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[CJ1]

Now that the Y-boat is finished, it's time to make the transom garage for it.







I'm new to soldering, so those hinges were bit of a struggle. However, they've stayed together long enough to photograph them! The area in the floor is a cutout (currently covered with masking tape inside) for access to the rudders. This will later have a false floor over it with the detailing, and also hidden by the y-boat!
Chris

[CJ1]

Here are the hinges for the transom door, the lower, offset half of which doubles as the top attachment of the trim tab rams with their protective cage.


And here with the operating rams and hinges for the transom door. Everything will be sprayed "chrome" when finished.



Chris

[nhp651]

 nice bit of soldering there chris......is it all soft or silver soldered or a mixture of both.
neil.



http://www.justgiving.com/lochnessscalesail

[CJ1]

Neil,
Thanks.
It's all soft soldered; I've not mastered silver soldering yet. The down side is trying to keep everything in position when you apply the heat for the next part! However I've taken tips from Phil's website, where he uses Aligator clips and metal blocks to keep things in place. So far, it's worked.
Chris

[nhp651]

you've done a masterful job then chris...........holding all those parts in possition must have been a nightmare,
well done to you.
neil.


http://www.justgiving.com/lochnessscalesail

[stoney]

 
 Hello Chris

 Nice neat soldering  I use blu tack to cover and hold in place soldered parts if there is more soldering to be done.

 Paul

[nhp651]

does that work, paul..neat tip if so, cheers.


http://www.justgiving.com/lochnessscalesail

[triumphjon]

as oposed to spraying your parts "chrome " could you not get them nickle chrome plated ?

[CJ1]

That's a good idea, I hadn't thought about that. There are the trim tabs to do as well so it would be a nice batch. It's not something I've done before; presumably it's fairly easy to find someone who does this sort of work? What's the best route, do a Google search for them here in South Devon?
Thanks for the tip!

[stoney]

does that work, paul..neat tip if so, cheers.

It sure does work  

 Paul

[CJ1]

Here's the first of the trim tabs assembled, but not cleaned up yet.

Chris

[CJ1]

...and the Transom exhaust outlets.
You've got to hand it to Adrian at Speedline, when you can finally work out how his parts go together, they are a treat. Though to be fair, he did supply good instructions for this part!




It seems a pity to have to plate or paint the brass work.
Chris

[CJ1]

as oposed to spraying your parts "chrome " could you not get them nickle chrome plated ?

Having now asked lots of electroplaters across the UK, most said that the parts were too small for them, and the best quote I have had so far for the job, of those who could do it, was £150!
Anyone know anything I don't know? That's too high for me and I think I'll go down the spray paint route.
Chris

[CJ1]

Prior to painting the hull, I had a go at marking the waterline last night.
So that I will know where it is through the first coats of primer, I decided to bite the bullet, measure it from above, below and sideways to make sure it was in the right place and then lightly scored it into the glass fibre.
First I marked out on the hull the exact position of the waterline at the bow and the two rear quarters. Then using these, I set the boat up square on it's stand on my flatest worktop so that the three marks were all exactly the same height above the bench. I put masking tape around the hull/stand join to keep the hull in that position. I used an engineer's combination set with a dental probe attached, which sat squarely on the bench and was able to slide around the clean worktop scribing a neat line into the hull.
I then scored a second line above this to mark out the white boot-top stripe between the two. This setup can reach into the area around the hard chines forward, giving the correct width for the boot-top in that undercut.


Chris

[stoney]

 I used a Laser for the waterline very quick and easy 

 Paul

[CJ1]

I used a Laser for the waterline very quick and easy 

Paul,
Good tip.
I tried that first and, as you say, very quick and easy. However I was concerned about having to remark it after each coat of paint. On my full size boat, repainting the antifouling is easy as the waterline is moulded in to the hull, so I thought I would try this more permanent technique.

[CJ1]

And so the painting begins....
I've painted in the white waterline first so that it looks bright white rather than painted over red or blue; I 'm not sure if this is a good idea now. I'm relying on Tamiya masking tape to bail me out later on this one!

The antifouling on the Salcombe lifeboat is red, so it's Halfords red primer straight from the can. It looks a bit orange in the bottom photo, but looks right in the flesh.







Chris

[colin]

I have looked at this site it may be of intrest with rtegard to the plating of small parts videos aare impresive
http://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/index.php

Regards
Colin

[flundle]

The Tamar is looking great and your obviously enjoying it.  I tried to make the exhausts out of stainless but it is so hard a materiel it is not possible to bend the exhaust sides properly.  Shame, it would have looked look great.
Be warned about some chrome paints etc because when the are lacquered they can loose the chrome effect and look just like silver paint. Some chrome acrylics done last very long in the water either.  Bit of a so and so really.

[6705russell]

Blimey Adrian its good to see you are still about, thought you had emigrated after not replying to my dozen or so e-mails????   

Russ

[flundle]

Hi Russ.
Its all been a bit tricky lateley.  As you know, I work full time (or did till last week) for BAe and have spent some time away from home.  I also had another poorly spell  then made redundant so all in all, since November last year things have not been good but, I think were back together again now. 
I start with Rolls-Royce next month and that means I'm home very night so bum back in gear at last. 

I hope to keep in touch a bit through this site too.

[Number 6]

Good to see you back posting on Mayhem Adrian. Hope you're feeling better? I got made redundant last October and have still not found full time work, it's not easy is it. Looking forward to your thoughts and input on the builds and topics on here. I should be starting my 1/12 Severn sometime this year, might need a few bits off you when I finally get started, it'll be Holyheads, 17-41 Christopher Pearce. Cheers, Dave.  

[17-21]

I have looked at this site it may be of intrest with rtegard to the plating of small parts videos aare impresive
http://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/index.php

Regards
Colin
I have done this one myself it works OK on flat brass sheet, but you really have to get it clean first, and then polish it before the chrome will take, I have also tried the professional chrome spray paint, and again works OK on larger areas, but as most of the items are small, you don't get the shine, so just went for a spay in the end.

Phil.

[CJ1]

Hi fellow Speedline Tamar builders!

I am stuck with Adrian's Forward Escape Hatch, part 65.

Can anyone explain how they used the parts supplied to get the finished result, preferably with a photo!

thanks in frustration,
Chris

[CJ1]

In the meantime, the first coats of blue paint go on the hull.

I'm using Halfords rattle cans. Ford Galaxy Blue. Interestingly, the first and third cans gave really nice, smooth even coats. The second, middle can was rubbish! The paint felt thicker than the others and was a really poor spray pattern. So I just used it for build-up coats and rubbed it down well. I got two coats from each can, so here we are 5 coats on.

It's a really nice finish....so do I risk one more coat?.....



Chris