Topic: Springer Rescue Boat (Read 21947 times)

Arrow5 · « **Reply #25 on:** August 01, 2008, 06:02:52 pm »

That is five UK Pounds, under US$10. Toesup or any of the US expert Springerites will chip in with prices and sources. I think I`d glass the outside too if you have the stuff anyway. Use lightweight cloth (model aircraft wing skinning grade) just for ding-proofing more than strength, if you can add pigment it`ll save some trouble. Resin alone will crack as the wood swells and contracts, needs the glass to stabilize it. I`ll try and find a link to the pontoon "Get-um-backer", anybody ????

toesupwa · « **Reply #26 on:** August 01, 2008, 07:27:40 pm »

Quote from: arrow5 on August 01, 2008, 06:02:52 pm

Toesup or any of the US expert Springerites will chip in with prices and sources.

A 'cheap' 540 would be the Tamiya motor from Tower Hobbies @ $11.99 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPML4&P=7

fuelman8 · « **Reply #27 on:** August 02, 2008, 11:39:09 am »

Thanks for the link Toes.

Is the heat created by the brushed motor going to cause a problem with the receiver or ESC.

Or should I be looking at a brushless motor :-\

toesupwa · « **Reply #28 on:** August 02, 2008, 11:49:17 am »

Quote from: fuelman8 on August 02, 2008, 11:39:09 am

Is the heat created by the brushed motor going to cause a problem with the receiver or ESC.

Nope...

Templeton, Mrs Toes Springer uses one of these (direct drive) and has no heat issues. Just keep the RX away from the motor and ESC in case of any electrical interferance.

djrobbo · « **Reply #29 on:** August 02, 2008, 03:11:28 pm »

Hi dudes !....i do now watercool my springers if i know i'm going to do some heavy duty pushing......I have so far managed to fry two 540 motors :'(

No problems now i've got the wet stuff going round the motor . in fact with the old fashioned water pickup behind the prop, when fubar is pushing hard the water outlet looks more like a fire monitor

regards....bob.

fuelman8 · « **Reply #30 on:** August 02, 2008, 07:55:51 pm »

Thanks Arrow.

Mine is setup like the Big BD but i sure like the looks of the Diversified boat

I guess I could make the same using florist foam.

Is there a thread that I haven't found with the steps to installing the motor, cap and drive for a Springer?

Arrow5 · « **Reply #31 on:** August 02, 2008, 08:18:26 pm »

No, no, no, NOT florist foam. If it is the same as the UK "Oasis" it is made to absorb water ! You want expanded polystyrene foam as used in the construction industry. Comes in light blue or pink. Dow-Corning is one is one manfacturer, absorbs less than 1% due to closed cells,easy cut and sanded with normal tools or can be hot-wire cut. kids swimming pool floats and Boogie-boards are another source of suitable material , nice multi colours to ! The be all and end all source of Springerism is on www.RCGroups.com in the Boats section under Dock Talk, Springer Class. The history, design, how to do it etc etc. But dont be leaving here, we still want to see you here with pictures and progress.

fuelman8 · « **Reply #32 on:** August 03, 2008, 02:17:40 pm »

Thanks again

I don't know what I was thinking

I knew florist foam absorbs water in the back of my wee brain.

The boogie board might be just the thing to cut and shape to fit

I'll check RC Groups right now as I'm already a member.

fuelman8 · « **Reply #33 on:** August 03, 2008, 03:59:45 pm »

Here's the hull with a layer of glass on the inside.

I wouldn't leave here, this is the most friendly RC site i've found

fuelman8 · « **Reply #34 on:** August 24, 2008, 02:27:44 pm »

Here's the hull with a layer of 7 1/2 oz glass on the whole inside and bottom and a layer of 1 1/2 oz on the sides.
I'm going to leave the natural color because of the name of the boat and what it will be used for

Arrow5 · « **Reply #35 on:** August 24, 2008, 02:53:31 pm »

How about an open cockpit, car windscreen, chrome fittings, mahogany planked deck...Riva or Chris Craft.

A millionaire`s Springer !

fuelman8 · « **Reply #36 on:** August 25, 2008, 01:22:24 pm »

Grass deck, lawn chair, beer cooler and outhouse

Arrow5 · « **Reply #37 on:** August 25, 2008, 02:51:24 pm »

Nah ! somebody has done that I think. I thought with all that lovely coloured wood it is just screaming to be a retired tug skipper`s luxury runabout

white Yottie`s hat of course.

fuelman8 · « **Reply #38 on:** August 25, 2008, 04:21:21 pm »

I'll work with that luxury runabout idea

amdaylight · « **Reply #39 on:** August 25, 2008, 05:02:55 pm »

Quote from: fuelman8 on August 25, 2008, 01:22:24 pm

Grass deck, lawn chair, beer cooler and outhouse

A redneck springer

::)

Andre

Arrow5 · « **Reply #40 on:** August 25, 2008, 11:25:14 pm »

Quote from: fuelman8 on August 25, 2008, 04:21:21 pm

I'll work with that luxury runabout idea

Some inspiration. Two views from "FatBeech" in Germany.

fuelman8 · « **Reply #41 on:** August 26, 2008, 10:09:31 am »

Arrow

I've built deep vee racing boats also and my next one is going to be a shovelnose hydro along the same lines. I really like the look of deep natural wood

Andre

That's the idea and i've got the perfect name for it too

Tony

Arrow5 · « **Reply #42 on:** August 26, 2008, 10:19:59 am »

Funny you should say a shovel-nose. When I was building my Sprub I thought if I painted it blue and silver and put an open cokpit instead of a conning tower I`d have a Springer K4 ala Malcolm Campbell 1939 record boat.

fuelman8 · « **Reply #43 on:** September 04, 2008, 05:24:26 pm »

I'm going to mount the motor as horizontal as possible but was wondering is there a good distance up from the bottom or down from the top to have the propshaft at? :-\

Arrow5 · « **Reply #44 on:** September 04, 2008, 07:35:56 pm »

Well you`ll need a block of wood to sit the mount on and allow for a water-cooling coil (recommended even in UK climate). I`ve taken to siliconing the motor mount in a box filled with the stuff and held on position until cured (24 hrs). Generaly keep the motor low down and a straight shaft, with u/joint of course, prop clearance at other end will be a clue. Dont angle it "up" at rear to cure diving, it`ll just cause a roostertail. Diving best cured by rearward ballast to give about three or four degrees bow up when static. Hope this helps, I`ve been known to be wrong before >:(

toesupwa · « **Reply #45 on:** September 04, 2008, 09:22:39 pm »

Quote from: fuelman8 on September 04, 2008, 05:24:26 pm

I'm going to mount the motor as horizontal as possible but was wondering is there a good distance up from the bottom or down from the top to have the propshaft at? :-\

This may help you with your 'line' for the drive / motor...
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=3471.msg36640#msg36640

fuelman8 · « **Reply #46 on:** September 05, 2008, 10:18:23 am »

Thanks Arrow & Toes

Arrow, It's good to know not to have the drive on an upward angle. I was going to use a straight shaft but I'll put in a U joint per your suggestion

Toes, I had the springer plan you sent printed out full size last weekend and have been taking the measurements off it, but it showed the angle of the shaft on a downward angle that is why I asked the question. Good article on the testing. :)

Tony

Arrow5 · « **Reply #47 on:** September 05, 2008, 01:12:09 pm »

A slightly shorter prop-shaft than shown on Toes` plan will bring the motor back to the deepest part of the hull. By the way we demand pictures of your progess

fuelman8 · « **Reply #48 on:** September 05, 2008, 04:15:09 pm »

Will do, as soon as the motor, shaft and prop show up

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #49 on:** September 24, 2008, 06:39:28 pm »

Nice one on YouTube: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=S5jEo8Dwi3M&NR=1

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Author Topic: Springer Rescue Boat (Read 21947 times)

fuelman8

djrobbo

fuelman8

fuelman8

fuelman8

fuelman8

fuelman8

fuelman8

amdaylight

fuelman8

fuelman8

fuelman8

fuelman8