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[Vts99]

hi everyone , im currently fitting the rudders to the hull of my fleetscale semi kit and just wondering if anyone has tips on fitting them.


it looks like once i fit the lower deck there will not be a lot of clearance to fit the tiller arms so any advice is much appreciated


many thanks


graeme

[T888]

Hi,


First tip is do not seal the quart deck down until you 100% happy with the rudder post alignment, linkage and servo. Also your happy with it working. Second tip mount the servo where you can access it if you ever need to replace it with out having to remove the quart deck or flight deck.


I always fit the rudder post in a wooden block, this gives the post a good fixing to the hull.




May be worth you looking at my 1/96 Type 26 build thread.( page 2 near the bottom) or my 1/96 Arliegh Burke Destroyer

[Colin Bishop]

I always incorporate access to the rudder head, if necessary using a flush hatch. A basic rule should be to always provide for servicing the rudder and tiller.

Rudders sometimes hit things and become misaligned. If you have sealed the rudder stock in the stern of the model then you will have to cut the deck away to access it. It is all part of the philosophy that whatever you install into a model must be able to come out for servicing. A lot of people ignore this rule and suffer as a result.

Colin

[Backerther]

In some examples of mine, first pic shows pla-model conversion to RC model of 1/72 HMCS Snowberry.
I cut the deck out to make a service hatch.
The rest show 1/96 HMS Fencer under construction, every part of the hull is fully accessible for maintenance.
Needless to say, even the flight deck is detachable for a serviceable model ship on the water.

[warspite]

another train of thought is a removable deck, but internally the stern is made into a space that can be allowed to flood, i.e. water ingress is allow as a bulkhead before the stern is fitted with all the delicate parts behind that, bit like a submarine.

[Backerther]

I do not mind of that point.!!
All the openings were covered with many hatches. The above pics are the conditions under construction only.
In the final stage, the large vertical opening in the bulkhead was covered with a sheet to be detachable.
The delicate forward and afterward frameworks are one-piece style construction for easy maintenance.
The water does not normally come up to level of the rear or fore decks in the normal lake conditions because of a bit high free board unlike my 1/32 PT-109 whch is normally flooded with water during the sailing time even on a calm water.

[John W E]

hi there, one of the tricks I have used, especially on HMS Norfolk when I rebuilt her for access to the rudder posts is - on the flight deck - there is a circular landing spot painted on the deck - and I have cut through this and made it into a hatch - so it is camouflaged in with the white paint of the circle.   It just gives enough room to give access to the rudder posts and linkage.  It is a bit of a faff but I can managed to put an allen key in the hole and tighten up the grub screws on the linkages.  The servo is in the main part of the superstructure, underneath the helicopter hanger along with the motors and so forth.   Couple of pics - and you can see the circle on the flight deck.  Also, have a look closely and you will see the rudder servo.


As an after thought (but I don't have a picture of the type 23's) I also use what is known as a closed linkage loop steering system.  This helps eliminate failures. 

[Vts99]

Hi many thanks to everyone , your advice and pictures has been great so will hopefully have it sorted later tonight and I can finally get top deck on