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[derekwarner]

Hullo Kim......you could create the text in Microsoft Word with the needed [Euros, pounds sterling, copyright] and fractions then copy & paste back to a page here on MBM

In Word go to HELP & ask for inserting symbols.....you get the following...


Insert a symbol or special character

You can use the Symbol dialog box to insert symbols, such as ¼ and ©, or special characters, such as an em dash (—) or ellipsis (…) that are not on your keyboard, as well as Unicode characters.

The types of symbols and characters that you can insert depend on the font that you choose. For example, some fonts may include fractions (¼), international characters (Ç, ë), and international monetary symbols (£, ¥). The built-in Symbol font includes arrows, bullets, and scientific symbols. You might also have additional symbol fonts, such as Wingdings, that include decorative symbols.

Note: You can increase or decrease the size of the Symbol dialog box. Move the pointer to the lower-right corner of the dialog box until it changes into a double-headed arrow, and then drag to the size that you want.




It's also a good idea for any long posting as nothing more frustrating than typing for 5 minutes here, the go to post & get a page expired error message 

Derek

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Many thanks Derek,
You have given me something to try - I even understood it! Not usual when it comes to some IT. Also, you have answered something that I have thought about and not asked about in your last sentence!! Very many thanks again, most helpful.
My next question would be 'how do I put text alongside my appropriate photos. 'Craggle' told me about the use of DropBucket, but it seemed a little complicated. Any other suggestions?
My regards,
Kim

[derekwarner]

Kim......one simple way of adding meaningful text to an image is just to rename it 

Your image below is titled P1200502..........so in your PC or wherever you store this images.....just rename it 

It could be renamed ...M2 x 6 S/S C/S Head Screws..............then when you post it, the new name appears next to the image

Must also agree that the [www.knupfer.info] group is probably the best stocked source of realistically priced miniature bolts & nuts

Derek

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Hmmm. I can see what you are saying for a very short caption, but I was thinking of what some of the others do when they start with a paragraph and then go into the process and instead of my bullet points and then the photos, have the photo with the text of that bullet point underneath [that is, where it rightly belongs].
Not to worry, will get there somehow, one day - it just looks better, that's all.
Suppose, here in the Northern Hemi-sphere it's time I made my way to bed!! I want to try and get that Shannon wheelhouse base line marked and cut later today - slightly apprehensive.
Thanks for help and comments so far, Derek.
Kim

[derekwarner]

How would this be?........................ Derek

[craggle]

Hi Kim

Build is looking good and you are making far better progress than I am with the Severn. Been so busy recently, working away, finding time to get out on the mountain bike, keeping the Mrs happy at the weekend, etc. means hardly any time has been spent on my boat. I will get back to it once the evenings get shorter again though.
I too like the centre finding ruler, very good and very useful. I will go looking for one of those right now I think.

Keep up the photos and description of what you are building, I may not comment after every post but I certainly do read them and find them interesting. Even though it's a different boat to mine the techniques are very similar and I'm picking up useful hints on the way.
 
Craig.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Cheers Craig,
You're not alone regarding putting model building on 'the back burner' during the Summer Period - each to their own agenda, and ten out of ten regarding 'keeping the Mrs. happy', that's worth 10,000 Brownie points for you [but only takes one silly word or action to lose them!!!]. I know you are watching and busy, so don't expect replies, however I'm glad things have helped [likewise with what you are doing on your Severn!].
For all others reading this, just a quick photo of the area where I suddenly noticed the 'high point' of resin [not the stretcher being oversized] on the underside of the deck. You'll also noticed I took the opportunity to lower the area all across that line. Then I went around the edge of the underside of the deck and the hull's top edge lip - just to make sure all were flat and would marry well with each other.
Kim

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Today [Friday] I set up in the conservatory with my various plans - at 1/12th scale - and the wheelhouse. I really am starting to get excited now, as this is what I like when I get near to starting to make 'the bits' and when the boat has got its main components the way I want them. You will see throughout the photos that I have measured off certain key horizontal and vertical lines, marrying with bow, stern and mid-points, front and back uprights of window frames.
When that was done I then started to measure off some of the 'apertures' on the port and then starboard sides. The outcome:-

• a few of those that have been indicated on the laying up gel-coat part of the process are a little out, compared to the plans I am using. This will be easily corrected soon by masking off the areas, roughing up and applying a thin layer of P38 and then sanding back flat, before re-marking them out the way that I want them, prior to cutting out
• the 'nose' of the wheelhouse might be about 1/8th of an inch too long [against my plans], but this will be easier seen once the deck edge line has been drawn onto the bottom of the wheelhouse edge and then cut to profile, as both the nose and stern upright surfaces are slanting, so the bottom length gets longer, the further down the wheelhouse goes. You will see the height the wheelhouse is 'off the floor' in an early photograph.

The main instruments used here, other than the plans which you might have noticed I have pencilled on my notes or comments as reminders, are a steel rule, pencil, set-square and a radii template for drawing the corners onto the apertures.
Tomorrow [Saturday] I hope to glue some angled aluminium onto the inside wheelhouse walls to keep them straight and rigid, and then scribe the base line [described above] onto the bottom of the wheelhouse and cut to profile. If all goes well I will be a happy Canterbury Coxswain!

[Canterbury Coxswain]

I am a very happy Canterbury Coxswain, so am currently sitting down and watching the Olympics, whilst enjoying a large iced Pepsi Cola!!
Went into outdoor workshop this morning and then continued after lunch. The following was achieved:

• marked a 10mm boundary zone around the entire bottom of the wheelhouse and below the line already drawn and denoting the key points and measurements to obtain a baseline - these were, however, 'drawing by numbers' - hence straight, but gave an idea of what should be where
• then cut off the front nose section to get the wheelhouse to sit roughly where it should be - re-checked measurements!! Found it hard to get my head around the marking of the line using the deck contour, especially as there was a dip at the front window area.
• eventually used a pair of metal [Moore and Wright] dividers to scribe a line around the bottom of the wheelhouse where it needed to be cut and sanded to. I did this only after making sure that the height off the deck at the back was the same at at the nose [12.5mm] - that way anything now drawn between the two would give the required line
• using the trusted Dremel drill and diamond cutting disc used previously, trimmed off the base extra GRP that was not required.
• gave a trial fit, noting immediate areas for removal before using PermaGrit block to keep adjusting any 'high' spots down to the scribbed line.
• stopped when I felt that at the moment I had achieved what I set out to do, before revising any ideas to further strengthen the wheelhouse side walkways.

Tomorrow I will decide whether to start at opening up the window apertures and trial fitting the frames supplied by Models by Design. So far very pleased and impressed - thanks Andy for a wonderful start on this superb new RNLI Shannon Class lifeboat - as I've said before, all this for just £290! Maybe I'll have a go at trimming up the ten 'rubber' fenders and making a dummy fit also tomorrow.
Now looking forward to a Tamarind chicken, mushroom rice, aloo gobi and onion bhaji with a cold Cobra beer tonight - can life get any better??!!

[Canterbury Coxswain]

One bullet point I did leave out was at the point of final cuts and trimming I did make sure that the boat hull and deck were level using large building type spirit levels, then as I cut and trimmed to the scribbed line I used smaller versions to make sure everything remained level, both bow to stern and port to starboard - easily overlooked, ending up with a slightly 'wonky' looking set-up, but not here!
Note the shot showing the way that the wheelhouse nose has shortened [likewise at the stern] after being trimmed as this facing surface is at a slope.
Now off to take some 'happy pills' to keep my back quiet and pain free, but a good days work and worth the effort and discomfort.

[Delboy1958]

Hi Kim
Thats coming along very well,It looks like a very well made set of
mouldings Andy has produced there.
You are making a first class job of putting things together.


Regards


Derek

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Thanks Derek,
Knew you and your good colleague 'the Horsham Hawk' would be watching. Had a good morning with a quick session outside [more of that later], then down to the coast to see our good friend 17-09 [Alan]. Thought I had converted him in the last few months to watch football, tennis, and Tour de France and more recently now the Olympic Games and the Beach Volley Ball!! No such luck, he showed me what he had been up to - Severn Class wheelhouse handrails, tele-comms tower, ladder, back support, foot gratings, and radar screen, the stern air-boxes and the survivors' 'A' frames. All very nice and to a great standard - as one would expect! So no sport, but head down and plenty of time in the workshop. Attached two photos I took, with his permission, to encourage and stimulate the viewers to this thread. I'm looking forward to doing the same in aluminium in a few months time for this Shannon.
Cheers, Kim.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Back to my Shannon. Spent just three quarters of an hour this morning placing three 'spare' window frames in the front of my wheelhouse. These Andy gave me sp that I could play about with the flexibility of the frames [superb - flex without any easy breakage when bending them. All I have done is sand down the backs of them to take off the 'meniscus' caused on the pouring / casting method. My own set I will sand using a wet and dry sheet glued to a flat board, this way there will be flat back, adjusted to fit the actual depth required once the apertures are finished and the inside sanded back to make a realistic thickness to the wheelhouse 'walls'. They will also be finished on the visible surfaces and the window inserts press fitted]. The process seen here was:

• fitted frame to wheelhouse indentation and drew pencil line around the inside edge
• cut four 'parallel' lines with Dremel and diamond disk
• 'chain' drilled the corners
• then used Dremel and a drum sander to finish off the corners
• finally 'fettled' the lines with flat and semi-circular files
• press fitted the frame

Tomorrow I will adjust this aperture and frame and the wheelhouse wall thickness, then sand my own actual frame to the point where I am satisfied that one window is done and complete. Then use the same approach and process to complete the other eight windows. When completed I'll come back with a few shots of the achievement.

[Delboy1958]

Hi Kim
Very nice.
One of the worst jobs doing windows.
Those look great.


I am still at home looking after the new knee.


Regards


Derek

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Derek,
Posting this just for you, as you are at home. Is this the original knee operation or the other one now?
Started the day tidying the front middle window as stated yesterday, then did what 'the Horsham Hawk' does - earnt some 'brownie points' by taking my wife out for a riverside pub lunch, then home and completed the windows on the front and then did the front port one. Got out my Proxxon belt finger sander and my Proxxon Delta sander, alongside the Dremel and the diamond cutting disc and drum sander. Sometimes I'm out there working away with a drill, flat and semi-round file - when in the workshop there are these quicker machines that remove the worst and then finish off with the files and wet and dry.

• Speaking of which, for those following this to help with their own build, I did use some 180 grade and then 400 grade wet and dry [with a few drops of washing up liquid to stop any clogging] to correct the parallel front frame divide between the middle window and the port side window. This was only out by around 1/64th of an inch, but it now looks good.
• At the same time I also sanded back, a little, the gel coat on the three slopping wheelhouse roof sections above these three front windows. These are little things I noticed for very minor corrections to the surface, so did it now. All went well. If you are new to this game, nothing will ever come out of the mould perfect and absolutely crisp, you as the modeller will have to put the finishing touches to the model, ready for priming and painting.

Yes, Derek, Andy has made a good job of the mouldings here and I have today seen some more bits he has just made for this Shannon. More in the next few days.
Hope the knee is better soon. Will you be at Headcorn?
Kim

[Delboy1958]

Hi Kim
This is the right knee from May and its the 3rd time its been replaced in the last 9 years.
Dr's that can't mix glue properly.  .
I will be at Headcorn with Paul but not Lee as he is at a Bus Fest that weekend.
I will also be at St Albans.
Those window frames are very nice.
Are you planning an interior or going for smoked glass .


Regards


Derek

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Derek,
You're right about the glue - give them a 'Master Class'!! Ask them if they have tried that 'Gorilla' one from the States.
Just about to go outside and make some more dust finishing off the two windows on the Port side. Then it's off to have some physio for this trapped nerve - some  times in the distant past it's worked, other times............
Regards the windows, so far all seems to be well, waiting to fit the glazing, but just as a trial fit. Then it will be plan 'B' or 'C' into action. The other matter of tinted windows or a fitted interior - I plan the latter as I have access to the actual boat and there is so much good and different bits and pieces in there that I would like to make and detail myself. That said, let's get the water-jets and electrics in first and on the water!! Don't ask when - gently, gently catchy...........
Well, hope to see you at Headcorn [what is Lee up to!!] and St. Albans and also Broomfield Park?
Cheers,
Kim

[Starspider]

Looking very good Kim 

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Thanks Colin, I'm really enjoying getting outside [where the fine dust does not go all over the indoor workshop] and getting all this provisional work done. It takes time, but needs to be done, just hope it might help or encourage others to have a go. Thanks to those others that have sent PMs and emails, appreciated!
Today not so good, as after the physio yesterday, more pain and the pills have left me very 'whoozy', so never got out to finish off what I achieved yesterday. So that's what I'll do now. I'll cover both the port and starboard sides - although pretty well the same, just so it helps understand the whole picture - this is what a few have encouraged me to do.
A few points to remember:

• I have not glued the frames in, just placed them for a trial fit
• I will see, when I 'trial' fit the glazing in, if any adjustments are required. It might be that the glazing is a firm fit and pushes [expands] the frame into the aperture. If not I will add some very, very thin styrene shims where required - this will not be many or very complicated and I will cover the procedure, such as it is, in the next Post
• I will also be adjusting each individual window frame and glazing to be absolutely flush with the wheelhouse sides. I have no doubt that this will be very minimal - if at all, remember, I am a rivet counter!!
• Having marked up each window aperture and cut out I have then removed another 3mm - see the inside lines drawn on the various close-ups - and then made the final trim to this line. This is so that when the frame is in place you will not be able to see the interior edge of the wheelhouse GRP wall.
• You will also see that I have used my Proxxon Delta sander to both flatten and reduce this wall to a uniform thickness around the window spaces. This is inevitable due to the laying up procedure for the window areas. Again, it is minimal, but I am 'flagging' it up for those that are doing the same build with this model from MbD.
• I have yet to do the final trim on the starboard side
• Where the odd little bit of orange gel coating has 'chipped' off in this process will be filled with P38 easy-sand filler, prior to priming. Some will say 'why bother', it will be hidden by the frame! That's just me - it will look better when on display throughout the build process.

Next I hope to take out a few of the side wall apertures [fuel fillers and breathers + fire hydrant water access + engine room vent] and move on to the wheelhouse nose dimensions / possible modification.

You

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Oops - put two previous photos back in again!
The rest to go with the above notes. The last photo just shows where I am with the frames not in place on the Port side, but the view through the wheelhouse with all window apertures removed.
Kim

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Another good day, both weather and modelling wise.
I got to finish off the starboard side window apertures, then trial fit [push] all the window frames in. they really are a lovely fit. Think I will only have to 'shim' the front-mid frame with an absolute 'smidge'. Remember:

• I have not yet 'flattened back' with wet & dry paper the sides of the wheelhouse - this will give the true depth for the window frames, but depth of paint will have to be allowed for!
• At that point I will be able to flatten the back of the frames so that they sit flush in the apertures, level with the sides.

Andy, at Models by Design, really has come up with a novel idea for the frames and good set of glazing inserts - all in the £290 for what you see here and also the 'rubber' fenders for round the deck sides. I really am satisfied for what is in front of me on this project.
A little quiz for you - I have positioned on the bow fore-deck a capstan I was 'tutored' to make with my late friend Ted Murkin. This was some thirteen years ago and he had made one for himself, which I have now inherited for my Trent Class. The one here goes on my Arun Class. Just what is wrong with it though? Something I shall be rectifying for the one on this Shannon model though!
I've seen some more bits Andy is progressing at the moment - hopefully some photos early next week.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Today spent some time marking up the wheelhouse against my plans and will continue with some small remedial work on the 'nose' on Monday along with 'P38ing' the areas on both sides that will have their apertures cut then cut out. This will be on display at the MBA-Dover 'Kearsney Kapers' Regatta tomorrow Sunday.
I then got on with some maintenance work [new tiller upright in oak] and cleaning, LED lighting wiring reworked and checked on my divers' open boat 'Diving Belle', with its superb Alan Bond [Forge Electronics] sound unit matched to the ESC. All based on another MbD boat, being their 1/12th scale Holton 32 fishing boat, here used as an open boat and at 1/8th scale, with official MOD Royal Navy diver figures. Great fun and entertains the crowds at many a show and club meeting. I have calculated that since I acquired this mode some severn years ago [with its fitted Caldercraft electric motor], from Andy and then refurbished it and turned it into a dive boat it has covered some 500 miles on the water!!
Guess my favourite soft drink!
CC

[derekwarner]

Those scale divers have great detail, however I would be a little concerned if they ate the burnt corn beef sandwich after travelling 500 miles in  the open air.... ......... Derek

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Nice one Derek,
But they are ham and cheese on rye bread - hence the 'dark' crust around the edge!!
Cheers,
Kim

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Well Sunday went very well and a very good Regatta put on by the Committee and members of MBA-Dover. Some 83 boats and 3 hovercraft from host club and four supporting MBCs.
A great amount of interest in my Shannon Class model and photographic display from both public and modellers alike. Especially liked was the quality of the hull build, the window process of frame and glazing, and the superb 'rubber' [soft cast resin] fendering - both pioneered, here, by Andy. One Club who only tend to make one type of boat [tugs] had a number of members commenting, saying they were well tempted as they all only tend to scratch build [I did notice one kit amongst their display!!] and would prefer this as a starter 'for ten' then to scratch build the rest, especially having the actual boat so close to us! I also had the chance to speak to another two MbD 1/12th Shannon owners on their progress, although not here on display.
In last Saturday's post came a small parcel, unexpected, with the attached stern wheelhouse rear door and upper-steering position bulkhead. Andy will now be doing this with each new kit, but if those who already have the model want to contact him he will do one for £8 + p&p. He has also sent me a photograph of a new item for the Shannon - a servo and battery tray, CNC milled in white styrene, being £10 + p&p.
Whilst on the Shannon, there seems to be a rumour doing the rounds that the water-jets are not available for it. Not true, KMB [Kehrer] have plenty of stock - I am told - and no one that has bought one has had problems aquiring them - they arrive in a few days of ordering at Euros 52 each, but don't forget to order the aluminium flange plate at Euros 13,  if you are going to be using a brushless motor to power them. So two Water-jet 28 [short steering nozzle] and flanges for Euros 130.
On Monday I I decided to start the small modification to my wheelhouse nose and will hope to finish this today [Tuesday]. As mentioned before, I have plans from three sources, one has the nose at 150mm [as in the MbD model], another shows 147mm and those that I am using and go with my hull show 145mm. So you can see from the photos I have drawn the lines on, but this then alters the angled profile - when using the 70mm across the extreme front of the nose. So off with it and then replace.
This will mean that the bow survivors' peak cabin hatch will have to be moved back by the same amount of 5mm. More of that later. Not a hard job, but the two folk I spoke to at the weekend said they were not worried or troubled and would leave it alone - over to us rivet counters!!
Lastly, if you think the RNLI crews are brave then go to YouTube and look at the Pilot boat videos of the Interceptor 42 Pilot boats in rough seas out of Cork harbour!! They are built by Safehaven Marine in Ireland and their videos are out of this world!! So if you want something that is both fast and slow, looks special [there are so many different versions that can be made] then go to MbD who do a 1/12th scale full kit of one - all in at £375!! Dave Abbott built a review one a couple of years ago, and did it it go!! With brushless motors - splendid. Must get back to the Olympic athletics and hockey now, but this has kept me awake!! Cheers, C.C.