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[red181]

welcome to the huntsman club! Good luck on the build, it would be great to get a load of these boats together! (Martin are you reading??)

just a few points that might help you save time and money, your boats is the same as mine, its a  Veron design, little bit rarer than the Precedent design, and slightly different. Remember that all the plans kicking around where based on ic engines, hence the very different prop angle, you last pic looks good, try and get the shaft as flat to the hull as possible, then the prop is pushing the boat forward, and not upwards!

Regarding the prop size, they are approx £1.50 each, get a couple, or borrow as I did! start small and work up after short runs, testing the temp of the motor, make sure you have a fuse inline to protect the esc, If memory serves me right those supermarine mtroniks where quite expensive, I think they are capable of running twin motors, just a pity the max volts you can use with it is 12volts, that kind of limits you, as the graupner 700's nominal voltage is up to 14, and upping the volts makes a huge difference to performance, those motors love big volts, and that hull thrives on speed, they handle beautifuilly.

I did the same to my side windows and screen and removed them, some early 28's where like that. My first set up was with  a700 bb turbo on direct drive, it gave pleasing performance, its not rocket fast, but very acceptable, try and trade the battery pack for two 6v sticks and wire for 12v, then each stick can sit either side of the motor low in the hull to balance the boat, and if you manage to get a higher volts esc in the future you can just add another 6v stick to go to 18v, and so on

[bat44]

hi Steve no going back now. it would be nice to see a boat meeting with just these boats, or at a major boat show with just fairy boats on the tables. and i bet not one of them will be the same, now that would be a Kodak moment      

[stevesteve]

hi red, Ive seen your build and love your boat.

i will def look into what you said about the power.
my biggest problem right now is that the boat was not finished to the greatest standard and nothing quite matches the other side and bits arent aways straight or even thickness etc, trying to hide all the imperfections is proving very hard if not impossible agghhhh! at least the hull looks straight!
1 thing I'm not doing is a rebuild of the superstructure so I will have to settle for the best i can get it, this means it will never look as good as ones like yours that have been built properly but should look OK and a million times better than it ever did!

[stevesteve]

hi Steve no going back now. it would be nice to see a boat meeting with just these boats, or at a major boat show with just fairy boats on the tables. and i bet not one of them will be the same, now that would be a Kodak moment      

That would be funny.

[Norseman]

no going back now

Hi Lads
I'm enjoying this thread and the issues to be considered raised in all your posts. I think Red181's post isn't about going back but going forward.
The story of his craft (double meaning intended) is one of constant development and improvement. If Steve is a bit restricted cashwise today
then he might not be next month/year (maybe an X'mas present). Red's advising the next step in a possible upgrade (now if that's possible).
I am keen to see how Steve gets on and learn from his build so keep posting please.

Regards Dave

[Norseman]

Kodak moment

Great idea Bat44, 'if you build it they will come' 

Dave

[stevesteve]

I am so sick of filler right now, just when you think you have finished another inspection flags 20 things to fill 

[Norseman]

another inspection flags 20 things

True - like because I am going to plank over the deck of my Spraymaster I get the ruler out - whole deck cockpits arrangement is 5mm out of centre line -beeping wonderful. 
Keep sanding Steve.

Dave

[triumphjon]

im sure we could all turn out at one of next years fairey club rallies ?  ive a few contacts within the club !

[bat44]

that would be a fun thing to do so hurry up steve or you will miss it

[red181]

I'm sure we could all turn out at one of next years fairey club rallies ? I've a few contacts within the club

that would be a laugh!

steve dint get hung up on things matching directly, I cheated like hell, I know all the imperfections and differences, my boat is just a refurb like yours, but I am good at deflecting attention away from the mistakes (there are many!) to some good points,  some very  cheap tricky things you can do, here is a taster

the bouys, are kinder egg shells, painted blue, the netting is a 1980's style punk t-shirt from oxfam, cut up and pulled over the kinder egg container, the "rope" is blue thick laces!. The rivet detail on the rear corners of the transom, plasticard, covered with chrome stickback plastic, and dressmaker pins are the rivets!, its little tricks like that which save the money and give the boat that little extra detail that other dint have, bother...... now every huntsman on mayhem will have kinder egg bouys!!


removed duplicate picture    ken

[stevesteve]

im sure we could all turn out at one of next years fairey club rallies ?  ive a few contacts within the club !

dont tell em lol,  just turn up it would be more of a laugh

[stevesteve]

that would be a laugh!

Steve dint get hung up on things matching directly, I cheated like hell, I know all the imperfections and differences, my boat is just a refurb like yours, but I am good at deflecting attention away from the mistakes (there are many!) to some good points,  some very  cheap tricky things you can do, here is a taster

the bouys, are kinder egg shells, painted blue, the netting is a 1980's style punk t-shirt from oxfam, cut up and pulled over the kinder egg container, the "rope" is blue thick laces!. The rivet detail on the rear corners of the transom, plasticard, covered with chrome stickback plastic, and dressmaker pins are the rivets!, its little tricks like that which save the money and give the boat that little extra detail that other dint have, bother...... now every huntsman on mayhem will have kinder egg bouys!!

How did you make the mugs? barbie toys?
feel a bit better now i have seen some of the imperfections in its body, the photos i have seen make it look so perfect! one of the places Ive been struggling with you have similar faults, the beading at waterline level that runs the length of the hull. Is it excess resin on yours too? another things thats bothering me is trying to hide the nails in some places, if you try to knock them in a touch the wood splits  slightly in the flimsy places. lucky for my there all up top and not structural. I'm really not looking forward to doing the screen, i think I'm going to leave that until last! The chrome on the plasticard and the air vents, its spray paint isnt it? i want to get that finish on the rails at the front after stripping all the household gloss from them thinking i was going to spray paint them white again but love the silver look they now have

[stevesteve]

can anyone advise me on the prop support please. since fitting the new one it has less shaft exposed on the outside of the hull and i have also supported it to a degree with fiberglass but wonder if i should re fit the old prop support, leave it as it is or reinforce it all the way to the bush in the end of the shaft with fiberglass. if i went to then end with the fiberglass and shaped it like i have already it would make it like a fin. would this create better straight line stability? the other benefit i can see from doing that is it would make it more streamlined and the fiberglass would help to reduce turbulence in the water between the tube upper and hull bottom. an actual prop support would be stronger and would offer support on the pulling forces that reverse creates but would add turbulence and drag. what does everyone think? a pic of the support still fitted is on page 1 and here is a pic of the new shaft and the fiberglass support as it stands Ive also put the support in the pic for a better look at it.

[bat44]

Steve i don't think you will need the prop support as you do not have much of the prop shaft on the out side of the hull.but one quick test you can do and that is to run the prop shaft at high speed, and if you get a lot of vibration at the end of the prop shaft then put the support on, if not then don't. you could fiberglass up to end don't think it hurt it would make it look nice 

[stevesteve]

I think it will look better too. I cannot test the shaft for vibration yet as I'm waiting for a new coupling to arrive in the post along with a prop. the tube is 9" long and only 3" is exposed outside and 1 1/2" inside so a great deal of it is supported in the shaft bore in the hull. I'm defiantly leaning towards fiberglassing it to the end of the shaft, if you look at the real boats they have a blade incorporated into the shaft support just before the prop. I'm wondering if this is to suppress the swirling of the water before the prop so that it can cut into "straight" water. If i were to glass to the end of the tube, it would create a similar affect.

heres a pic of what i mean

[red181]

its not resin mate, I would not finish a boat like that! its water bubbles after running!

Handrail at front is stainless rod, rear quarter corners is stickyback plastic over plasticard, vents, see my post in the sales section

The boat is regualrly used, its not a museum piece, so gets knocked about a bit, it will get a make over next year after my other projects are finished.

As for the screen, I made mine 2mm lexan and made it removeable for maintenance and replacement if broken

Prop support is a must, if the boat gets knocked or hits something in the water, no support could damage all the hard work you are doing now, as the prop outershaft could move, damaging the hull.  You could fabricate a wedge, or just modify the existing support, it wont create drag or turbulane with your running setup it wont be going that fast to make a difference, I would modify what you have now rather than a wedge under the tube as it will be more secure, the epoxy or fibreglass could break. In your attached pic of the "real" boat, the props have an external support. If the shaft is vibrating, you need to cure that problem, not mask it over or the bearings will faill. Most vibration issues are misaligned shafts, or bent innner shafts, to test, roll the inner shaft on a piece of glass, if bent, dont use it!

[stevesteve]

RED,

thanks for the advice, i will alter the support to suit the new angle.

lol sorry about the rsin mistake, you can clearly see the bubbles on the back of your boat but its bluured up the side and with you saying that theres all sorts you hide i translated blurr to resin ha ha. i did wonder as i did not see anything like that in your build post.

[stevesteve]

Ok, changed the angle in the support and cut new seats for the support feet to go.
will stick some epoxy between the tube and support when i fix it in place for good so there locked together.

[red181]

shape the legs around the prop tube so the meet under the tube, rather than wide apart

[stevesteve]

shape the legs around the prop tube so the meet under the tube, rather than wide apart

the design of the support would make it very difficult to shape it like that without breaking it, also is it not beneficial to have sideward strength? the other thing is Ive already cut the seats for the support feet in the hull ribs and will have to fill them in again grrr. will it make much difference like it is? I'm guessing more drag as opposed to in line with the shaft that is facing the water flow first and more streamlined if they were  in line with each other

[MikeA]

it should be ok steve as it is.

[stevesteve]

Got a little further, Ive modified the propshaft support, primed it and Ive also primed the hull. now i can see the last of the faults in the hull that need attention. nothing major, just a few tiny gaps between the ribs of the hull and the hull bottom. i don't know the condition of the seal underneath and so don't want water getting under the ribs. the hull needs more primer all over in my opinion then i will move on to the cabin, i reckon i will have gone through 3-4 cans of primer (whole boat) before its ready for top coat!

Ive also got to find some way of heating my garage, i setup a little bay in the conservatory but was not extracting the overspray/fumes fast enough and it stank for hours lol. the problem is its far to cold and damp top be painting in the garage at this time of year and cant really spend money on a heater as i already feel bad about the money Ive spent on paint and drive parts for the boat. I'm seriously thinking of running a pipe from my car heater matrix into my garage and heating it that way! if i turned the air con on whilst it was blowing the hot air it will be supplying dry air also as hot + aircon acts as a dehumidifier! if i do it i will post some pics so you all can have a good laugh!

anyway, heres what Ive done so far.....



same prop support but taken apart, reshaped, cut down and soldered.





my makeshift spray bay in the kids "playroom" lol




support looks a lot better now its primed.




hull in primer.

[MikeA]

that prop bracket is a good tribute to your craftsmanship this project goes to show you dont need a lot of money to build a good model.
wouldnt it be cheaper to buy a small electric heater than have the car running for hours on end burning petrol? and another thing did you swap for that 700 motor?

[stevesteve]

that prop bracket is a good tribute to your craftsmanship this project goes to show you don't need a lot of money to build a good model.
wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a small electric heater than have the car running for hours on end burning petrol? and another thing did you swap for that 700 motor?

thanks man, you like the bracket? i swore and threw things several times before it worked! took me hours to do that silly little bracket and at first i thought i had ruined it and wished i hadn't started.
i reckon that i would have the car running for about half hour per session doing 2 coats per session. my car is very thirsty as its a 2.5 v6 but when its on idle it hardly touches the fuel, i don't think theres going to be much in it between a 2kw electric heater and my car on idle except the heater in my mondy is insanely good and something like 3x more powerfull in both heat and flow for roughly the same cost to run!

I did do that swap, it gets me going and i can look into upgrading at a later date.