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[DaveM]

I don't suppose it's a big secret that I'm updating the Perkasa kit for SLEC @ 1/40 scale. I've obtained some 2-ball brass stanchions of more-or-less the correct pattern and size but I'm a bit stumped when it comes to the thin bits in between..... Did the real thing have 'solid' handrails between the deck stanchions or were they more of a cable or rope? I'm contemplating using nylon-covered steel fishing trace but it's a minefield out there trying to sort out the right stuff!
The stanchions have 0.8mm dia holes. Can anyone please suggest a definite brand/type/source for trace wire and a reliable way of fixing it at each end?
Dave M

[Taranis]

I am using 1mm and 0.8mm ss piano wire on my Smit Rotterdam, just an idea. 0.6mm also available

[Colin Bishop]

Almost certainly flexible wire going by the photos. Is this stuff any use?

https://www.prime-miniatures.co.uk/content/05mm-stainless-steel-cable-1m

Colin

[RST]

Were they ball stanchions? My memory is straight poles with "hoops" on the inside face. Fairly sure it's tensioned wires.  I personally would use thin brass rod these day rather than wires.  When soldered up its much less prone to damage, don't need to tension and can't really tell the difference when painted.


There used to be a fantastic website on Perkasas, had the precedent build book on it as well. I've not been able to find it for quite a few months now. Not sure if it's still out there or Google is playing tricks.  I've been trying to find it again for ages. Weblink I had has vanished.


A 1:40 scale version would be a good size.  Bit smaller so lively enough with a single 500 or 600 sized brushed motor?


Rich

[RST]

Ps, I couldn't tell you brands for wires. I've used trace wires before but just went to the tackle shop and bought the very light ones. You need the little crimp tubes to go with it. Secure at either end to a small hoop on the deck. The very tiny swivels make convincing turnbuckle tensioners.  Always seems to go slack at some point though.

[DaveM]

Many thanks, chaps.
 
That Perkasa website seems to have gone AWOL, as has the guy who posted as Perkasaman.

The aim isn't to reproduce an exact scale model, Rich, but that could be achieved by anyone who wants to go in that direction. The guns, bridge furniture and flare launchers will be available from Shapeways to anyone who wants the total scale experience - at an appropriate price! For example https://www.shapeways.com/product/4YXDWLEUC/bofor-mkix-for-perkasa-1-40?li=shareProduct
I have these and they are truly awesome pieces of work.
 
Colin's link looks to be a good place for me to start for the 'handrails'

1/40 was the scale chosen for the new kit by the late, great John Rudd, MD of Balsacraft, when he started this re-creation in 1999. I'm working from his original CAD files. It's my size of model boat - easy to operate and fits on the back seat of the car. I wouldn't use a brushed motor these days but a decent 600 would probably suit.

Dave M

[tonyH]

You can use jewellery wire as well. You can get down to about 0.3mm and the 0.8 x 6m is £2.60 on Amazon. Stays straight but will hold a kink. You can crimp a bit of appropriate brass or ali tube onto it and it will stick with superglue with the plastic coating.I think Geoff uses similar on his models (Invincible Too)

[unbuiltnautilus]

Albion Alloys BR2XM 0.5mm Rod and BR3XM 0.8mm Rod. Metre lengths in multipacks. With Albion Alloys being UK based they may even be able to supply the material in more appropriate lengths if you ask nicely

[canabus]

HI Guys

I have the Precedent booklets as PDF which I scan when I got my Perkasa a few years ago.
Ended up with two boats, both with 35mm 1100kv brushless motor on 3S Lipo batteries.
So if you require the booklets, I can send them via We Transfer( free transfer and free to you).

Harry Smith

[DaveM]

HI Guys

I have the Precedent booklets as PDF which I scan when I got my Perkasa a few years ago.
Ended up with two boats, both with 35mm 1100kv brushless motor on 3S Lipo batteries.
So if you require the booklets, I can send them via We Transfer( free transfer and free to you).

Harry Smith

Thanks for the offer, Harry. I have all the old kit documentatation and all that's mentioned is using 'Laystrate'. This is an uncoated stranded wire used for control-line model aircraft. It's a swine to handle and it looks horrible IMHO.
DM

[Perkasaman2]

Hi Dave, Perkasaman here, returned from furlough.  Google "Hooben Perkasa" - images, for a reliable colour scheme.
Regards and good luck with the project. 

[RST]

Theres a .pdf from British power boat association or something or something like that. I've been trying to upload it here but it's too big as an attachment (you probably have it already). It has most of what I've seen before, seems to cut short on the last page though. If it can be uploaded here it might help with future searches.


Might I make an uninitiated suggestion if there's to be a new kit? Can it include the transom shelf and trim tab. So many models I see omit these for some reason but they're kind of iconic to the design. Maybe because, if I recall the shelf had to be carved from block, maybe people couldn't be bothered, would explain some "blocky"  deck structures abaft the helm also.

[Perkasaman2]

hi Dave i am almost sure the rails are tensioned, clamped braided stainless steel wire. I remember seeing a close up photo of the stern of a scrapped German boat probably, Strahl. I have tried to relocate this photo from a collection put on the net by the sale broker without success.


I do hope the new hull has the correct pointy shape bow rather than the wraparound compromise of the original kits. 

[Perkasaman2]

The scrapped Danish HDMS SOHESTON photo shows the corner stanchions with bracing stays. Vosper designed a group of 6 Brave Class derivatives for Denmark.


http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/photo.php?lid=2603520