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[Steven.T]

Yeah mine are a bit big then, they look about 6mm sq. when measured with a tape measure!

[Circlip]

Certainly made a difference to one Crash Tender on here a couple of years ago. Addition allowed it to plane and stopped it digging in on corners. On photo five, the bottom outer edge of the rail looks to be radiused, it should have a sharp corner. Idea is to stop suction effect from water and if you look at the wake in photo one in reply #4, the water is stuck to the side at the rear about an inch up.
 
  Regards  Ian

[Steven.T]

I might just take a couple of mill of each face. To be honest I'm also thinking about taking them off and doing them again as both sides aren't the same, I.E. they both curve off at different places if that makes sense?

[pompebled]

they both curve off at different places if that makes sense?

No, not really.

And, though the original has the sprayrail curve up quite a lot, on the model you can get away with less curve (as the water isn't scaled down).

On your model the sprayrails run all the way to the transom, does the original have that too?
This should not be necessary, as long as the edges between bottom and sides are sharp, not rounded.
Check this out.

Ian has a valid point in the shape of the sprayrails; rounded edges allow the water to creep around them, as his observation of the picture in question proves.
The resulting drag is substantial and will affect the running attitude, speed and runtime.

Regards, Jan.

[Circlip]

Sorry to disagree Jan but the rails should go all the way back to the transom. Even with a sharp edge between the bottom skin and the side skin, without the step, there's still a chance of water creep. At slow speed it's going to happen anyway but as speed increases, more deflection occurs.
 
  Regards  Ian.
 
  And yes, all the Aerokits designs had the rails going back to the transom.

[Steven.T]

So does the lack of the straight edge at the back mean the water flows into the wake immediately?


I've taken some photos to explain what I mean by they both aren't equal. One side seems to dip below the waterline steeper and sooner than the other side.



















Looking at the above photo, if you take note on one side of where the white waterline stripe ends, and compare it to the other, theres quite a difference!

I'm not sure if they are right, looking at the photos of the real ones here they look different to me
http://www.asrmcs-club.com/boatswebsite/gallery/93ff/


Cheers,
Steven

[pompebled]

Hi Steven,

The original seems to be more triangular in shape and less pronounced, it looks much better.

@Ian: I stand corrected.

Regards, Jan.

[Circlip]

"Theoretically" the inside bottom edge of the stringer should be on the corner of the junction between the side and bottom skins so it forms a ledge and is in effect an extension to the bottom skin.
 
  Might have been thinking front to back Jan? Front third doesn't do much when the hull is on the plane but looks odd if it isn't there?
 
   Regards   Ian.

[Steven.T]

"Theoretically" the inside bottom edge of the stringer should be on the corner of the junction between the side and bottom skins so it forms a ledge and is in effect an extension to the bottom skin.
 

You've lost me there Ian I'm afraid 

[Circlip]

Been trying to find a picky on John "Bluebirds" masterclass of the Whale back but some of the photos are missing. Could be my server but they are probably at end of page one.
 
  http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,9758.0.html
 
 
    Regards  Ian.

[John W E]

Hi try the RTTL build
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,20758.50.html


 


aye
john

[georgo]

  [qlooks very nice..
uote author=Steven.T link=topic=45640.msg461842#msg461842 date=1386520127]
Hi Guys,
Bought this of ebay the other week, thought I'd put some pictures on.
I believe it's an Aerokits model, single prop with a Johnson 600 motor powering it. Currently has a 6v Sealed Lead Acid battery although I'm looking to change this, going to try it on 7.2v then maybe 12v depending on performance. On 6v it went a decent pace, but just not quite enough 
[size=78%]It currently is on 27mhz but I intend to buy another reciever for my Planet T5 and make it 2.4ghz.The speed controller is a M'troniks marine 15.[/size]



































The mast at the back won't be staying, I intend on removing it and making a new one for the front as per the prototype.
I think I'm going to try and get hold of some decent looking monitors to go on it, theres only one fitted at the moment. And I don't think the little boat and crane will be staying, although I intend on making new cabin tops for the monitors, so I can have both if I wish!
Not too sure about the planked deck, as nice as it looks, I just don't know if it looks right, same goes for the spray rail.
The search light on the front looks like a Robbe one, it works, but isn't wired up, so I intend to do that aswell!
And need to source some decals for it, just to finish it off!


Any more ideas for improvements?
Cheers,
Steven

[pompebled]

looks very nice..

Hi Geordo,

If you only wanted to say you like the boat, as stated above, would you mind editing your post by removing the quoute of the entire opening post?
Things like this rather mess up this tidy thread...
Thanks.

Regards, Jan.

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

I agree.

Geordo.  When you insert a QUOTE to your mail. could you scroll a few lines below the   /quote  sign.

This will start your letter after a clear gap in the print.

Hope this helps

ken

[Steven.T]

Is a moderator not able to edit the post just to make life easier? I know it means a Mod has to do something but still 

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

I have been doing so ............................................... but it got a bit much.



ken

[red181]

Hi Steven,

these hulls don't handle very well at speed, even though they go on the plane quite easily, they are rather shallow in the water, and quite narrow. Looking at your pics, the rails are very big, however are in the correct place. without them, it will struggle to go on the plane, and in turns will roll quite severely, resulting in a common problem with these boats that the nose almost submarines, the rudder adding to the problem as it acts like a brake, making the rear rise and the front dip (I speak with experience here!).

It looks like the original builder suffered these problems, as the unpainted rails have probably been added later (otherwise they would have been painted?) Personally(but depending on how accurate you want the boat to be) I would reduce the size of the rails, but be warned, the particular odd shape of the hull makes it a difficult and fiddly job to refit new rails. Perhaps just sand those down a bit, or leave alone!. Make sure you keep the profile square, if rounded they don't work aswell. Whilst this is the bigger brother, the principles are the same, there might be some useful info in my recent build. Any questions, please ask!

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,39278.0.html

Paul

[red181]

take a look

[Martin (Admin)]

Wow, never seen these photos before and I thought I had them all!

[red181]

I have secrets!!!

[Steven.T]

Well, this boat has been in the dry dock for a while now. I bought a fittings kit from Mod Slip (which are quite heavy!) so decided I should really make a start on making the boat mine, so to speak. I intend on making it appear more like the real thing. I started by taking the varnish right off the deck and smoothing down, ready for the grey paint.
Whilst I was there, I decided to rub down the hull and re-spray that. However... Whilst rubbing the hull down, I noticed something which, well, doesn't fill me with confidence...


Basically, the join between the two panels on one side of the hull aout 1/4 of the way back from the bow, has split, and theres quite a large gap. Now, I had noticed there was water getting inside the hull, but I put this down to water coming over the back of the boat. Obviously, that isn't the case. So I'm quite glad I did decide to rub the paintwork down, rather than find out after I had finished it! I decided to keep taking layer upon layer of paint off, got past a lot of filler! Although you can't see it in this photo, the crack actually runs most the way across the photo, you can see it clearer just near the first knot in the wood:







I was going to use some evostick nail and seal on this, but that allows a flexible joint. I suspect it needs to be a solid join, so I think I'll fill it with epoxy to get rid of the gap, then smooth it out with filler.


Also, there is a lot of damage to the bow, underneath the water line. I suspect this is where at my local lake, the boat hits the edge (the edge is about level with the water). I will probably use filler here and I'm considering a thin strip of metal over the top to take the damage in future, rather than the wood itself!





That's all for now, more when I get back into the garage!
If anyone has any ideas of a better way to solve the above problems, please shout up, I'd rather think about it now than after I have done it! 


Cheers,
Steven

[pompebled]

Hi Steven,

Here's where a layer of epoxy and glasscloth is always better than just paint.
On my MAS (and other wooden hulls) the outside is covered with a layer of glasscloth and epoxy and the inside is covered with epoxy resin.
This way there's no chance of water getting to the wood, causung the wood to swell up and crack at the seams.

If you want to do this on your boat, you need to sand dow to the bare wood, to get the best result.

If you don't fancy that, just glass and epoxy over the leaky seam is an option, but I would treat the whole seam all around the boat, sanding down to the bare wood.

Regards, Jan.

[Steven.T]

Hi Jan, The epoxy and glass cloth seems like a sound idea. I've been thinking about it, and I've decided that I may aswell take all the paint off the hull. At least I can ease my mind that if there is any further problems, I can address them now rather than after I've finished all the work...
Think I'll have to go and buy some nitromors for this!
Cheers,
Steven

[red181]

don't use nitromors, trust me on this one, fairy power spray, I jest you not, its superb, and wont have all the after effects of nitrmors, the paint will easily scrape off.

With regards to glassing the hull, get light cloth from deluxe materials, and don't use thick heavy stuff from halfrauds, its way too much like hard work.
Get it back to wood. Don't forget, if you want authentic finish on the deck, its a none slip finish, so you don't need a perfect finish on the decks, just the hull sides. Also, stand it on its nose, and pour some resin in, this will fill any holes ( masking tape on outside to stop it just trickling out).

Pull those spray rails off first, you need new ones, they need to be square profile, over time, and many paint jobs, they get rounded, and the early versions where not big enough. This hull does not have the best handling characteristics and has a tendency to roll, new spray rails will cure this. I have seen so many of these boats finished, only to be cobbled up as they handle poor at speed. Have a look at my build, there is a lot of glassing info there, and info about the spray rails. Its the 4 footer, but the concept is the same whichever size it is,, I have both sizes! Any questions, just ask,

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,39278.0.html

Paul

[Steven.T]

Cheers Paul, I'll give the power spray a try    If I can get mine looking half as good as yours does I'll be happy!


As for the glass cloth and epoxy, was this the stuff, the aeropoxy (BD1), and which Cloth did you use? There seems to be a variety of sizes and weights but I'm not sure which is most suitable:
http://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/pages/building.htm
(About 3/4 down the page)


Cheers,
Steven