Topic: Dean's Marine M V Mastie Huskie (Read 10212 times)

Martin (Admin) · « **on:** July 09, 2015, 02:34:18 am »

Dean's Marine M V Mastie M.V. Huskie

Capt Podge · « **Reply #1 on:** July 10, 2015, 12:18:42 am »

That could be a good'un - is this gonna be a build log Martin ?

Regards,

Ray.

carlmt · « **Reply #2 on:** July 13, 2015, 10:12:22 pm »

I bought one of these some 8 years ago. Still in it's box unstarted

. Will get around to building it one day - it doesn't look a difficult kit after all.............

html · « **Reply #3 on:** July 14, 2015, 08:33:40 pm »

Well Mr Mayhem sent me this kit to build and do a build thread on it, I got it last Saturday so this is the beginning of the saga. Martin has shown you what is inside the kit.
I have had a look through the instructions, and you need to read them really carefully to understand what you are supposed to be doing during the build. All the sheets of plastic are marked, and the box of parts have a plan with them so you know what part goes where.
The kit is powered by two small motors, the type found in servos, I am going to fit mini viper esc to control these motors, I do not like the wooden dowel for the mast or for the bollards so these will be made out of brass. I am not sure if I can get the tow hook mounted strongly enough to do some towing but we will see.

Brian

Other colas are available

html · « **Reply #4 on:** July 14, 2015, 08:41:49 pm »

The hull looks really good apart from a small amount of damage at the rear, I will sand the bulwarks down a bit more to get rid of that. The 2mm line you can see is the top of the bulwarks.The hull had a seam along the middle which I have sanded out. the hull is now cleaned and sanded so it does not have a shine or any mould wax on it.
To get rid of the wax I wiped the inside over with Isopropyl Alcohol, and then washed the inside with fairy liquid and rinsed. For the outside I used Jiff cleaner, rinsed and then extra fine wet and dry

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #5 on:** July 14, 2015, 09:14:40 pm »

Quote from: html on July 14, 2015, 08:33:40 pm

Other colas are available

... do they still sell Rola cola?!!!

html · « **Reply #6 on:** July 14, 2015, 09:25:12 pm »

It was re-launched in 2014, look out for it at a store near you

html · « **Reply #7 on:** July 20, 2015, 05:29:03 pm »

So I marked up roughly the outline of all the freeing ports and slotted them. I smoothed out the inside and filled any small dents in. I did have a picture but it is too blurry to see. After the smoothing I then filed out the ports, again not very clear but you get the idea. The small ones at the top were a pain in the, you know where and I actually broke them, repaired an cleaned up

html · « **Reply #8 on:** July 20, 2015, 05:32:38 pm »

Now after that operation the instructions tell you to, take the motor mount and sand it down to fit the hull. But it is not clear how much the sanding has to be. The motor mount is the top part, of this the bottom part is for the batteries

html · « **Reply #9 on:** July 20, 2015, 05:37:59 pm »

The instructions actually tell you how big the slots have to be in the hull, what they do not tell you is the marks on the hull to drill for the tubes are in the wrong position and the slots turn out much bigger than they should be. The slots should be 30mm long by 10mm wide., you start with a 3mm drill and then a 6mm drill and file the rest As you can also see they do not line up with the rudder positions, that is another story

html · « **Reply #10 on:** July 20, 2015, 05:45:38 pm »

I ended up with slots this big, and that is when I found out the port side rudder position is in the wrong place. What the instructions tell you that the outboard end must be 40mm between centres, and that is because where the tubes sit on the motor mount is 40mm between centres. So I found the middle of the hull and marked it up then 20mm either side. Ok what is wrong measure re-measure curse, I need to re-drill the rudder position dam and blast. Although the lines are at the outside of the slots, they are in the correct position in relation to the motor mount. Remember I said the marks on the hull were wrong

html · « **Reply #11 on:** July 20, 2015, 05:48:18 pm »

Slight digression, last year I brought myself a new mouse sander. It has a detailing attachment, when I got it I was not sure I would ever use it. But it is great for sanding the inside edge of the hull

html · « **Reply #12 on:** July 20, 2015, 05:51:15 pm »

Prop tubes and shafts, got the tubes out of the packet both of the had slits in them, more dam and blast have to make new ones. Shafts were fairly bent but they did warn about that, so rolled them on some glass to straighten

html · « **Reply #13 on:** July 31, 2015, 08:08:30 pm »

Slowed a bit at the moment, neighbours tree has fallen on my shed with one of the branches punching though the roof. You can imagine how happy I am with that, it has gone way beyond damm and blast stage.

So fitted the rudder tubes in place, used the good old body filler as adhesive. If you look at the back of the hull you will see the bulwark is a bit wavy. While using my mouse sander on the inside I did not realise it was sanding the top edge. I had to repair that with more body filler, where would we be with out Isopon

html · « **Reply #14 on:** July 31, 2015, 08:16:11 pm »

Time to fit the prop tubes , considering the size of the hole I had to cut in the hull this was going to be fun. Anyway I fitted the motor mount and then set about fitting the tubes. it was quite a pain getting the tubes in right position, but I put the props in the tube and after they looked in the right position I marked the motor end of the tube. When I had both the correct length, I super glued them in their position so they would not flop about while I tried to set them up and fill the hull

html · « **Reply #15 on:** July 31, 2015, 08:21:40 pm »

As you can see from the last picture I stuck the tube in position before finally filling in the holes in the hull. Now I filled the holes in, you can see the rear bulwark is straight now. After much sanding the tube supports are looking good, a couple of points need a bit more filler and sanding then we are there

html · « **Reply #16 on:** July 31, 2015, 08:26:22 pm »

I put the rear deck supports in, as per instructions. One thing to remember is, after cutting the supports out de-burr them otherwise they will not sick to one another. The supports might not look straight but they still have to be sanded down smooth
By the way Martin the wife is after you after I told he it was you that wanted me to use her pegs to hold the deck supports in place

html · « **Reply #17 on:** July 31, 2015, 08:29:13 pm »

I fitted the rudder servo plate in position, it is shown in the plans but they do not say what to use or where to mount the plate, so this is all guess work. Since this picture I have put some body filler along the edges for more support

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #18 on:** July 31, 2015, 09:52:28 pm »

Stavros · « **Reply #19 on:** July 31, 2015, 10:01:57 pm »

Brian I hope you realise that bodyfiller is no good at all for use as a structural holder.....it has not got any strength at all....so in effet your propshaft tubes could vibrate free..you should have either used epoxy or P40 grp filler paste........if either your shatsor rudders fail s a result of using filler then simple sir....glug glug will ensue......your choice

Dave

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #20 on:** July 31, 2015, 10:59:40 pm »

Quote from: html on July 31, 2015, 08:26:22 pm

By the way Martin the wife is after you after I told he it was you that wanted me to use her pegs to hold the deck supports in place

I'll ring ahead a get my safe house ready.

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Author Topic: Dean's Marine M V Mastie Huskie (Read 10212 times)

Stavros