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[JimG]

It looks like that gyro is what is termed a rate gyro, these are intended to reduce any movement but not correct it. You need a heading hold gyro, this senses the level position on startup and will try and correct any movement away from this, once releveled it centers the controls. These are generally used by helicopters especially on the tail rotor and are less useful on fixed wing unless they are doing certain aerobatic manouvers. Many of the more expensive gyros have the option of switching between rate and heading hold setrtings.
Jim

[Dan]

Dan thanks for reply, problem with  that gyro it simply gives a kick to the offending part, I had hoped for something more proportional so that as the hull rights itself the gyro reasserts itself, maybe someone reading this might know more.  using one servo could you not put and arm on it so that as gyro kicks in it pushes one forward and pulls the other back ?


Bob

Right sorry Bob I'm with you know and understand what you mean. I was under the impression that this unit would correct the movement in a proportional way. But as Jim has pointed out this isn't the case. So I may have to look at a plan B. Thanks for the info Jim, I feel as though you've saved me alot of frustration trying to make something work that won't 

[ballastanksian]

Were there once electro mechanical (or even just mechanical) stabilisers available using a pendulum and linkages to the stabilisers? I suppose that would just impart another wobble!

[tweety777]

Were there once electro mechanical (or even just mechanical) stabilisers available using a pendulum and linkages to the stabilisers? I suppose that would just impart another wobble!

If that would be true no one would use such a system. These systems really only have 2 possible outcomes: either they work or they make things worse, when it makes things worse the stabilizers need to be connected the other way around. Only downside of this system is that it needs waterflow to be able to actually have effect for obvious reasons. And the pendulum would need to be made just heavy enough to move the stabilizers (easy enough when the pendulum is connected to a sensor), so it's effect will not be noticable when at anchor or at the dock. The weight of these pendulums should not be so much that it really makes a difference in the weight of the ship. Mount it as low as possible and it will effect the stability even less, since the height above the center of gravity also has quite an impact on the stability. For example, a weight of 500gr at the bottom against the side of the hull can have hardly any effect at all where as the same weight at the same horizontal position but then as high up as possible might even be able to make the ship capsize. Mind you, if that weight is hanging in the crane the location of the weight becomes irrelevant, only the location where the hoisting wire last makes contact with the ship.


Greetings Josse

[John W E]

hi there, I don't know if this will help at all - but - I used the same Orange Giro Unit - which has been mentioned in a previous thread on here.   I used this in HMS Lindisfarne to operate the stabilisers on her.   There is a selection where you can switch and it just operates as a sole unit or, as I have it, wired up through a Y lead to the rudder servo.  Therefore, when the rudder is operated and the boat lists the stabilisers work and adjust accordingly.


Picture of the internals of Lindisfarne.


Hand on heart - are they worth it?   Alright (in my opinion) as a gimmick.


John

[Ralph]

Were there once electro mechanical (or even just mechanical) stabilisers available using a pendulum and linkages to the stabilisers? I suppose that would just impart another wobble!

Early sub auto levellers used a fore and aft pendulum with an optical sensor recording its movement.  The output from the sensor went to some electronics which in turn operated a servo which moved the rear dive planes . I still have one somewhere but no idea if it works.


Ralph

[Geoff]

If I remember correctly they were called "Salcons"


Cheers


Geoff

[frogman3]

HI Dan anything happening on her ?
chrisb

[Dan]

Hi all,


Not much to report Chris, feels like I've done alot, but just more repetitive work cutting all the openings up in the hull. Now I'm planning the easiest way to fix all the individual decks in place.


Cheers,


Dan

[frogman3]

Hi all,


Not much to report Chris, feels like I've done alot, but just more repetitive work cutting all the openings up in the hull. Now I'm planning the easiest way to fix all the individual decks in place.


Cheers,


Dan

OK Dan but she's lookin good with the apertures cutout
hope your family are all ok
chrisb

[Dan]

Yes all good thank you Chris! Constantly trying to find those few minutes to slip away to the garage to get a bit more done on ocean. Hope you and Jen are keeping well!


Cheers!

[ballastanksian]

They would be like side ways tubs, so I would make them from five bits of plastic with well roughed up edges and outer lips to allow the glue and any filler to adhere them to the hull.

[Dan]

Never looked at them like that until now, thanks for the idea!

[frogman3]

HI Dan whats happening on her then ?
chrisb

[Dan]

Hi Chris,


Not much change at the moment. Although the bow thruster has been roughly fitted and I'm toying with the layout of the electrical components. Other than that slow progress at the moment I'm afraid. Here's how she is currently...

[frogman3]

Hi Chris,


Not much change at the moment. Although the bow thruster has been roughly fitted and I'm toying with the layout of the electrical components. Other than that slow progress at the moment I'm afraid. Here's how she is currently...

HI Dan lookin at your motors what are you goin to have belt drive on them ? an are them batts 12 v 12amh ? as they are what i have in my Tiger an plenty of power an good ballast to get that big hull down in the water
chrisb
chrisb

[Dan]

Hi Chris,


I'm going to try running a 2:1 ratio. If I'm not happy with it I'll have a play about changing the ratio to see how it performs. And yes 12v 12ah batteries for the ballast and plenty of running time. Although it's already a heavy ship, I'll definitely have to look at building a trolley.
At the moment I'm Looking for the correct red under the waterline. Any suggestions? I used red oxide primer on my frigate with some good coats of lacquer. This time I'd rather use a harder paint.


Cheers, Dan

[frogman3]

Hi Chris,


I'm going to try running a 2:1 ratio. If I'm not happy with it I'll have a play about changing the ratio to see how it performs. And yes 12v 12ah batteries for the ballast and plenty of running time. Although it's already a heavy ship, I'll definitely have to look at building a trolley.
At the moment I'm Looking for the correct red under the waterline. Any suggestions? I used red oxide primer on my frigate with some good coats of lacquer. This time I'd rather use a harder paint.


Cheers, Dan

HI Dan well ive always use the car red oxide paint an yes it does chip off but i soon touch it up maybe a red gloss paint may be better better
for your use an satisfaction ?
chrisb

[Geoff]

I always use Humbrol, matt red wine no 73 as it gives a deeper red which I think looks more realistic. Then sometimes a matt or satin varnish on top for extra protection.


Cheers


Geoff

[John W E]

hi there


I have used Humbrol No. 70 Brick Red overcoated with Satin varnish and this seems to have stood the test of time on a few models.


In the past I have used White Ensign paints, however, I note they are now based over in the USA now - not sure of the prices of paint/postage to the UK would be - but they have Hull Red paint.


John

[Dan]

Thank you all. I’ll look at these options. I think Matt will give it a more accurate look. What ever option I go for will be lacquered over. 

[gingyer]

White ensign paints are now sovereign hobbies
https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/


I have bought stuff from them and found them easy to use.
I would recommend them but you need to
Read the instructions for application as you will need to thin the paint.

[frogman3]

AN HI again Dan been lookin at the pic of your eletrics an notice you have 3 ESC'S now what is there two  ESC'S to work your motors an one to work your bowthruster yea ? an are they all BEEC ? as i had qiute a bit of problems with these BEEC ESC'S so i hope you get on ok with them
 
chrisb

[Dan]

Hi Chris, yes one for each motor, and one for the bow thruster. And yes all BEC. Not had a set up like this before so it's a first for me. I will let you know how I get on. Unfortunately I've not been able to work on it for a few weeks now. Hopefully over Christmas I'll be able to get stuck in again.


Cheers, Dan

[frogman3]

Hi Chris, yes one for each motor, and one for the bow thruster. And yes all BEC. Not had a set up like this before so it's a first for me. I will let you know how I get on. Unfortunately I've not been able to work on it for a few weeks now. Hopefully over Christmas I'll be able to get stuck in again.


Cheers, Dan

ok Dan lookin forward to more of this an hope you get on ok with them ole becc esc as to me they were an are a pita
chrisb