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[Beagle1831]

Hi everyone


Has anyone got any thoughts on a good material to use for the canvas screens around the guard rails on ships? I was thinking masking tape but not sure if the glue would dry out over time & peel off.


Thanks


James

[raflaunches]

Hi James


I followed Dave Wooley’s HMS Skirmisher build with regards to this detail and I’ve used it on my Invincible build and so far it’s behaved itself. I used superglue for any stubborn bits that refused to stay stuck but water downed PVA brushed on to the masking tape has worked for me.

[roycv]

Hi I am not sure what scale you are dealing with but for a model I have at 1 : 43 scale I used some metal gauze that I think came from Halfords fibre glass kits.  It looks very good against the stanchions.
I have tried some of the plastic but it does not glue or stay in place.
regards
Roy

[NickelBelter]

I've used masking tape and brown wrapping paper to make some canvas covers.  The wrapping paper turned out better IMHO. 
Tape:

Paper:

In both cases I sealed them with thin cyanoacrylate glue.

[Beagle1831]

Thanks for the suggestions! Will have to do some tests. Soaking the glue in to keep it all in place sounds like a good plan.

[dodes]

When I applied a canvass dodger assimilation, I used fine cotton , cut to shape to just touch the top rail and then super glue it in place, then paint it grey afterwards, did once considered trying to stitch afterwards to make it look like seizing lanyards round the top rail but bulked at it as too fiddly for me after a lifetime at sea and drinking heavily with shipmates my hands are now too shakey. 

[nemesis]

I use fine lawn handkerchiefs, just do not tell the wifey, nemesis

[RST]

I've seen masking tape used effectively over the years. Probably not the cheap stuff as it tends to dry like you said rather than good stuff which seems to stick harder if not removed.  I've also used thick aeromodellers tissue paper as mock canvas before (it's much coarser than normal tissue paper).  Has a nice texture, can be cut and folded etc without tearing or distorting and after sealing with dope or polyurethane alternatives can work quite nicely. Paints up well. And if you dry brush it after it seems to weather up like canvas.  Probably more than a dozen ways to do it depending what's to hand.

[big_bri]

I use spectacle wipes, they have a nice texture, are strong and take paint and glue well.

[Beagle1831]

Thanks again for the ideas everyone. And nice to see the photos of those two warship models!

[785boats]

I use bits of an old cotton kakhi coloured work shirt, brushed with some thinned pva glue.
Here's some on my sub chaser.

[dodes]

Must remember that system next time i have to do it, simple and looks realistic.

[ballastanksian]

I used the technique Dave Wooley used on the stern bandstand on my destroyer and it worked well. I used Tamiya masking tape which is a good product.16mm (I think) gives you plenty for folding over and adjustments for odd shaped areas. Naturally, if I have the option I will go for anti spall padding!

[RST]

Wow, forum search could not find this for love nor money but I got back as I knew I said something before.

Thought I could contribute again following a very long (like 10 year procrastination) on putting a canvas top on the flybridge of by Sangesetia PX II.  Not canvas "screen"s but a canvas sun cover but I guess the principles are similar?

• I realised I had an old but unused £2 pillowcase so no ned to iron anything
  Cut a square and painted it up with Deluxe Eze-Kote (the more I use this stuff the more I realise it is mostly just polurethane varnish).  Painting it with this helped me make sure no frayed edges and made it stiff
  Layed the sheet over the parts, drew a few lines.  Allowed for folding over edges as a seam
  Cut everything out, appied it for fit then because it was stiff I could use a ruler an create sharp edges to fold-back for the edges.  I used Bison multi-purose cement to glue the seams back on themselves
  Because the material was quite stiff by now I measured out and drew on puncture holes for the securing ties
  Painted the lot with a thinned down mix of Revell enamel white (not much patience for Humbrol in this household these days!)
  Re-punched the original holes to make them stand out a bit clearer
  Started threading the centre ridge with 0.75mm thread from Caldercraft (a bit thick bt that's what I had along with a really big needle)
  Worked on each side outside in same way, and try to not distort the original frame
  At the end, painted averything underneath with Vallejo polyurethane varnish to try and seal all the threads and the knots

...I don't thnk it was too bad as a first attempt rather than a simulation of a canvas cover but it's 1:24 scale though so a bit bigger than allot of models I guess and at 100x200'odd mm it was big enough not to faff with masking tape or laquered card etc.  It's not so tidy or perhaps underneath, but nobody will see it so it's OK by me!  Save for paint drying it's 2 or 3hrs work at the very most.

Hope the attached pics help.  This worked OK -looks passable at 3 feet and nobody will ever see it at much less than 10 feet.  Worked OK for me but the thread and my needle used are quite big -just what I had.  I'd like to do this for the whole back deck but gulp ant the chance of pulling it off this neat and tidy again!

Richard

PS: sorry, I can not get bullet point lists to work right on this post -not doing anything different from usual but it is not working now.