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[frogman3]

WELL  HI ALL well got all 4 motors running ok from my BECC esc x2 AN thought id cured the motor problem but if i leave it in its present configureration it all ok but i was hopein to have a cutoff switch fitted in the system so i could just cutoff the back motors an sail on the outboard motors but yes the back two motors cut off how they should but when i release the cutoff the ECS wont come back online so no back motors only way i can get the ESC TO come back online is to switch off the main switch then i suppoce the esc goes back online again is there anyone can tell me how to get around this ?
chrisb

[philk]

You could try putting the esc for the back motors on a different channel and just throttle them back

[frogman3]

You could try putting the esc for the back motors on a different channel and just throttle them back

HI Philk thanks for your reply an really its not a solution to my prob as i dont really want two throttles an if i just throttle back the back motors back a bit then they are still usein power which is the whole point of the cut off switch to cut power completely to give me more sailin time but cheers for your suggetion thanks sir 
CHEERS 
chrisb

[JimG]

Does your transmitter have the option of mixing 2 channels? If so try putting the rear and front motors on seperate channels then use a mixer to connect them. Put the front motors on the throttle stick then use a switched mixer to add the rear motors. This way you can switch off the mix when you only want one pair running.
Jim

[Colin Bishop]

Why do you need to switch off the back motors. If you want to slow down or use less power then easing off on the throttle should do the job - or is there another problem?

Colin

[frogman3]

Does your transmitter have the option of mixing 2 channels? If so try putting the rear and front motors on seperate channels then use a mixer to connect them. Put the front motors on the throttle stick then use a switched mixer to add the rear motors. This way you can switch off the mix when you only want one pair running.
Jim

IH Jim sorry new t/x an very poor instructions so i dont know about this
chrisb

[frogman3]

Why do you need to switch off the back motors. If you want to slow down or use less power then easing off on the throttle should do the job - or is there another problem?

Colin

HI Colin why i wanted to cut out the back motors was to give more sailin time running on just two motors instead of 4 motors an if the wind gets up an not enough power then i could just hit the switch to go back to 4 motors hows that but it wont work on these BECC esc so i'll have to forget it thanks for your reply
atb
chrisb

[Colin Bishop]

Chris,

Just slowing down on 4 motors will increase your sailing time. If you were to switch to two motors then they would have to work harder to maintain the same speed. Basicaly you only have a fixed amount of power in your battery. The amount you use will depend on how many motors you are running and how fast they are going.

So four motors going at half speed will be roughly equal to two motors going at full speed and use the same amount of power. (and so on down the speed scale).

Also, if you cut two motors out then the props will become a drag on the hull and the remaining motors will have to work harder to overcome it. So it is best in most cases to run all four motors all the time and use the throttle stick to control the speed. The slower you go the longer the battery will last.

A final point - if you have a single rudder thn the inner motors will improve the steering of the model as the wash from the props is likely to hit the rudder blade and help turn the boat.

Colin

[frogman3]

Chris,

Just slowing down on 4 motors will increase your sailing time. If you were to switch to two motors then they would have to work harder to maintain the same speed. Basicaly you only have a fixed amount of power in your battery. The amount you use will depend on how many motors you are running and how fast they are going.

So four motors going at half speed will be roughly equal to two motors going at full speed and use the same amount of power. (and so on down the speed scale).

Also, if you cut two motors out then the props will become a drag on the hull and the remaining motors will have to work harder to overcome it. So it is best in most cases to run all four motors all the time and use the throttle stick to control the speed. The slower you go the longer the battery will last.

A final point - if you have a single rudder thn the inner motors will improve the steering of the model as the wash from the props is likely to hit the rudder blade and help turn the boat.

Colin

OK Colin i'll leave all 4 motors going then an try an fit a rachet on the throttle as on my T/X its so easy to push up to flat out an many thanks for your info on my probs but had all 4 motors going today so i think I'm getting over my probs CHEERS SIR
chrisb

[John W E]

Hi there


I think understanding of the speed controllers and how they work may help.


Basically, modern day speed controllers they rely on feedback from your transmitter to set up the internals of the speed controller.  So,  basically when you switch the speed controller on and then switch the transmitter on - the speed controller looks for the centre position of your stick.   Also to complicate things more, inside the speed controller, keeping it very simple - your power supply from the transmitter to the speed controller and from your speed controller to your motor is all connected.


This is why you are having problems.


So, if you put a switch in between your battery and the speed controllers - it is interfering with the signal that is coming from your receiver.  The next thing I think you should be looking at is a mixer if you haven't one fitted already.   The type that slow down the outside props when turning, as you will find if you don't have your props turning in the right direction; Steamboat Phil will be after your model for straight running    .   Take note about what Colin Bishop has said about the props turning inboard towards the rudder.


My experience of this was with my model of HMS Ajax; even though I had all the fancy mixers and whatnot fitted - I had the props fitted in the wrong direction and everyone thought it was just a free running model    .  It refused to turn.


Good luck as they say, Happy sailing 

[frogman3]

Hi there


I think understanding of the speed controllers and how they work may help.


Basically, modern day speed controllers they rely on feedback from your transmitter to set up the internals of the speed controller.  So,  basically when you switch the speed controller on and then switch the transmitter on - the speed controller looks for the centre position of your stick.   Also to complicate things more, inside the speed controller, keeping it very simple - your power supply from the transmitter to the speed controller and from your speed controller to your motor is all connected.


This is why you are having problems.


So, if you put a switch in between your battery and the speed controllers - it is interfering with the signal that is coming from your receiver.  The next thing I think you should be looking at is a mixer if you haven't one fitted already.   The type that slow down the outside props when turning, as you will find if you don't have your props turning in the right direction; Steamboat Phil will be after your model for straight running    .   Take note about what Colin Bishop has said about the props turning inboard towards the rudder.


My experience of this was with my model of HMS Ajax; even though I had all the fancy mixers and whatnot fitted - I had the props fitted in the wrong direction and everyone thought it was just a free running model    .  It refused to turn.


Good luck as they say, Happy sailing 


HI John no have no mixer fitted as tiger is complex enough now for me anyway an yes props turning inwards to help rudder control an i need to have switch in between the bat an esc 's as they the fans on them dont stop till i switch it all off so they would be goin all the while till i took off the s/s an disconect the batt leads
thank you jOHN for the info very helpfull
cheers to you sir
chrisb

[frogman3]

HI ALL well i think ive cured tigers eletric probs bar just the bow thuster an ive thought up a way to get that goin with out interferin with them BECC ESC so today i just got to tidy up the wiren that plugs into the R/X an just find out what cha 9 does as its plugged into the R/X but does not seem to do any thing as ive made out a list of all the functions but not cha 9 so on a search today to see where the wires go to what an then when done can write it down on the list an last the to make up a bob's board to work bowthruster an then should be test tank time in the wet stuff to see how she floats an check foe any leaks as the hull is already 4 yrs old so see how things go an if a succsses the maiden vouge time bob oh boy will i be neverous
chrisb

[frogman3]

HI ALL well ive today now fainaly finished the eletrics in tiger as i still had to get that bow thruster workin as when i fitted in a esc TO WORK IT then the becc esc wont work the motors so there is some kind of sensor that the becc esc picks up in the circutry an they wont work so a big headache for me an after tryin several esc 's STILL NO GO so i had a good think how i can get the bow thruster to work an not cause the becc esc to cut out an ive finally worked it out by makin a home made esc from 4 mini knock on switches an as there is no eletrics from it to the R/X for them becc esc to sence it all works perfeckly an a pic of my home made esc that now works the bow thruster left an right thrust to push the bow to where i want it in case of high winds
https://ibb.co/qB4S0kj

[frogman3]

An here the finished model of HMS TIGER C20 now she is already to go into test tank to see how she behaves eg. reagards how she sits in the water as i think she will float bow down as the wheight of all 4 servos in the bow to turn the guns turrets an guns elevation WILL result in me havin to fit some lead in her stern but will see when she is in test tank but to do this i need at least a couple of days of nice warm wheather so for now the finished model
https://ibb.co/4j1PthS
chrisb

[Capt Podge]

Hi Chris, it's good to know you've finally found a solution to the bow thruster electrical conundrum and hope all is well when you get her in the test tank.


Ray.

[frogman3]

Hi Chris, it's good to know you've finally found a solution to the bow thruster electrical conundrum and hope all is well when you get her in the test tank.


Ray.

G/M Ray an many thanks for your kind wishes on tiger an i'll get into test tank as soon as i get warmer dry wheather as i want tiger ready for june 11 th if poss as its a warship day up at norwich pond so just got to hope i can get her sorted in time but this wheather now is the problem
cheers Ray for stoppin
chrisb

[T888]

Hi Chris,


So pleased you got all your electrical problem resolved, wish you all the best with the test tank sail, just take your time check and check again and most of all be proud of what you have achieved.

[frogman3]

Hi Chris,


So pleased you got all your electrical problem resolved, wish you all the best with the test tank sail, just take your time check and check again and most of all be proud of what you have achieved.

HI Dave cheers an i will be proud if she sails ok an yes after all the eletric probs as i had more hair at the start of this build lol
chrisb

[frogman3]

HI ALL well the wheather stayed fine today so filled the test tank with water an got tiger down an on her table an just the hulls togeather with 20 pounds double batts in her an then she is in test tank an left her for half an hr an there was 6 small leaks through her stablilizers an her bow thruster an they were nothing bad just drippin in so removed the stabs an put vasalene on the shafts an then put her back in tank an that fixed the leaks im very happy to say an then fitted on her full S/S an well ? more later on an pics when ive resized the pics to load but firstly she fitted in me car just nice an here the bow section in the boot
[/size]https://ibb.co/Kjc88X8[/color]
an the stern section fitted ok on back seat ok
[/size]https://ibb.co/V2NhKmVchrisb [/font][/color]
[/size][/color]

[frogman3]

an here some shots of her in test tank
https://ibb.co/g3LbwWb
https://ibb.co/85PpkRX
https://ibb.co/f1sLLjr
https://ibb.co/g3LbwWb
https://ibb.co/y8M43Wd

next is her maiden voyouge up norwich pond on june the 11th on warship day
chrisb

[T888]

Hi Chris,


Looks to be well trimmed, I assume the 6 leaks were fixed with no major issues?

[frogman3]

Hi Chris,


Looks to be well trimmed, I assume the 6 leaks were fixed with no major issues?

HI Dave yes they were leakin just drips through the stabilizers an an tiny drop through the bow thruster an i widrew them an fitted on vasealene an the bow thruster i just srewed it down very tightly an then no leaks but what will happen when she sails i dont know so just have to take it a step at a time i bet the prop shafts leak but as a navy guy said to me the real ships leak that why they have pumps in the bilges so its doin the real thing lol
chrisb

[frogman3]

HI ALL forgot to put on this shot of tigers full lenght inship eletronics
https://ibb.co/zFHWzB4

[Sealord]

 
 Hi Mate,  ship looking brilliant on test tank, she'll look brilliant on the pond !
The figures bring it to life a bit ,,
I hope i get to see it sail on warship day...


 Dave,,

[frogman3]

 
 Hi Mate,  ship looking brilliant on test tank, she'll look brilliant on the pond !
The figures bring it to life a bit ,,
I hope i get to see it sail on warship day...


 Dave,,

HI M8 THANK YOU an yes so do i
chrisb