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[benjaml1]

A good tip as you have the engine apart is to paint the inside of the crankcase, it does help. You will also need to drain down and flush the engine through (I use petrol) at the end of a days running to remove all the emulsified oil from the crank case (I put a 1/2 tapped hole in the base plate) then pump some steam oil in the exhaust and turn the engine "backwards" a few times to pull the oil into all the valve gear etc.

Been quiet posting but still very busy. The weather has slowed my supplies down a bit but work continues. Excellent tip on painting the inside of the crankcase but I have taken it one step further. I am a devotee of the "original" JB -Weld epoxy & have done some tests diluting it with Acetone as a thinner. Yes, you guessed it, I'm going to "paint" the inside of my engine with thinned JB-Weld. It sets up like smooth ceramic & good for 500 deg F...  

[benjaml1]

Gnus, almost there now... Assembly lube ? Hypoy 90 gear oil as previously recommended ( thank you) or something special ... Steam oil or lithium based grease ?

Cylinder insulation...Cotton OK or again, something special ?

Ta in advance...

[benjaml1]

A good tip as you have the engine apart is to paint the inside of the crankcase, it does help.

So pleased with the quality of the Stuart paint, (especially the black gloss) I went ahead & used this for the inside of the crankcase. Great tip, many thanks... 

[benjaml1]

Another question: Would anyone recommend a dab of "Loctite" on the con rod screws ?

[derekwarner]

Loctite  - for whatever reason......the manufacturer Henkel market the same product in different countries under different part numbers ......however a ''Stud Lock" product post application of the correct Loctite spray primer would be a mechanically sound prospect

Depending on the size of the threaded components you may consider one of the BLUE Loctite product range as they are termed as 'demountable' or removable  

I would not like to try & undo a 10BA brass cheese head screw that had be bonded with "Super Stud Lock"   ......

As with soldering....cleanless is next to godliness when using Loctite products........ Derek

[benjaml1]

Loctite  - for whatever reason......the manufacturer Henkel market the same product in different countries under different part numbers ......however a ''Stud Lock" product post application of the correct Loctite spray primer would be a mechanically sound prospect

Depending on the size of the threaded components you may consider one of the BLUE Loctite product range as they are termed as 'demountable' or removable  

I would not like to try & undo a 10BA brass cheese head screw that had be bonded with "Super Stud Lock"   ......

As with soldering....cleanless is next to godliness when using Loctite products........ Derek

Thank you, so would you ( or any other learned member) suggest I use a thread locker on the con rod screws ? They're 7 BA slotted cheese head. I have spare hex heads also which may serve this duty well ??

[derekwarner]

benjaml1 ....you could calculate the scale torque required for a 7BA screw.......as compared to the full sized fastener...........but how do we apply this super small scale torque value? ....yes your calibrated thumb & forefinger  

When we come back to basics we are attempting to add a preload to the screw so it does not vibrate/fatigue & loosen......

Before Loctite type products were developed....engineering security relied on lock nuts & in many full sized engineering applications are still used today.....conversley I cannot think of too many large diameter bolted applications in full size marine engines where Loctite is used .....no flogging M160 diameter high tensile nuts with 14 lb hammers....just apply the computer controlled head tensioning jack rings.....tension the studs...........rotate the M160 daimeter nuts by hand to engage ....release the hydraulic stretch  & hey presto perfectly applied & uniform preload induced torque values

Miniature slotted or cheese head screws are clearly more difficult to tighten with any comprehension of applied torque [tension] over hex headed screws or nuts being tightened with close fitting [BA type] tube sockets

I have previously offered the BLUE Loctite product range for consideration....best wait & see if another member has an alternate recommendation .......Derek  

[benjaml1]

Thank you Derek, I have used both Red & Blue & commend your advice....  

On a side not, I'm having to lap this engine together, the tolerances being very close. Is that normal for a factory machined Stuart engine ?

[benjaml1]

Went with closed cell silicone rubber sheet for insulation...Now finished & turns over ( by hand) with a nice "Plop Plop" sound....

[benjaml1]

Condensate/Oil seperator. Exhaust entering & condensate/oil exiting tangentially to the receiver...

[benjaml1]

My reverse/neutral gearbox... However, I would like to thank Mainsteam Models for the original concept/idea...

[Martin (Admin)]

Is there an exposed diagram of how this engine works somewhere please?

[andywright]

Gearbox looks lovely, and the stainless pipe with the real flanges is the bees knees, absolutely stunning.
Andy

[benjaml1]

Is there an exposed diagram of how this engine works somewhere please?

I have the original ST drawing which I can post if you wish ?

[benjaml1]

Gearbox looks lovely, and the stainless pipe with the real flanges is the bees knees, absolutely stunning.
Andy

Thank you, I do try for perfection but the reality is that it is very hard work. There are others on this forum whos work is my inspiration...

Remind me to check my spelling also... "seperator"....

[benjaml1]

Is there an exposed diagram of how this engine works somewhere please?

[kno3]

Very nice work, the engine looks great painted and polished.
But why are you using two exhaust pipes? To provide better flow?

[benjaml1]

Very nice work, the engine looks great painted and polished.
But why are you using two exhaust pipes? To provide better flow?

Trying to reduce the backpressure on the engine to improve pumping efficiency.... Just another of my hair brained ideas... 

[Lesco]

I built this engine a number of years ago, and the Stuart Turner castings were lovely to machine. I have run it briefly on air, but never tried it on steam. I have one question. What level should the crankcase oil be? There is a screwed plug near the bottom of the main casting. Should the crankcase be filled to the point where oil would run out of this opening? I would also assume this port could be used as a drain to empty the crankcase, (assuming the engine can be tipped, and isn't permanently mounted in a horizontal position). Any recommendations will be appreciated.
 Fred Lesco

[benjaml1]

I built this engine a number of years ago, and the Stuart Turner castings were lovely to machine. I have run it briefly on air, but never tried it on steam. I have one question. What level should the crankcase oil be? There is a screwed plug near the bottom of the main casting. Should the crankcase be filled to the point where oil would run out of this opening? I would also assume this port could be used as a drain to empty the crankcase, (assuming the engine can be tipped, and isn't permanently mounted in a horizontal position). Any recommendations will be appreciated.
 Fred Lesco

Fred, From what I can deduce, the oil level should just run out of the screwed in plug.... actually it's just a brass slotted screw. The bottom of the conrods pick this up & splash it all over the place.... The "Sirius" has additions to the con rods to facilitate this action.... The engine can't be drained from there as it's a level plug & 90 weight will be slow. The oil must either be syringed out or the engine tipped sideways to drain out of the two top ports (much quicker.)
Too  much oil & you will lose power.... This is my assumption, however I will confirm with Stuart prior to firing her up but I'm almost positive...

[SteamboatPhil]

Don't forget, not only to drain (a large drain plug on the bottom plate is a good idea) but you will need to flush the engine through as well to remove any emulsified oil. 

[benjaml1]

Don't forget, not only to drain (a large drain plug on the bottom plate is a good idea) but you will need to flush the engine through as well to remove any emulsified oil. 

 

[Martin (Admin)]

Thanks for the Diagram benjaml1.
 Very interesting bevel drive arrangement to the valve gear, were they subject to wear? Is the timing adjustable?

[benjaml1]

Thanks for the Diagram benjaml1.
 Very interesting bevel drive arrangement to the valve gear, were they subject to wear? Is the timing adjustable?

As they are enclosed in the crankcase ( wet sump) they are well lubricated but wear is always possible. The timing is somewhat adjustable by setting the position of the bevels with set screws locking on both the crank & the tower shaft. It is built like a watch, I take my hat off to the machinist who made this, a better man than I even in my prime..  

[benjaml1]

Bit more pipe work, a touch of paint here & there, mount the gearbox, a few more detail fittings  & I have almost completed my steam plant...