TWEAKING GLOW ENGINES
Once the engine is run in ( say an hour or so of low speed cruising) you can start to tune your boat for maximum speed. Set yourself a standard run like the bottom two buoys of the multi 'm' course or any two fixed points and time how long it takes your boat to lap them. It's easier to check the speeds of the boat against the clock than by judging by eye. The optimum speed is going to be a compromise of straight line speed, cornering ability, water conditions, fuel type, engine type and prop size. First adjust the needle valve little by little until the boat is running your course in the shortest time. Now change the propeller for a slightly larger or courser pitched one and start the whole process again. Repeat until the boat is going as fast as it possibly can or you are happy with it. Make a written note of the needle valve setting, prop size and fuel type so it can be easily repeat the set-up next weekend. Don't try to run too small a prop that lets the engine scream as it won't scream for very long!
At the end
of a successful days boating, switch everything off ( receiver
first), drain down the
fuel tank, remove the plug, squirt a little oil into the carb
and spin the engine over to protect it from harm until the next
outing. You can buy specialist 'after run oil' for this
purpose if you want to but I just use
3-in-1. Load the car with all the gear and make sure
you've got everything and take any rubbish home with you.
the wife what a invigorating time you had -
wives you just listen to your husbands with total apathy!
Most IC engine don't seem to need any sort of maintenance at all. I only ever strip down an engine if there is a problem with it. "If it an't broke, don't try to fix it"!
If you are unlucky or stupid, the engine may incur some damage. As you should know by now the engine can be completely striped down, the fault located, the faulty item replaced and the engine reassembled, very rarely is an engine a write off. It's not too hard to repair an IC engine and a book on the subject will provide you with all the information you need. This task should not be taken on if you are the least bit unsure of yourself and a shop or repair specialist will handle the work for you. Someone in the local club often able to do a cheaper job than a shop but make sure he's proficient. Ask if you can watch him work on the engine so you handle your own repairs in future. As long as you are only replacing parts and not doing modifications, you should have no problems - if you can get the parts.....
It's always recommend putting all the radio gear in a watertight box, no
matter how well you seal the fuel lines and exhaust system, oil and
gunk always seems to find it's way out of the engine and into the rest of
the boat and head for the radio box. If you boat
is prone to taking on water you can fit an autobailer. Two types
I know about are the
floating ball and the syphon. The first type is
prone to getting clogged up and the second produces drag, but
at least you have the option.
Ball type Autobailer
SAFETY - SAFETY
Glow fuel burns with an almost invisible flame so no smoking while fueling up your boat. Remember that IC engines get hot, when you forget, an angry exhaust pipe will quickly remind you. Marine and air propeller are very sharp and can take a finger off without even slowing down or at least can give you a permanent scar. Have a first-aid kit handy at all times, at home and by the lake, just in case you have a really bad day. Be careful of the water to because if it's polluted and gets into the body, say through a cut, the consequences can be very serious. Have fun but take care.
And that's all there is to it. Look after your motive power and they will last a long time. I have tried to cover all the basics so a lot of it may be seem brief but there is more details in the review of my various boats. If I've missed something glaringly obvious out, then email me and I will ask somebody else that knows what they are talking about!
Well all of this is just my opinion, but what do I know!