Topic: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug (Read 190670 times)

Hande · « **Reply #250 on:** July 12, 2017, 07:02:57 pm »

I finally got the fender-tyres

And take note: they are made of rubber - you know, the stuff that TYRES are made of !!!

This is the fantastic secret:

Scalextric electric track cars have almost optimal tyre size. And did I mention it - they are made of real rubber.
The only imperfection is that the tyres are low profile for track race cars.

Solution: cut a slice off and you've got scale truck tyres. Couldn't be perfect..er.

Cutting rubber from pieces this small is tricky, but the imperfections make them look ever so real.

The good fortune in this story: My hobby shop keeper had bought the inventory of some importer of this stuff, including a bag full of spare tyres. I have kept asking for fender tyres for a tug boat, but it was last Monday that a bell rang in his head and he produced his special bag of spare Scalextric tyres for me

Capt Podge · « **Reply #251 on:** July 12, 2017, 09:37:56 pm »

Hi Hande - glad to see you are still going on with the model - so, you have not "tyred" of it but, "tread" carefully...

Will the fender tyres be hung on ropes or chain ? - if you go with chain, make a hole in the centre of the tread and use a small split-pin to secure the chain to the inside of the tyre - hope this makes sense.

Regards,

Ray.

Brian60 · « **Reply #252 on:** July 13, 2017, 08:36:33 am »

Its always worth looking in the tat shops ie £ stores, for cheap kids car toys. The cars can be disposed of but the tyres are great!

These particular ones are plastic but the size is what I was after, just 8mm in diameter from Matchbox size cars. 12 cars cost me 4€ so around £3.50. The metal bodies I melted down into a lump that I can recast later for various fittings

ballastanksian · « **Reply #253 on:** July 13, 2017, 10:05:36 pm »

Under or over bending things can work but obviously not in every occasion. I make wire rings and laminated styrene rings slightly undersize so that when I let the material go it springs to nearer its true size saving lots of faffage, but if the material won't take it, then its best to avoid.

Hande · « **Reply #254 on:** July 14, 2017, 06:05:50 pm »

Quote from: Capt Podge on July 12, 2017, 09:37:56 pm

Hi Hande - glad to see you are still going on with the model - so, you have not "tyred" of it but, "tread" carefully...

Will the fender tyres be hung on ropes or chain ? - if you go with chain, make a hole in the centre of the tread and use a small split-pin to secure the chain to the inside of the tyre - hope this makes sense.

Regards,

Ray.

After some pondering, I finally got the play with words

enjoyed it, Ray!
There is no sign of tire in my work with the build. I just don't have the time... Retirement (retyrement

) is approaching, fortunately. on the other hand, I really can use the life support provided by my work assignment. So, meanwhile, I tread slowly.

These tyres are thick and heavy with rubber. The thickness is almost the same as the hight of the profile. So I thought I'd make a hole and stick the rope into the rubber with a shot of super glue.

But now that you mentioned chain... It would look so nice with chains! I wonder if they can be found in 1/33 scale. That's pretty thin. The anchor chain is too thick for sure.

Did I miss a special reason to "tread carefully", Ray?

Hande

Hande · « **Reply #255 on:** July 14, 2017, 06:13:09 pm »

Quote from: ballastanksian on July 13, 2017, 10:05:36 pm

Under or over bending things can work but obviously not in every occasion. I make wire rings and laminated styrene rings slightly undersize so that when I let the material go it springs to nearer its true size saving lots of faffage, but if the material won't take it, then its best to avoid.

Thanks for your view, ballastanksian! Stay tuned for some pics later on - over bending may be the least of my problems. I am planning to relax the bending the way Ray suggested. But for a strange reason, the bottom edge of the bow bulwark seems to be curly - or wavy, rather - leaving an opening between the bulwark and the deck surface in places... May need a ton of putty once I have the bulwarks on

Hande · « **Reply #256 on:** July 14, 2017, 06:17:22 pm »

Quote from: Brian60 on July 13, 2017, 08:36:33 am

Its always worth looking in the tat shops ie £ stores, for cheap kids car toys. The cars can be disposed of but the tyres are great!

Yes, I know - I have been looking for toy cars. The ones I have found in flea markets, have had price tags of tens of euros! Apparently some collector's items... So, little luck until now.

Capt Podge · « **Reply #257 on:** July 14, 2017, 09:38:10 pm »

Quote from: Hande on July 14, 2017, 06:05:50 pm

But now that you mentioned chain... It would look so nice with chains! I wonder if they can be found in 1/33 scale. That's pretty thin. The anchor chain is too thick for sure.

Did I miss a special reason to "tread carefully", Ray?
Hande

First of all the chains - this idea came to me after I had completed the Smit Nederland (notice that my tyre fenders are just slung up on "ropes") - maybe I'll opt for chains on her next maintenance programme.

Keep a look-out for costume jewellery - you might get a necklace or bangle with the right dimension of links for your tyre chains.

reason to tread carefully - Nah! - just a play on words my friend.

Regards,

Ray.

Hande · « **Reply #258 on:** July 19, 2017, 09:56:34 am »

Quote from: Hande on July 12, 2017, 07:02:57 pm

Solution: cut a slice off and you've got scale truck tyres. Couldn't be perfect..er.
Cutting rubber from pieces this small is tricky, but the imperfections make them look ever so real.

This is how I did the cutting. Asked her-inside to take a picture of the action

Now that all 16 are done - may be you have suggestions for a better technique?
After about 10 tyres, I realised it's worthwhile to spit on the rubber for lubrication. Without, the blade just didn't run smoothly into the rubber. Even with this kind of lubrication it wasn't all smooth, but better anyway.

Hande · « **Reply #259 on:** July 19, 2017, 10:00:19 am »

My little bulwark support support

#35 port-side done!

ballastanksian · « **Reply #260 on:** July 19, 2017, 10:41:02 pm »

That's an elegant idea

Hande · « **Reply #261 on:** July 26, 2017, 09:05:07 pm »

eazy does it

In the picture, the bulwark knees seem to be all messed up. But they really are straight against their respective position on the deck.
I worry that they might be leaning forward in some cases - we shall see soon enough...

Hande · « **Reply #262 on:** August 06, 2017, 08:51:53 am »

Between given bulwark knees, extra supports have to be fitted for increased strength for the installation of the bulwark.
Now, have to carve paint for good glue joint.
I made a little improvised tool to carve 2mm.
Works fine along grain. But some of the bulwark knees are laser-cut across grain. Carving across grain results in a miniature potatoe field 2 mm wide

I will use a glue with good filling properties and hope it will do the trick.
This pic is on the good case of carving along grain.

Hande · « **Reply #263 on:** August 06, 2017, 08:55:55 am »

These are the fellows that go between the specific slots between bulwark support knees.
Pre-painted yellow on the inside.

Hande · « **Reply #264 on:** August 06, 2017, 08:57:16 am »

Stern-side coming along...

Brian60 · « **Reply #265 on:** August 06, 2017, 09:01:32 am »

Good work done here. I'm pinching the idea of the craft blades! I have 4 knives in use from sharp to almost ride bare arsed to London on it type blades, as they get blunt they move down the queue until no longer useful, thats because I can't readily get craft blades here. Those snap off ones can be bought in the diy shops, so I'll give them a go in my handles!

Hande · « **Reply #266 on:** August 06, 2017, 09:09:45 am »

I am on the receiving side all the time with you hobbyist-fellows!
Couldn't be happier about succeeding to offer a hint - for once!

(CA seems to hold well between my blade pieces)

Hande · « **Reply #267 on:** August 24, 2017, 08:58:45 am »

I am thrilled.
My first UK model boat show.
I can't believe I'm really going to Haydock Park Model boat convention!

I'm going to the Beatlesweek festival at the same time.

Anyone else?

ballastanksian · « **Reply #268 on:** August 24, 2017, 08:55:28 pm »

Sadly not. I love the Beatles. Have a great time at both events.

Hande · « **Reply #269 on:** September 11, 2017, 06:35:29 pm »

Bulwark support enforcement pieces are in place - up to this point without the snap

You may be able to see how I filled gaps with sheets of plasticard. I found it easier than finding/making thin sheets of wood.
It was a random thought that I really hope I'm not going to regret

I tried to eliminate the risk of snapping by using PU glue, supposedly very strong and good with almost any material.

Next step is to unbend the bow and stern pieces of the bulwark to better match the required shape (see reply #245).

Hande · « **Reply #270 on:** September 14, 2017, 03:46:39 pm »

Witness one happy model boat builder, here

After all my bending and unbending the bulwarks fit nicely.

The plan is to mark the bulwark knees' positions, mask and paint before installations.
Bow and stern ends first, sides after.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #271 on:** September 14, 2017, 07:49:00 pm »

Those bulwarks look pretty smart Josse

Hande · « **Reply #272 on:** September 14, 2017, 07:59:48 pm »

Thanks for sharing my happy moment with me, ballastanksian

bfgstew · « **Reply #273 on:** September 14, 2017, 08:02:32 pm »

Certainly worth the effort, they have come out pefectly....

Stewart

Capt Podge · « **Reply #274 on:** September 14, 2017, 08:59:03 pm »

Looking good Hande, very neat work indeed.

....don't forget to seal / prime the bulwarks before top coating, otherwise the wood grain will show through - no need to ask me how I know this...

Regards,

Ray.

News:

Author Topic: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug (Read 190670 times)