Topic: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa (Read 22555 times)

goBulawayo · « **on:** October 21, 2012, 12:32:38 pm »

Right so my original thread has disappeared so time for a new one

I recently acquired a built but damaged ARk/Hooben Perkasa in 1/32 scale. I have stripped off all the deck fittings and so far have resprayed the deck and put back together a few of the fittings. Nothing has been re-fitted to the hull as yet because the rudders were not working. I have now removed these and whoever built the boat fixed the servo arms onto the rudder post with glue, which ran down into the rudder tube, no wonder they would not work. I have ordered a pair of brass rudders off the web, which I will fit a little further from the transom so that I can get the mechanism to operate two rudders from one servo working.

Came with two 545 or thereabouts motors, both run though there appears to be a slight kink in one of the prop shafts. I will also need to acquire new props sometime as the ones on the boat are plastic, but they may work perfectly well?

I seem to be missing a few bits, one being 3 round covers that fit on the exhaust, I have three but it looks like I need 6 - The etched brass supports for the torpedoes are damaged so not too sure what I will do about these and I think I can rescue 3 out of 4 torpedoes. The railing was etched brass stanchions with string/thread, but these were a bit wobbly and buckled, i think i will leave the railing till I can afford some solid stanchions.

Any guidance regarding rebuilding this will be greatly appreciated - I am planning on getting one of these ESCs
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260689007619?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Not sure what battery as yet, I am told the motors are probably 12v, so I guess I may go for 11v lipo.

As acquired

Deck stripped and resprayed, I know its a bit dark but I am using what I have to save money, I have since sprayed the small bit of deck around the engine cover

Shipmate60 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 21, 2012, 12:37:16 pm »

If I remember correctly mine came with 2 x 550 motors and I fitted fast scale props.
The ESC you are looking at has a high failure rate at well below the quoted current draw.

Bob

goBulawayo · « **Reply #2 on:** October 21, 2012, 12:43:56 pm »

Quote from: shipmate60 on October 21, 2012, 12:37:16 pm

If I remember correctly mine came with 2 x 550 motors and I fitted fast scale props.
The ESC you are looking at has a high failure rate at well below the quoted current draw.
Bob

Thanks Bob, what size props did you fit? I reckon i will have to replace the prop shafts as the plastic props appear to have been glued to the shaft- I hoped to use the tubes already fitted so guess a piece of rod the same length and size of the ones I have will do? I assume the first two numbers of the fast scale code are the prop diameter? ie FS/6015/3/LH/BR is 60mm dia? What does the 3 stand for, shaft dia?

Might you be able to suggest a better, but affordable ESC please?

Thanks

Wayne

Shipmate60 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 21, 2012, 12:49:55 pm »

I used prop shop 35mm did 3 blade props on 4mm shafts.
I used 8.4 volt NiCads (it was a while ago) and she flew.
I used 1 battery pack to 1 ESC to each motor but if using a single ESC I would use at least a 40 amp if using 2 x 550's.

Bob

Shipmate60 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 21, 2012, 12:59:10 pm »

If money is tight there is 1 way to get her up and running cheaply but there will be howls of protest.
To get models fast you need a current hungry motor, this in turn needs a large capacity ESC.
On a fast model most of the control is at full throttle so why do you need such mid range shaft control.
If you go for a mechanical Speed Controller at about £10-00 shye will run fine.
They can be sourced now and again on ebay cheaply.
This will need a servo to operate and a receiver pack.
I have 1 as a trials board for my models and have used for years without problem.
The capacitor can get hot if mid range used, but most fast boats use full throttle which does not use the capacitor so it doesnt get hot.

Bob

goBulawayo · « **Reply #5 on:** October 21, 2012, 01:05:35 pm »

Thanks Bob, would the mechanical speed controller be something like this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KYOSHO-MECHANICAL-SPEED-CONTROLLER-AND-SERVO-/271082731743?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3f1dca38df

Wayne

Shipmate60 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 21, 2012, 01:12:29 pm »

Certainly is.
Bob

DickyD · « **Reply #7 on:** October 21, 2012, 01:56:17 pm »

This Esc will do the two motors and are relatively cheap.

I have several. There is no setting up just plug and go'

JP Marine Brushed Speed Controller 50A With Reverse
Marine Water Proof 50A Brushed Speed Controller with Low Power Reverse
Continuous Current - 50A Forward (20A Reverse)
Maximum Current - 70A Burst
Voltage - 7.2v to 12v (6-10 cells)
BEC - 5v/1A Max
Size - 42 x 47 x 13mm
Weight - 85g with wires
Heat Sink - Yes
Price: £27.49 (Including VAT at 20%)

http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/esc.html

goBulawayo · « **Reply #8 on:** October 21, 2012, 02:05:07 pm »

Thanks DickyD

Looks like I will need to save up a bit. Whilst the mechanical speed controller is quite affordable, it will be nice to have slow speed use esp around our club 'harbour' - so I guess this ESC is the one I will go for.

Wayne

Harquebus · « **Reply #9 on:** October 21, 2012, 02:11:03 pm »

Hi, I think there are only 3 covers for the turbine exhausts (which is what they are). I have the Tamiya 1/72 kit and there are only three. Appears they are stored (when the vessel is in operation) on the ledge/shelf directly abaft the turbine outlets on the transom.

The kit props look fine and hopefully they will propel the boat upon a plane if you can spin them fast enough. Otherwise replace them.

goBulawayo · « **Reply #10 on:** October 21, 2012, 02:16:27 pm »

Thanks Harquebus - Some model pics I found show six covers, but it makes sense that they would be stored on the transom ledge (which I will refit later) whilst the boat is operating. Will wait and see how the kit props perform, I guess the kit makers must have tested them!

Wayne

Shipmate60 · « **Reply #11 on:** October 21, 2012, 05:48:09 pm »

If using that ESC I would ensure that it is fused and realise that astern power and speed is reduced.
I would fuse at 30 amps.
If you are using the supplied motors I would use a smaller prop as they need revs.

Sorry Dicky I am not impressed with the ESC's, had 1 and gave it away.

Bob

DickyD · « **Reply #12 on:** October 21, 2012, 06:02:09 pm »

Quote from: shipmate60 on October 21, 2012, 05:48:09 pm

If using that ESC I would ensure that it is fused and realise that astern power and speed is reduced.
I would fuse at 30 amps.
If you are using the supplied motors I would use a smaller prop as they need revs.

Sorry Dicky I am not impressed with the ESC's, had 1 and gave it away.

Bob

I have four Bob and have had no trouble.

Shipmate60 · « **Reply #13 on:** October 21, 2012, 06:10:26 pm »

I know you have Dicky but none in a heavy consumption motor like a 550. Then of course double it as 2 motors fitted.
Dave ran his in his flower corvette, he disliked his for the astern response so gave his away too.
It is very much horses for courses. I would be very surprised if the ESC can take the described current just on the cable size alone.
12 volts x 50 Amps (continuous) is 600 watts or if you like 10 x 60 watt light bulbs.

Bob

DickyD · « **Reply #14 on:** October 21, 2012, 06:29:13 pm »

John bluebird has one running a hot 550 on 8.4 volts in his Swordsman and thinks its great.

I also have one running two motors in my Scheutze.

goBulawayo · « **Reply #15 on:** October 26, 2012, 07:40:51 pm »

Hi All, I am trying to make the radar on my Perkasa operate, now I want to do this as inexpensively as possible so I took out a mini servo and removed the top cog, I then fitted ali tubing to the remaining cog, this will then fit through the roof and radar support and be connected to the radar panel itself. Anyway when I connected the servo to the Rx, it ran constantly, so I then cut off the servo plug and connected it up to my 6v battery pack, not all it does it briefly rotate on connecting the wires and then stops - Any thoughts as to why it is not operating continuously please. I wanted to try connecting it to a 1.5 battery with its own switch

Thanks

Wayne

Harquebus · « **Reply #16 on:** October 27, 2012, 04:28:02 am »

Found a suitable radar motor on another site and the guy who sourced it provided an operation video. It's about the size of a cigarette butt and is geared, all very nice and compact:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44dQVDOMAWE

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16300

DickyD · « **Reply #17 on:** October 27, 2012, 04:59:50 am »

ACTion does one for £ 7.50

http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/M7G.pdf

goBulawayo · « **Reply #18 on:** October 27, 2012, 07:53:59 am »

Super thanks guys, that slimline one is really nice. I managed to get the servo motor running after I pulled off the electronic board and connect wires straight to the motor. It is a bit fast but until i can spare some cash for the slimline one it will have to do.

Wayne

Harquebus · « **Reply #19 on:** October 28, 2012, 02:28:32 am »

Nah, cheaper is better as servos can be had for $2 (USD) or less.

Have you tried lowering the voltage to slow it down like in the vid?

I keep forgetting to check what ACTion has in stock as they seem to have an electronic gizmo for every need. I had to use a currency converter and found out that $11.95 is cheaper than £ 7.50, minus shipping and handling of course...

Do I win?

goBulawayo · « **Reply #20 on:** October 28, 2012, 10:54:14 am »

Quote from: Harquebus on October 28, 2012, 02:28:32 am

Have you tried lowering the voltage to slow it down like in the vid?

I will try, I used one of those flat batteries for calculators etc and did not realise it's actually 3V - I will put a resistor into the wiring to bring it down. Now to figure out what sort of resistor I need as I know nothing about these things

Wayne

goBulawayo · « **Reply #21 on:** October 31, 2012, 12:20:33 pm »

I found a diode on an old circuit board and it has reduced the rotation a bit, looks better though it could still be slower. Once I have purchased esc and batteries I will look at getting a better motor for the radar. Currently making stanchions from 1.5mm brass tube, drilled for the handrails - Is taking a bit of time to make them but so far managed 7 over two nights, only another 15 to go, then 6 A frame stanchions

Wayne

Harquebus · « **Reply #22 on:** November 08, 2012, 09:44:41 am »

I wish I could help you with the technical side of that issue but I am somewhat of a novice on DIY.

I wonder what the RPM of a typical radar array is? What I am seeing via web search is something along the lines of 24, 36, 48 rpm on the newer stuff (it's automatically variable based on the appropriate pulse length). I think 30 rpm is about right. They don't rotate very fast at all...

Good article on constructing a rotation mechanism for radars: http://www.rktman.com/rlh/tips/building/radar.html

I am enjoying your efforts. I will eventually assemble the Tamiya 1/72 version which is no slouch in the size department. I intend to make the radar rotate as well.

goBulawayo · « **Reply #23 on:** November 12, 2012, 05:42:53 pm »

new couplings arrived today and they make a difference to the solid ones that were on the boat before. Thing is the new coupling is a lot longer and it has pushed the prop back about 3/4" - Will this be a problem? I suppose I could just cut the prop shaft to the right length?

Thanks

Wayne

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #24 on:** November 12, 2012, 08:12:47 pm »

May I suggest adding a washer and a lock nut where the shaft exit's the tube at the coupling end.

You may find an influx of water otherwise.

regards

Ken

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Author Topic: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa (Read 22555 times)