra strength. The control rods were made with clevises and connected to flap assembly. The control mechanism for inside the hull was also made up and can be seen on mate below the hull.

Martin doon under

[Martin13]

After installing the control rods through the brass tubes and connecting up to the transom flap, I had a few problems. Initially the brass tubes extended the hull by about 35mm (1, 1/2 inches). The Flap was designed to move a maximum of 15 degrees up or down but noticed that now and again, one rod was sticking in the tube. At this point, I reduced the length of the brass tube to extend the hull by 5mm or 1/2 inch and operated much better.

I was still unhappy with the setup - the clearance between the tube and rod was quite small and could see that if any muck got caught on the rod, the rod may jam. Also I did not like the rod thread extending above the clevis at the transom flap (see previous photo's) - did not look good.

So, I pulled the whole lot out and started again.

This time I installed brass tubes with ample clearance for the rods to pass through and also made up new control rods and Clevises.

I'm a Happy Chappy now - much better;D

[Martin13]

Next step was to make up 2 brass mounting brackets for the control mechanism inside the hull - the photo is self explanatory combined with Bluebird's early drawing for the setup - only needs a servo and control arm to be installed, but need to setup rudder control arms to see what space I have and where to place servos.
I also need to install motor water cooling pickup's - forgot about these - thanks Bluebird.

Martin no longer itchin doon under

[Martin13]

And one more photo

Martin doon under

[John W E]

Good evening |Martin doon there - cos it's night time there isnt it my mate....by you are doing well on this build.

Can I make 2 comments Sir;

Looking at the photograph showing your propellers and P brackets side view; I noticed that the bushes on the P brackets - leading edge or the face that is going to face the flow of the water when moving forward is still square - should this be shaped similar to a bullet to ease flow through the water?

2nd - looking at the linkage support inside the hull where you have the 2 brass supports P38 stuck to the transom - can we not think of some form of plywood shelf - this would support these pieces of brass rather than the P38 as when the P38 really goes off hard.....it may become a bit brittle and if your model takes a bump on the flap - it may snap these off....food for thought my mate.....but hey its definitely looking GOOD!!!

aye
john e
bluebird

[DickyD]

Thats coming on well Itchy, very impressive.

That John doesn't miss much does he ?  ::)

[John W E]

No, Scratchy he doesnt 

[Martin13]

Good evening |Martin doon there - cos it's night time there isnt it my mate....by you are doing well on this build.

Can I make 2 comments Sir;

Looking at the photograph showing your propellers and P brackets side view; I noticed that the bushes on the P brackets - leading edge or the face that is going to face the flow of the water when moving forward is still square - should this be shaped similar to a bullet to ease flow through the water?

2nd - looking at the linkage support inside the hull where you have the 2 brass supports P38 stuck to the transom - can we not think of some form of plywood shelf - this would support these pieces of brass rather than the P38 as when the P38 really goes off hard.....it may become a bit brittle and if your model takes a bump on the flap - it may snap these off....food for thought my mate.....but hey its definitely looking GOOD!!!

aye
john e
bluebird

G'Day John,

It's 9:30pm to be exact and after a rotten day at work, my arms are ready to drop off - too old for this sh#t.

Comment 1. The P Brackets have been filed down to more like a bullet as you once suggested that I should do. See the area where the paint is missing. It's been filed down roughly at a 45 degree angle. Do you think I should decrease the angle (that is, take off more paint) and attempt to flare even more - your thoughts please....On the weekend, I'll see if I can take a couple of photo's from a better angle of the P Brackets.

Comment 2. I have taken a straight on shot of the linkages inside the hull but it looks messy (starting to get proud of my work - on an ego trip). Beneath the 2 Brass supports, I epoxied a length of 6mm square hardwood to aid alignment and support. Firstly, I epoxied in the brass supports with a reasonable filler around them before applying P38. The brass supports fitted into the 8mm transom by about 6mm was then back filled with more epoxy then only a light smear of P38 - This can be seen on the last photo above transom shelf.

Do you believe I require more support to the brass mounts?? Maybe a piece of brass or wood from the Brass support close to pivot point back down at a 45 degree angle and epoxied to the transom.?????

Your thoughts and comments are most appreciated as it will aid me in making a better model :)

Martin doon under

[Martin13]

Thats coming on well Itchy, very impressive.

That John doesn't miss much does he ?  ::)

Thanks Richard - your right again, John doesn't miss much and I'm glad of it.

Martin

[Martin13]

Hi ya Martin doon under 

The One Pound Note UK sterling is not legal tender anymore  ???  We now have One Pound coins to replace the One Pound Note - 

aye john e

bluebirdy

Hey John,

You willing to swap a One Pound Note UK sterling for a One Pound coin ::) ::)

Martin doon under

[Martin (Admin)]

How was the 'trim tab'(?) operated on the real boat?
Do you have a picture of the full size?

[Martin13]

How was the 'trim tab'(?) operated on the real boat?
Do you have a picture of the full size?

Hi Martin No.1

I do have some pictures of the internals plus original drawings of the mechanical layout. The transom flap operational setup is quite complicated as hydraulics are also used. You can imagine the amount of stress on this flap with a boat going in excess of 50 knots.

That being the case, when I built the flap, I was quite generous with epoxy in its construction. I cannot see the flap or hinging mechanism failing (cos I made it so well) but the control mechanism may have to be built stronger - time will tell.

The rudder operational setup will be as the original. This layout suits my requirements for servo mounting etc.

Hope that answers your question.

Bluebird, where is my One Pound Coin

Martin doon under

[John W E]

Bluebird, where is my One Pound Coin

its on its way

[Martin13]

Bluebird, where is my One Pound Coin

its on its way

Does that mean I have to sent the note now Will do that on Friday Thanks Mate..

Martin

[DickyD]

Bluebird, where is my One Pound Coin

Martin doon under

He'll have to have the operation first to remove it Martin.
You should have asked for a 50 pence piece, we could have removed that with a spanner

[Martin13]

Bluebird, where is my One Pound Coin

Martin doon under

He'll have to have the operation first to remove it Martin.
You should have asked for a 50 pence piece, we could have removed that with a spanner

 

[John W E]

That must be the first time that 50 pence has been out of Dicks back pocket since 1970

aye

john

[DickyD]

That shows how wrong you are John, that decimal stuff wasn't made till 1971 so you are a year out   

[Martin13]

Can I make 2 comments Sir;

Looking at the photograph showing your propellers and P brackets side view; I noticed that the bushes on the P brackets - leading edge or the face that is going to face the flow of the water when moving forward is still square - should this be shaped similar to a bullet to ease flow through the water?

2nd - looking at the linkage support inside the hull where you have the 2 brass supports P38 stuck to the transom - can we not think of some form of plywood shelf - this would support these pieces of brass rather than the P38 as when the P38 really goes off hard.....it may become a bit brittle and if your model takes a bump on the flap - it may snap these off....food for thought my mate.....but hey its definitely looking GOOD!!!

aye
john e
bluebird

John, hopefully the next 2 photo's will answer your questions a little better.
Also the bearings for the center and outboard prop near side need to be swapped over.- my mistake.

Do you believe that the P Bracket housing needs further flairing??

Martin doon under

[Martin13]

OOPS - 3 photo's

Martin du

[John W E]

Hi there Martin doon under

Do I believe that the P Bracket housing needs further faring??  No not at all - it looks pretty good!!  What you may have to do is make a 'dome' shaped cap to fit in the end where you can see the recess (if you know what I mean) 

Hey its really looking nice my mate.

aye
john e
bluebird

[Martin13]

Hi all, time to update BB build.

Motor bracket mounts have now been firmly epoxied into place with motors removed.

Martin doon under