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[Subculture]

Hi,

I don't personally own a Galathee, just had some good feedback on the kit and I think it's a very good model for a newcomer to the hobby as it's very complete, compact and reasonably priced.

If you want to have a look at the Galathee performing click on this link-

http://www.lecma-rc.com/Files_produits/comp3.avi

Any boat this short, with a steerable kort nozzle is going to be very nimble. The only thing that will better this is individual thrusters, which complicates things and raises the cost.

Andy

[periscope]

Hi Both - thanks for the info on the cost Darran - on their web site the sub is shown as not available but this must just be a temporary stock problem.

Thanks for the info you put on Subculture - I can't get the video to work at the moment I'm just getting flashing blobs but I'll try again later.

Cheers,

Ian.

[sheerline]

Hi Portside, I personally fit the M/tronics s/c and normally fit the newer Viper model but I would imagine your 15 would work ok. There are two reasons why I use these units, 1- they are very compact and therefore don't use up to much airspace within the dive unit and 2- I have found them to be very reliable. If your s/c has a small electronic component attached to the outside of its case, this is the BEC which as you are probably aware, supplies the regulated voltage to power your radio gear. Make sure this is firmly attached and can't fall off as it needs the contact with the metal heat sink of the controllers casing to prevent it overheating. If this has been detached, I recommend you fit it to a remote heat sink (thin piece of aluminiun plate) with a nut and bolt to give it something to dump its waste heat into. You may have to extend the wires to enable you to do this. The later Viper model has the BEC built inside the case and does not suffer from this early model problem. As an added improvement, the BEC has been uprated to 1.5 Amps to enable it to cope with the number of sevos and add on's found in subs.
I don't know why someone has fitted the item to the front plate of your unit, it looks like some kind of mod... perhaps used to bring the aerial out of the dive unit. Suitably seal it up so it can't leak, perhaps fill it with silicone rubber and forget about it. Your aerial is best run from the RX, through the central ballast tank tube and into the motor compartment. The remaining aerial wire can be neatly bundled and attached to the aft servo tray by drilling two holes either side of your bundle and running a plastic tie-wrap through and around to secure the surplus wire. Although shortning odf aerials is sacrilage in my book as it reduces range, you will find you have more than adequate signal strength for the range at which subs are used providing you are in freshwater. If you use this boat in saltwater, the radio signal will be lost when you dive... even on a fully extended aerial.
Sorry, I have run on a bit here but hope it's useful info for you.
By the way, I would say you have an early boat there judging by the pics.
Regards....... Chris

[portside II]

Thanks Chris all your info is well received as i don't want to get it wrong  :'( when i take her down (so to speak) to the pond ,i want her to come up dry on the inside  .
I normally use electronize as i find them very reliable and easy to operate and the M/tronics ,not used them much so cant comment although a fellow mayhemer has smoked a few of them and this has happened for no apparent reason but thats another topic .
I will try the new viper 15 or maybe a 20 as they are a bit smaller than the electronize .
As for the hole ?? as i have no use for it i will like you say ,bung it with silicone and forget it ,is there a big difference with the early wtc and the later ones apart from what i have seen in the ballast tanks ,plastic v steel
The other thing is ,decorating  :) i have seen pics of another Trafalgar with the blue paint work and this got me thinking  ::) what about a cold war type striped tiger  effect  in shades of blue  i have seen this design o early German u boats  .
Don't worry i can take it be honest/gentle  :angel:

[sheerline]

Hi Daz, if you go down the M/Troniks route and decide to buy one dedicated for your sub, use the 25Amp Viper SSR. It is very robust and as is not heavily loaded in these subs. The earlier M/Troniks s/cs only had a 1Amp BEC and were hard pressed to cope with four servos, an RX,a self leveller and their own electronic circuit demand so this might have accounted for the occasional failure but that seems to be a thing of the past with the SSR.

The dive units remain virtually unchanged  and the stainless ballast tank version is only used on the Type 2D. I have however made small detail changes such as an improved positive terminal for the battery which now has a gold connector and rubber bellows which fit on to a new corresponding terminal post on the front of the unit so 'gone' is the old silicone bung and spade design. I also fit a modified tyre valve to the end cap to enable you to lightly pressurise the dive unit. This helps avoid any misting of the end caps when the unit is plunged into icy water and also helps with the effects of duff seals or maladjusted driveshaft glands. NOTE: This is not a cure for the latter but serves to indicate their failure!) The seals on your boat don't look too bad by the way but if you have any doubts, a new set only cost a tenner.

As for colour schemes, these things were always black and I know they are referred to as 'They big black b--st-rds' by the locals around the Scottish Lochs who see them come and go from time to time. The blue pattern colour scheme is often used by modellers to break up the blackness and is very peculiar in the way it has been laid out. I have been informed by submariners from these ship that this was in fact only an experiment and was applied to only one or two vessels in the fleet. Perhaps someone out there could enlighten us further on this one.

Beware the 'Mickey Mouse' patterned schemes you mentioned as you may become an object of ridicule at the lakeside !!     
Chris
 

[portside II]

I take it you have not seen the rest of my fleet (just in case anyone else out there decides to mention it i got in first ha!) .
The suggestion of the 25 ssr is welcome and one will be purchased asap ,not gone down the route of the self leveller as of yet ,maybe later,how much£££.
the thought of fitting a tyre valve to the wtc where that thing is has crossed my mind rather than just bunging it up ,what do you think ? .
But back to the colour schemes ,i was thinking of a more subtle approach not too offensive :)
daz

[periscope]

As if I would ........  :angel:

[sheerline]

Hi Daz, if you want to stick a tyre valve in place of that 'fitting', it will foul the back end of the battery so forget that. I usually fit them somewhere in the backplate of the unit, usually between the two control rods. The valve I modify is threaded 6mm and if you cannot drill and then tap the backplate to accomodate it, you will need to fix it using a nut on the inside.
As for self levellers, they cost £40-00 and if you decide to fit one, you would'nt regret it as the boat can go hands off at periscope depth.
As you sound quite keen to re-paint the boat with a different colour scheme.....what about DAGLO ORANGE??? Just think, you will never lose sight of it, you will be able to see it underwater very easily and you will have a sub that you can pass on to your grandchildren in your will........cos you will never sell it to anyone!!!  
Joking aside, a black satin finish spray can from the auto shop will cover that boat completely with a light coat and it should set it off quite nicely.
Chris

[portside II]

Day-glo orange  now that's a colour for the robbie seawolf 
Satin black sounds about right ,oh is the resin on the hull the same colour all the way through (black) as we have a mariner on the pond who likes running into the bank as well as other boats and i would'nt want the nice paint scratched off my sub by the shrauds of plastic from his ,shh riverman shh you know the fellow Ian  .
I will get the sub in the water first and then see about the valve  ok Chris ..
daz

[sheerline]

Hi Daz, the hull is polyester resin and is moulded in black so any wayward tendencies on the part of the captain should'nt result in any obvious scuffs and scrapes showing through! If you need to remove paint from the hull, be careful if you sand it down as you may remove some of the surface detail. Depending on the type of original paint used, you may find it will disolve and wash off using cellulose thinners, a bit messy but if you use it, the hull plastic will not react so you have no fear of damaging it with such a solvent. Just make sure you do it outside in the fresh air and not in a confined space!

As your boat is already constructed you only need  go through the dive unit section of the manual and give it a good read, you will find it all very simple and straightforward. I have a tendency to be very 'wordy' and my friend usually critises me for it but I have to word these thing so the absolute novice can easily understand it. There are a lot of hints and tips to help you in there.
Good luck with it all....... Chris

[portside II]

cheers Chris  any probs and i will give you a shout.
daz