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[ballastanksian]

She's coming on a treat Cap'n! I think the strips do make the bridge, lovely.

[Hande]

Hello Captain!


What is your take on the motors for your Neddie?
Or more accurately:
What do you think about my plan:
- 12V
- 540
- 6:1 gearbox

Component shop gives these figures:  2633 r/min, 2,85A, 21,2W

Alternative: 545-12 advertised by Electronize


I'm not planning to participate in towing competitions (like there were any in Finland...)


You may know if the amps are stall current amps (I'm guessing not)..?


I was thinking of going brushless, but I cannot find local peer support for that. So even if it is becoming old-fashioned, I think brush is good!



Hande

[Hande]

Oh... and as it is pertinent to the choice of motor:


The Neddie has Kort nozzles.
The full-size Smit Nederland and her sister vessels have controllable pitch 4-blade propellers. NOT fixed pitch Kort propellers.
So, there's a choice to be made.


After measuring the nozzles, I concluded the propellers should be 54mm in dia.


What kind of propellers are you planning to use?


(celebrate with me  - my 100th post  )

[Capt Podge]

As far as covering up sins is concerned - have you tried - and you possibly have.  A product called perfect plastic putty by Deluxe - this has covered many of my 'sins' when I am working with Plasticard.
john

I have seen that stuff but never tried it - one for the future methinks.
I've used a similar trick to B.Y. but just take a sliver of scrap plastic, place it in the gap, then give it a good brushfull of Plasweld and literally melt the scrap into the gap.
If its a tiny gap then I just use a file to create some plastic dust over the area and blend in with the Plasweld.

Regards,

Ray.

[Capt Podge]

Hello Captain!


What is your take on the motors for your Neddie?

Hande

Hi Hande.
I'm just using 2 x 540 motors with direct drive - my model won't be used for towing competitions (maybe just a barge or two) so there's no real need for anything more powerful.

What kind of propellers are you planning to use?


(celebrate with me  - my 100th post 

I'm just using the props that came with the original kit.

...and congratulations on reaching the 100 postings milestone.

Regards,

Ray.

[Capt Podge]

She's coming on a treat Cap'n! I think the strips do make the bridge, lovely.

Thank you Ian.
The wheelhouse contains 134 individual parts (each window having 4 strips), and the doors and internals have yet to be added.

Regards,

Ray.

[oldiron]

Hello Captain!


What is your take on the motors for your Neddie?
Or more accurately:
What do you think about my plan:
- 12V
- 540
- 6:1 gearbox

Component shop gives these figures:  2633 r/min, 2,85A, 21,2W

Alternative: 545-12 advertised by Electronize


I'm not planning to participate in towing competitions (like there were any in Finland...)


You may know if the amps are stall current amps (I'm guessing not)..?


I was thinking of going brushless, but I cannot find local peer support for that. So even if it is becoming old-fashioned, I think brush is good!



Hande

Hande

 I used direct drive 540 motors on my Neddy with no troubles. Like the Capt, I'm not using mine for towing competitions, but she still hauls very well. I don't see you need to go to the aggrevation of gearboxes, nor the cost of brushless. However, and Action 94 controller is great.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,10387.0.html

Keep up the good work Capt.

John

[Capt Podge]

Keep up the good work Capt.

John

Thank you John.

I continue to admire your Neddy build, referring to it often, just hope my end result does justice to the model.

Regards,

Ray.

[Hande]

Hande

 I used direct drive 540 motors on my Neddy with no troubles. Like the Capt, I'm not using mine for towing competitions, but she still hauls very well. I don't see you need to go to the aggrevation of gearboxes, nor the cost of brushless. However, and Action 94 controller is great.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,10387.0.html


John

Thank you, Oldiron, John, for your views! I feel honoured 
I have studied your build already and read it back and forth. When I landed this particular kit, I didn't know, how popular it is. Of course, there is good reason, as we know. The good fortune for me is that several people have been kind enough to share their experience and I have found help in so many ways. My build: bit.ly/Neddie_of_Hande

[Capt Podge]

So, the new wheelhouse floor was made. This was then welded to the main superstructure - the wheelhouse will remain free standing until window glass goes in, nearer the completion date.
Also welded a rim around the on/off switch box lid, just makes it that little bit more secure.

Next job was the new wheelhouse roof - took 3 attempts to get that bit right - the roof was welded in place and finished off with the 3 sided kickplates.
The front window wiper covers were then fashioned out of evergreen plastic strip and attached.

There was also a little platform, for the winch operators pedestal control panel, to be made. Once this was completed, a hole was drilled and a pin made to fit.
The platform was then welded in place.

Here's a few photos...

[Capt Podge]

Well, that's as far as I can go until the painting gets underway.

In the meantime, there are the old stanchions and handrails to be assessed - these all need stripping down to see what can be salvaged.

Just look at the state they are in...

Regards,

Ray.

[Captain fizz]

Yep, they are a mess Ray. Looks like a bunch of stock fence after the stampede!
The build is looking cracking though.


Simon

[Capt Podge]

Yep, they are a mess Ray. Looks like a bunch of stock fence after the stampede!
The build is looking cracking though.


Simon

 

...Thanks Simon, I needed something to cheer me this morning.

Regards,

Ray.

[radiojoe]

Cracking wheelhouse Ray, like you I'm waiting to get some painting done. 

ho and did you roundup all the cattle 

[Capt Podge]

ho and did you roundup all the cattle 

No - they have mooooo-ved on.

The weather has improved Joe but I'm having to give the Allotment garden priority

Hope to at least get the 1st Primer coat on the boat this weekend.

Regards,

Ray.

[Capt Podge]

While waiting for weather, I carried out further checks on the running gear and wasn't happy with the rudder operations.

Tried a number of options and finally settled for the servo close to the tillers, with 2 operating rods. Now works a lot better, so the new servo mounting has been epoxied in place. (It's actually located in the void in the keel)

The weather forecast indicated reasonable weather for today so the hull was rubbed down and keyed with 180 grit wet 'n dry, used dry.
Outer & inner bulwarks and the main deck were then done with 400 grit - didn't want to damage the plywood.
Finally, for this phase, the lower superstructure and wheelhouse were also given a rub down with the 400 grit.

Then, the whole lot were given a wash down and dried off, followed by Panel Wipe and Tack Wipe.
Also took the opportunity to fix the nav lamp boxes and liferaft brackets in place.

The 1st coat of primer was applied this afternoon....

here's a few photo's..........

(forgot to photograph my new rudder servo set up - I'll do that when this paint has had time to dry off completely)

Regards,

Ray.

[Stavros]

Er hope you didn't literally wash down the hull with Water as primer is porus that's why I say rub down dry......all you really need to do in this case was to remover the dust with a dry rag.....then simply wash down with Panel wipe tack rag and wey hey paint on


Dave

[sharkbite0]

looking good ray but as stavros says primer is porous.
i made that mistake with my coble and it is amazing just how much moisture the primer holds.
after i did the wet rubdown dried the hull i tack clothed the hull then  i hit it with its top colour and it had more fish eyes in it so there was no other option but to start over.
regards
Mick
 

[Capt Podge]

Er hope you didn't literally wash down the hull with Water as primer is porus that's why I say rub down dry......all you really need to do in this case was to remover the dust with a dry rag.....then simply wash down with Panel wipe tack rag and wey hey paint on


Dave

Thanks for the info Dave - the wash down was done last night because the forecast was good for today. I knew I wouldn't have much time so I did the Panel wipe / tack rag just prior to applying the primer.
I'm definitely following your advise on this preparation lark.

Sorry to confuse, it's just the way I worded it earlier.

Regards,

Ray.

[Capt Podge]

looking good ray but as stavros says primer is porous.

regards
Mick
 

Cheers Mick, no water applied since Primer went on. (My previous wording at fault)

Regards,

Ray.

[sharkbite0]

no problem ray  but she is looking great keep up the cracking work and up dates as and when mate 
regards
Mick

[Captain fizz]

Looking good Ray.
What primer did you use and how was it applied?


Simon.

[Capt Podge]

Looking good Ray.
What primer did you use and how was it applied?


Simon.

Thanks Simon - it's just Halfords spray, standard grey primer (rattle cans).

I'll see how it goes but reckon on giving it three coats before the top colours.

Regards,

Ray.

[Stavros]

PHEW thank goodness for that well done Ray keep up the good work looking rather good


Dave

[Hande]

i made that mistake with my coble and it is amazing just how much moisture the primer holds.
after i did the wet rubdown dried the hull i tack clothed the hull then  i hit it with its top colour and it had more fish eyes in it so there was no other option but to start over.
regards
Mick

I'm coming behind Capt Podge.
I want to understand the mistake that I am to avoid, Mick. Or Stavros.
If you dried the hull, why was there a problem of the fish eyes?


I was planning to use a plastic primer on the ABS hull. Then regular car primer, sand and prime as many times it takes to get a smooth surface. Then top colours and lacquer.


Where is the danger?


Appreciate answers that a newbie like me can understand