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[Southern Sailor]

Regarding the draw wires, I used a very fine twisted steel wire, probably from the fishing guys.  This is flexible but stiff enough to be pushed down the mast, past the other tubes below. I have taken the mast down through the wheel house into the deck house as the only way I could think of to get the wires there. There is no room in the ceiling of the wheelhouse after the wheelhouse lighting and the two radar motors are in.  Any tips on how to join the electric wires together in the deck house below? A single cable connector just seems a bit clumsy.  Brian
By the way I think a damp sponge may solve my cleaning problem with solder tips. Thanks.
I am using grain of wheat bulbs in the mast lights. I think they will be easier than LEDs where the lights are double. One bulb should do the double as well as the single. B

[T33cno]

MMM use large and small LED's . small for the double all round lights.


This is a helpful guide by Component Shop
http://www.componentshop.co.uk/led-exp/


I'm not bothering with working radar myself

[T33cno]

MMM use large and small LED's . small for the double all round lights.


This is a helpful guide by Component Shop
http://www.componentshop.co.uk/led-exp/


However MMM show connection in parallel not in series as the guide above. They provide a resistor pack and advise 2 LED's in parallel with one resistor for 6 volts OR 3 LED's in parallel with one resistor for 12 volts.
Parallel is the only option for the mast as we are using the brass as a common negative


I'm not bothering with working radar myself

[T33cno]

Further study reveals that even in parallel it is best practice to fit each LED with its own resistor. Failing to do this can result in a cascade of failures if one LED croaked.

[Southern Sailor]

Mmm I may have to re-think. I have designed a system that brings all light leads to a circuit board and, for the LEDs suitable resistor/s on the circuit board.  I am using LEDs in parallel for the deck house lighting.


In the double mast lights, can you get the top LED leads passed the lower LED inside the fitting? They will need to be insulated too.  I am hoping that one gow bulb will shine top and bottom in the double lights.

[Southern Sailor]

I see you are using gasket material for the quarterdeck hatch.  I used silicone sealant.  Place silicone on the deck rim around the hatch support and cover the mating surface on the underside of the hatch itself with Vaseline.  Press the hatch home and leave for 24 hours.  Remove, trim and clean and you have an effective seal. I'm still going to cover the Rx and ESC to prevent water dripping on to them in the case of leaks. Brian

[Stan]

Check out new fishing boat in working vessels. I always fit each LED with a resistor no problem if one goes pop. My last big build has three suspended lights two red one  white all fitted with very small LED and turned on via a action quad switch.Will find some pictures and post on mayhem.




Stan.

[T33cno]

Mmm I may have to re-think. I have designed a system that brings all light leads to a circuit board and, for the LEDs suitable resistor/s on the circuit board.  I am using LEDs in parallel for the deck house lighting.


In the double mast lights, can you get the top LED leads passed the lower LED inside the fitting? They will need to be insulated too.  I am hoping that one gow bulb will shine top and bottom in the double lights.

My double lights only use one LED Brain. As the top and bottom are red lenses they both show the light I believe.


Thanks Stan for that too

[Stan]

HI Guys just a few pictures. Picture One. Resistors fitted under cab floor in new fishing boat these are for the mast lights and deck lights.
Picture Two. Resistors fitted in wheel house roof these are for mast lights, Bulkhead lights and Navi lights on my minesweeper.
Picture Three. Suspended working lights on minesweeper. All L E D in my models are wired in parallel. I may some better pictures just pm me  if you need them

Stan.

 

[Southern Sailor]

Hi Stan. I did respond to your pm. Did you get it?  Brian

[Taranis]

You will get that. Its worse with lead free ,You still get it with lead solder . I find pluming flux very good . When all the job is done wash the job in very hot soapy water and its ready for painting . I too have a available heat iron . I just get lazy and leave 450 even for small jobs


John

Over the months that have passed I have found you're guidance to be a priceless turning point and use flux paste mostly in addition to resin core leaded solder    thank you John.


How is Brian getting on? I wonder

[Southern Sailor]

Wow that woke me up.  Time I get back to Portgarth.  Good day gents. I've been waylaid by a quick build of the aircraft carrier HMS Goliath.  I have some photos of Portgarth electrics which I will post when I get to it today. Thanks for the posts. Brian

[Taranis]

Great stuff    merry Christmas 

[Taranis]

The photos that Brian kindly shared of the wheelhouse interior can be found in this gallery along with photos supplied by member Kevgarth
All most useful/priceless for my own build, I hope they are to you.


https://techno.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-Fm93khS

[Southern Sailor]

I have finished the wheelhouse roof structure and want to fix it to the wheelhouse.  Before I do that the wheelhouse interior details must be finished. The wiring from the roof goes down to the deck house via conduits and once that is done it will be difficult to get the roof off again.  I am busy with the glazing of the windows right now and what a tedious job that is.

I am soon going to start on the stairways up the deck house and between deck levels.  Any tips on how to build these from anyone? Brian

[Taranis]

Great to hear from you    If you want any pictures posting you can email as before Brian.
If I could start over I would use these Caldercraft pictured. The MMM templates are terribly wrong and made to fit their white metal ladders that are too narrow.
These would need joining to achieve enough length

[Southern Sailor]

Thanks Andy.  I love your work.  Your Portgarth looks beautiful. How did you get electrics into the wheelhouse roof?  I have radar drive motors and lights there.  Brian

[Taranis]

I have no lights Brian. I decided against it in the end
Thank you


EDIT
However when I was intending to! the wires would have been run up the side of the floor to ceiling shelving that has boxed in section against it

[Southern Sailor]

Good idea Andy.  I have two vertical conduits on each side wall and its going to be a tight squeeze to get the cables through. A box would have made it easier. 

[Taranis]

That box section is as per the internal pictures you gave me

[Southern Sailor]

Dash it.  I missed that one! . The shelves too.  Oh well I'm not brave enough to put the shelves and box in at this stage. Should have chatted to you earlier! 


I am going to add some of the detail behind the RIB that I have seen in your photos. I see that you took the rear wall of the deck house down to the lower deck.  I pondered over this but decided against it. Will post some photos later.


How do you get your colour boundaries so neat? I don't get crisp lines which you will see in the photos.


Brian

[Taranis]

I just use masking tape and plenty of paint. After tape removal there is enough paint thickness to lightly sand off any bleed before a finish of satin lacquer. My rear wall and indeed the whole base of the deckhouse has plenty of lacquer to stop it soaking up any water

[Southern Sailor]

The wheel house so far

[Southern Sailor]

Wheel house ceiling

[Southern Sailor]

Wheel house roof so far