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[John W E]

The Lord give me these hands never to be idle
he gave me my mind never to be at a loss
he gave me my eyes to see
and with the three I will give you something to look upon that is beauty

well done my mate

John

[Hagar]

Thats deep Bluebird!

Nice work Martin. Glad to hear you are back on the case.
Just on question, Whats the length of her. ( and dont say 5" longer than vanguard, I dont know how long she is :-p )

[Martin13]

Thats deep Bluebird!

Nice work Martin. Glad to hear you are back on the case.
Just on question, Whats the length of her. ( and dont say 5" longer than vanguard, I dont know how long she is :-p )

G'Day Ian M

Have not seen you on the forum for some time - glad to see you again.

Thanks for your comments.
Brave Borderer is 1800mm or 72 inches long with a beam of 450mm or 18 inches. She's pretty big with plenty of room inside.

Modelling is fairly slow at the moment, fire season is not not over and swmbo keeps reminding me that the trees need pruning, plants need potting etc..

Boy, the things we guys have to put up with just to get fed

Martin doon under

[Hagar]

Been in the forum almost every day, just not posted much of late.
Been kit bashing. Still to cold to varnish my powerboat. Dont want the varnish going milky do we?

Nice boat. looking forwards to seing it done, Borderer that is.

Keep looking at our garden and thinking It could do with a bit of TLC, but more inclined to DDT !!

[fooman2008]

Martin,
Being a yank I am unfamiliar with BB, she is some kind of post WWII motor gunboat?  I have never seen someone make a trim-tab that could be adjusted underway, neat!   Normally, you would put a bearing or shim between the aft end of the strut and the propeller (the yank term would be trust bearing) to convey the propulsion to the strut and thus the hull.  If you put the thrust bearing on the shaft as it enters the hull the stress of the thrust from the prop(s) and torque will cause the shafts to whip and wear the struts prematurely.  Something as simple as an 'oilite' (damn what was that term? instead of a bearing it is a _ _ _ _ ? damn? sudden onset Alzheimers!) can take the place of the trust bearing and be fairly cheap. BUSHINGS that's it! oilite bushings!
Foo

[lscc61114]

Hi All,

I'm a complete noob to this site, you might be interested in my hobby website at www.perkasa.co.uk,

If anyone can contribute with Perkasa / Brave borderer info please get in touch.  I'd also like to publish some model photos particularily of this big scale brave borderer.

It looks big enough to have a firing bofors

Best Regards
Dave

[Martin13]

Ian M,

Yeah, I noticed that you have been logged on and like me, not posted much. Now the Bushfires have ended, I'm trying to catch up with the garden maintenance and pruning trees now that the Bushfires have ended. Currently I have about 80 cubic metres of prunings and only half way through the job. Swmbo purchased me a Pole Chainsaw and has made life a lot easier although my arms are ready to expire. Having a break for a few days and working on BB again.

G'day Fooman.

Glad you like BB which is similar to your PT boats only I'm building her as a Motor Gun Boat - no torpedoes at this stage. I'm attempting to build her as close to scale as possible hence the adjustable transom flap. I have installed bearings inside the P Brackets ( struts) as you have suggested.

Iscc1114,

Had a look at your website - well done.

Firing Bofors - the thought has crossed my mind, heh heh.

Will send PM


Martin doon under

[fooman2008]

Martin over on R/C groups there is a gentleman working on a 1/35th scale Fletcher class destroyer he is planning to have the five inch mounts 'fire' using a cam and motor system to simulate the recoil and firing cycle of the guns.  Let me find the posting and I put it on here.
Foo

[steve pickstock]

Martin and Iscc1114, you might want to have a look at the gas blowback mechanisms from Airsoft pistols. In case you aren't aware of them they work from various gas mixes to simulate the slide recoil - some of you guys are good enough to engineer a mechnaism to duplicate this and power it from a Sparklet's CO2 cylinder.

Please note I am not advocating discharging anything from these weapons just using the gas to power the recoil.

[fooman2008]

found the post here it is with a PDF describing what he wants to build.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11312433&postcount=313
If you've got a couple of hours read the thread, it is a nice build!
Foo

[Martin13]

Martin and Iscc1114, you might want to have a look at the gas blowback mechanisms from Airsoft pistols. In case you aren't aware of them they work from various gas mixes to simulate the slide recoil - some of you guys are good enough to engineer a mechnaism to duplicate this and power it from a Sparklet's CO2 cylinder.

Please note I am not advocating discharging anything from these weapons just using the gas to power the recoil.

Interesting thought


Might come in handy for those little children who must touch your model. Wouldn't it be great if the gun turned, recoiled then squirted water at the little blighter's

Martin doon under.

[Martin13]

found the post here it is with a PDF describing what he wants to build.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11312433&postcount=313
If you've got a couple of hours read the thread, it is a nice build!
Foo

Foo man,

Interesting build. Haven't read it all yet but bookmarked the page. Got side tracked by Bogstandards build of the Steam Turbine Engine - what a brilliant job - I'll keep on dreaming

Martin du

[Martin13]

Time for another update.

Now that the rubbing strip was fitted, this was sanded down to a nice rounded shape including  a piece on the transom. After large amounts of sanding it was time to make up the toe rail.

This was achieved by cutting 2 lengths of 3mm marine plywood about 6mm high on the bandsaw. I then slowly pinned and glued the toe rail around the edge next to the rubbing strip. When the glue had set, I then sanded the toe rail down to about 3mm high then sanded  a radius along the top edge.

A few other pieces were attached to the hull (bits that I forgot) and filled/sanded the rear superstructure section. Ready and just needs paint at last.

My first attempt at using Plasticard. Four doors were made up and fitted to superstructure. In the photo, you can see the two  doors under the shroud,

Martin doon under

[Martin13]

It was interesting making the doors. As I have said, this is my first attempt at using Plasticard. After I had cut out the shape of the door, drilled the porthole and sanded edges, I then held the door using modelling pins to a block of wood. I then cut a length of 1mm x 2mm plastic strip and held it in place around the door frame. Using weld-on or something similar, brushed around mating surfaces never too sure if I used enough or maybe too much. After about 5 minutes I removed the pins and lifted door assembly from block - the strip fell off   %$#@%

Since then I have been advised to leave it for an hour to set.

Time to start on bridge detail.yippee.

I made up the instrument and side panels from block balsa using various thicknesses. These were then carefully fitted and glued into place. After the glue had set, I then filed and sanded the balsa top edge down to meet the marine ply outer framework. In my eagerness to do this, I inadvertently sanded a bevel around the top edge of the balsa blocks - something else to fix. This will need to be repaired later as a plasticard shelf needs to be glued on top all the way around.

I have now started to cover the balsa with 1.0mm Plasticard sheet and strips.

For representation of scale  - can you see the 1 pound coin on instrument panel

Martin doon under

[andyn]

I think that £1 would be better spent buying a proper steering wheel for it

Looks superb, can't wait to see it going

[derekwarner]

Martin......the exchange rate is good @ the moment.....so take that silly £1 coin to Harvey Norman Travel $ Exchange & convert it into legal OZ money  ..............Derek...this week in Adelaide in the rain 

[Martin13]

Hi All, back again.

For the past couple of months I have been building Ammo Boxes and seeing that this is a fairly large model, the boxes will need some detail to look reasonable.

Around the superstructure there are in total 15 Ammo Boxes of three different sizes. 4 Tall Lockers, 10 small lockers and one slightly larger mounted forward of the rear Bofor.

The lockers have been constructed using firstly a balsa block covered with 1mm styrene. The 2 doors I used 2mm styrene for better definition. for all the various hinges, piping etc, I used Plastered as they had a better selection of profiles (and I was able to buy cheaper direct from the USA).
For the door locking arms - I used 1mm brass rod and 1.5mm brass rod for the door handles..

The 4 tall lockers consist of 86 parts each whilst the smaller lockers consist of 96 parts per locker.

As you can see I still have not finished constructing the lockers but hope to do so in the next week or so. After assembly, each lockers edges etc will be finished off but I believe they will look much better once painted.

Martin du

[Martin13]

Now the Three different Lockers

Martin du

[Martin13]

and the assembly line

Martin du

[DickyD]

86 and 96 parts each, you're barmy Martin. 

Excellent job though. 

[Guy Bagley]

PERSONALLY I WOULD HAVE MADE ONE OF EACH SIZE REQUIRED, , SILICON MOULDED IT AND MADE THE REST IN RESIN - BUT FINE WORK THERE MARTIN !

[dan]

brilliant jobs on the lockers mate 

[John W E]

neither wonder there has been no sound from you for the last couple of months  do you fancy making some more at 1:96 scale 

cracking job Grommet

[Martin13]

PERSONALLY I WOULD HAVE MADE ONE OF EACH SIZE REQUIRED, , SILICON MOULDED IT AND MADE THE REST IN RESIN - BUT FINE WORK THERE MARTIN !

G'Day there Guy,

This is a fairly large model (1800mm) and the tall lockers are 85mm high, 55mm wide, 25mm deep whilst the smaller lockers are 45mm high, 80mm wide and 35mm deep. I felt that building each individual locker, I would be able to add far greater detail than as provided via a mould. For instance, the gap beneath the handles would be filled using resin.

This model was originally planned as a full scratch build with only the stanchions being store bought. I like many others on the forum,  enjoy scratch building a model and if you look at other scratch built warships, you can see the detail built into the model. Mind you, I don't compare myself with these chaps as they are in a league of their own - but maybe one day.........

Thanks for your kind thoughts and ideas are always welcome....

Martin du

[Martin13]

Dicky and Bluebird,

The swmbo felt sorry for me in the shed whilst I was building the lockers so she let me into the house and am now building on the edge of the dining room table - never thought I would see the day.
My wife has the same idea as you Dicky, she thinks I'm crazy and I think I'm heading in that direction. As you can appreciate with so many bits, work has slowed a little and think that I need another couple of weeks to complete the lockers.

I sat the lockers on the model the other day and must admit - they do look good.

John, how many do you need at 1:96 ? I'm getting pretty good at this


Thanks everybody for your kind comments - I need all the encouragement I can get - or it's the nut house

Martin du